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What drain plug is this? Did I mess up?


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I am in need of a new radiator/recore and when I was pulling the radiator I figured I would drain the coolant from the block as well. I loosened what I thought was the coolant drain plug only to release a tablespoon worth of oil, a spring and metal collar. (see photo) I immediately put the plug back and tightened it back up.

Also got the radiator out with no troubles. Gonna see about a recore.

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Inside the radiator:

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Ben in Denver

2000 Touring INKA 3357390

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Timing chain tensioner. If it went in the way it came out (quite likely), you're fine.

Asuuming you didn't rotate the motor while it was out. :-)

GL,

Ray

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Er, listen to this guy! ;-)

And buy a Haynes manual!

Cheers,

Ray

The timing chain tensioner piston needs to have fresh oil added and bled properly.

If not there could be some bad noises coming from an unhappy engine.

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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The coolant drain plug is up under the exhaust manifold, IIRC between the back two cylinders. It's a real bugger to get to unless you put your car up on jack stands and crawl underneath the passenger side and contort yourself up in there. I THINK it's a 17mm plug, but it's been a year since I did my cooling system overhaul.

Definitely bleed your tensioner! It's ok, no harm done. I got confused as to what that plug was too.

1974 Malaga 2002 4282899 "Little Red"

1976 Polaris 2002 2374061 "Rusty Shackleford" 

1998 Dk. Blue Volvo S70 T5 "Carlene"- 221k Miles 

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If you want to be sure it's back in right, pop the valve cover and

look down where it would protrude into the front chain cover.

It's really hard to see, but you want to make sure the 2 ears

on it straddle the timing adjuster slider.

Then, to prime it, loosen the cap on the end just a little, fill the little pocket

in the front cover with oil, and move the tensioner back and forth

with a screwdriver. When oil leaks out past the cap, you're done.

Takes 15 minutes.

If you don't, it'll often re-fill itself in driving- but it can take a while, and

the chain gets to flop around quite a bit in the meantime.

Not a big deal,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Standard issue is a 2-row ....... those vertical tubes in the core of the radiator. 3-row gives you another row, hence more surface area for cooling.

2 years ago I bought a 3-row core and had my local radiator shop do all the labor.

Checking my 2-yr-old notes, Mark Preisendorf near Oakland, CA is a BMW community contact for a 3-row core, or for a complete radiator.

as best I know, his email: silicongarage02@gmail.com

I'm sure there are other sources .....

Cheers,

Carl

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Standard issue is a 2-row ....... those vertical tubes in the core of the radiator. 3-row gives you another row, hence more surface area for cooling.

2 years ago I bought a 3-row core and had my local radiator shop do all the labor.

Checking my 2-yr-old notes, Mark Preisendorf near Oakland, CA is a BMW community contact for a 3-row core, or for a complete radiator.

as best I know, his email: silicongarage02@gmail.com

I'm sure there are other sources .....

Cheers,

Carl

What Carl says. The SG radiator is bolt in.

You can also buy an E21 radiator kit from places like Bavarian Autosport (www.bavauto.com), but they aren't "bolt in".

Good Luck. And bleed the chain tensioner.

Ken

FAQ Member # 2616

"What do you mean NEXT project?"

-- My wife.

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