engine and drivetrain Starting issues

[guitarkev66]

I have a 1975 2002 that has 63,000 original miles. I bought it last summer and the car runs great (new points,plugs,cap,rotor, wires, fuel tank). My problem is that after the engine is warm and it should start right up it takes a few cranks and a little gas peddle to get it started. I understand its carbureted but I would think that once warm it should start without having to give the gas pedal a tap or two. I pulled the top of the carburetor off and cleaned the inside out it wasn't real dirty. I also set checked the timing it was also okay. Could it be a week fuel pump, vacuum line, carb gaskets, or maybe some fine tuning adjustments to the carb? It has the original solex carburetor, which runs great but the one barrel doesn't look like it gets fuel. Is that normal? Does that side only get fuel at full throttle? I am new at these 2002's but I am learning more every day. Any advise would be appreciated.. Thank you,

[Napes]

Both my '75 and my wife's '76 start a little slower when warm. When cold they start in about 2/10th of a sec. but when warm they need to turn over a few times. I never worry about it.

Bob Napier

[scoTTlarock]

Both my '75 and my wife's '76 start a little slower when warm. When cold they start in about 2/10th of a sec. but when warm they need to turn over a few times. I never worry about it.

Bob Napier

same here. first start of the day is always immediate. startups after driving for a while are a lot slower

[napa02]

Sounds like flooding. After it has sat for about 20 min. Pop the air cleaner off and look in the carb. Is it full of gas? I had the same issue, changed to a fuel filter with a bypass valve, and an extra nipple for hooking up the factory fuel return line that was previously disconnected ( weber 38/38 ). Now we are golden, wish I did that years ago.

['76mintgrün'02]

I have a similar issue with my '76 (weber 32/36). It is slow to start when warm and there is a gasoline smell (no visible leaks). I searched and found this thread,

Thread Topic: Flooding and Hot Start

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,361719/highlight,fuel+filter+bypass+valve+fuel+return+line/

It sounds like the "filter fix" you are describing.

[guitarkev66]

WOW! great info I will try one of those filters, Thank you.....

['76mintgrün'02]

I took the advice above and installed a fuel filter with a bypass outlet. I found the return line on the frame rail and plumbed it in. I left the plastic filter in line before the fuel pump. I stated above that there were no visible leaks, but a few miles on a gravel road proved me wrong. You can see fuel stains on the manifold. I think what was happening was fuel would flood the carburetor after the engine was shut off. I see no evidence of this happening since the new filter was installed. I tried to blow through the new filter and was not able to blow through the bypass outlet if I plugged the other outlet. I suspect that this is valved so as to provide no more than 3 psi. Still starts a little slow when warm, but it seems like an improvement.

Here is a photo of the installation

http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/new%20fuel%20filter/?action=view&current=052.jpg

Tom

[7602inBrooklyn]

Thanks for the info. I have a few questions,

There is mention in the other post about this filter about installing it before the fuel pump (where I have a plastic filter now) is there a reason one way or the other?

What was the original routing of that return line? When I got my 76 a month ago that line was just hanging loose, disconnected.

[jgerock]

I have seen lots of carbureted cars with the plastic fuel filter pretty much laying directly on the intake manifold (when installed in front of the fuel pump).

Engine gets hot and boils the gas inside that line and filter (vapor lock). Try re-routing the supply line a different way.

My parents once owned a Mercury Comet from new in the mid '60's that would stall right in the middle of rush hour traffic here in NoVA. It was nick-named "the Vomit". They took it to many dealerships and repair places before a tiny shop in rural North Carolina re-routed the fuel supply line to the mechanical pump and it finally cured the problem.

['76mintgrün'02]

I put the fuel filter "way" before the pump to avoid the heat in the manifold. I share your concern about heat. The best argument I have read for putting the plastic fuel filter before the pump, as opposed to after, has to do with filter failure. If the filter is installed after the pump and springs a leak, there will be pressurized fuel spraying everywhere. If it leaks before the pump, the pump will be sucking air and fuel and a little less likely to start a fire. I kept the plastic filter in line so that I can visually inspect it for cleanliness. I figure it will do all the work and I can pretty much ignore the second one.

I have included a few more photos of the installation, including the return line connection.

http://s1082.photobucket.com/albums/j375/TomBrock/new%20fuel%20filter/

Tom