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Collinster742002

Where to apply RTV on a 2002 engine?

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I'm in the process of entirely re-gasketing my new (to me) '75 2002 motor with the exception of the head gasket, which appears to have been changed. So basically front seal, Rear Main seal, exhaust studs, distributor housing gasket, timing cover gaskets, rear crankcase seal that goes behind the RMS carrier, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and the oil filter housing gasket (I'm probably forgetting some)

Where, if any of these, should I apply RTV silicone? I did the distributor housing on the old engine with just the gasket and never had a leak.

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Guest Anonymous

There are very few places where BMW recommended gasket sealer originally. If your parts are straight (not tweaked or scratched up from a previous re-build attempt, and you didn't have leaks before, I would stick with the original directions to put some non-hardening gasket sealer at the intersection if the timing case covers and head and valve cover gaskets and assemble everything else dry.

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Yep. I just recently reassembled my brand new engine and, as per Steve @ TEP's advice, I only put a dab at the intersection where the timing covers/head/block meet... 130 miles and she's still dry...:-)

Good luck!

Stephen

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I put it only on the timing cover corners. But you could do it how my diesel truck is put together. RTV everything! Not shitting you the only thing not RTV'd is the intake and exhaust manifolds. As long as you use something like Permatex orange you'll be fine. But my 02 motor is fairly dry on just gaskets alone.

So really it all comes down to the engine builder and the engine. I'd say if you wanna be conservative like the others mentioned just do the corners of the timing cover and you'll be OK

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I used yamabond on that oil pan. A crappy job to do with the motor in the car. I believe Autozone sells RTV Gray which is the same as yamabond.

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valve cover gasket ..... I have always used wheel bearing grease, that way the gasket is not damaged when removing the cover to adjust the valves. The gasket can be re-used many times.

Cheers,

Carl

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EVERYWHERE!!!!

Ok, not really. RTV is NOT gasoline friendly. My brother just found that out the hard way, after "fixing" His Rambler's tank.

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What everyone else said.

My rule of thumb is to put it on any crack-

like where the oil pan crosses the timing cover and rear oil seal cover.

It doesn't take much, and things never leak after doing that.

I also use it on the valve cover gasket transition from the head

to the front cover, and if you're VERY careful the first time you pull

the cover, you can then reuse the gasket with impugnity.

I use it as an installation aid on the front and rear main seals, too.

No good reason other than it's nice and slippery, then sets up solid.

Took apart a Toyota 3FE- I had to bash the oil pan off, they'd glued it on so well.

'Course, they'd also installed the camshaft with a sledgehammer...

t

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Ahhh, the 3FE..an old Cruiser engine? I had a 74' with the F1.5 transition engine...my favorite vehicle still...wish I still had her..;-)

Stephen

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There are very few places where BMW recommended gasket sealer originally. If your parts are straight (not tweaked or scratched up from a previous re-build attempt, and you didn't have leaks before, I would stick with the original directions to put some non-hardening gasket sealer at the intersection if the timing case covers and head and valve cover gaskets and assemble everything else dry.

Everything is pretty straight on this engine, looks like it hasn't been opened up in a long time- all of the old gaskets were a major pain to get off.

I will be doing the dab of RTV at the intersections and no more.

It was by no means a "dry" engine, however..

When I picked it up:

1230121423_zps087a9387.jpg

Everything cleaned now:

0102131643b_zps9b74c4d0.jpg

I will be using the later roundel valve cover off of a junk engine I have, hopefully that will not present a source for leaks. I just like that look better. Gaskets get here Friday and engine should be going in Saturday if I have the hoist.

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....your mother is going to SHEIT! when

she sees her peach bath towels being

used for car part blankie!

0102131643b_zps9b74c4d0.jpg

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I did the same thing, dry gaskets all around. Leaked like a sieve around the front timing chain cover, so I dabbed at the corners. Still leaked. Ended up RTV'ing the whole perimeter, as well as the valve cover. No leaks anymore, but I must be doing something wrong.

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Did you torque all of the bolts correctly?

Speaking of those, does anybody know the torque specs for the RMS carrier and the Oil Filter Housing? I was unable to find those anywhere in my Haynes manual.

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Guest Anonymous

and it is important to attach the bolts in the right order. for instance, upper timing chain cover vertical bolts go in before the horizontal ones.

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I just redid my oil pan with a new gasket and RTV all round and it is leaking terribly. I'm seriously considering redoing it with a dry gasket. With the RTV, the gaskets tend to stick and move when trying to mate the surfaces.

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