2002ti wannabe project begins

[jgerock]

I discussed my predicament with a co-worker who is a long-time Ford nut. He suggested I refrain from trying to turn the crank to get the cylinders free. His suggestion was removing the rod caps, using emery cloth on the upper cylinder walls, using a mixture of ATF/Acetone and waiting before trying to tap the pistons from below and then above. He has used this method before with old Ford V8 blocks that have sat outside. He also suggest that if I somehow decide to re-use the rods, I have them shot blasted (peened).

After a good soaking in Liquid Wrench, I removed the connecting rod caps from all (4) pistons last night, then today was able to remove pistons # 2 and 3. They came right out with light tapping from below using a shortened broom handle and hammer.

Some pics from today

Here is the # 1 piston soaking in Liquid Wrench. They are 88.97mm Mahle's.

Here are the piston/rods from cylinders # 2 and 3

Bores. You can tell where the pistons were sitting.

[GoFaSSter]

I would listen to your coworker on the ATF and acetone. It is an amazing combo for freeing stuck parts. This project is awesome.

[jgerock]

Another beautiful day here in VA.

After I put a 2nd coat of Eastwood Satin black high temp paint on the mufflers I polished the tips.

One muffler that sold to another FAQ'r (bottom one in this pic) has been wrapped in cardboard for the trip to Vintage in the trunk.

[jgerock]

After the mufflers were put away, I decided to remove the crankshaft from the engine. Once I removed the rod caps, I was easily able to turn the crank (thank goodness).

First, I used my impact gun with 30mm socket to remove the crank nut. A 3-jaw puller easily removed the front pulley, exposing the lower timing cover.

Looks like the timing chain was rubbing against the cover

This is the 2nd engine I dismantled with a master link on the timing chain.

Drive sprockets show some wear on the teeth

Crank out

Both pistons in cylinders # 1 and 4 still have not moved. I have them soaking in a solution of oil/liquid wrench/ATF now.

[markmac]

Seriously, I don't think I have ever seen that much corrosion inside an engine before - possible a flood car? (or boat anchor). Any ideas on how/why those cylinders would be so jacked with rust?

www.alpinabmw2002.com

[jgerock]

With the cylinders soaking, I decided to remove the sunroof panel to see why the passenger side does not flip up at the rear corner.

Since the headliner was already torn, I ripped it toward the rear and removed the dome light and cardboard panel.

Nasty stuff in the right rear section including some pine needles.

Dome light wiring

In order to remove the sunroof panel, you must remove (4) Phillips head screws from the (2) front guides and (4) small hex-head bolts from the (2) rear drive mechanisms after you rotate the (2) rear metal clips.

Left front guide

Left rear mechanism

The right rear mechanism on my car would not move when I cranked the handle so it must be broken. The cable moves fine.

I can pull the right rear mechanism out. The driver's side (left) will not come out.

The sunroof mechanism is so simple. Turning the handle makes the roof move back and forth. When closing, the (2) rear attachment points make contact with the the "bump" flipping up a hinged piece to bring the rear panel up flush with the roof.

Here is the driver's side cranked all the way forward and the mechanism flipped up.

The hidden rubber seal is installed this way

[M3M3]

the more you open up that engine, the worse it looks....

those conrod bearings, along with most everything else are toast!

lots of progress today Jim!

all i did was move furniture and rehab entire brake system on E30 race car.

[ray_]

"Ran when parked!"

Well, can I borrow your ecu then? ;-) E spiked again on me, too.

Cheers,

Ray (hijacking...)

the more you open up that engine, the worse it looks....

those conrod bearings, along with most everything else are toast!

lots of progress today Jim!

all i did was move furniture and rehab entire brake system on E30 race car.

[jgerock]

Seriously, I don't think I have ever seen that much corrosion inside an engine before - possible a flood car? (or boat anchor). Any ideas on how/why those cylinders would be so jacked with rust?

www.alpinabmw2002.com

Mark -

I have yet to understand why the block is so rusty, but can only guess it is from a coolant leak that happened some time ago. Still trying to decide how to word an e-mail to the PO showing them just how bad it really is. If I cannot remove the (2) pistons that remain, I may just use my tii block (but that one already has 2nd oversize pistons).

Jim

[mike472]

On the handbrake: I would just cut out the oval center part of the handbrake section as cleanly as you can, not the whole section of the tunnel. Do it from above with a dremel with cutter wheel attached. Maybe cut a nice rectangular section, something easy trim straight and fit a new piece into. Cut the same good piece from your donor car, trim it to fit and have it welded in. Much easier then cutting the tunnel.

On the engine: From the look of the cylinder pitting in the cylinders you could free up, you definitely need a rebore. Looks like it may need a substantial cut to clean up the cylinders. Maybe bigger then the biggest oversize you can get. If your chain was rubbing on the cover and the gears on the crank are shot I can only speculate that the rest of the engine is in similar poor condition and would take a major rebuild to get back to like new condition. The general level of grunge on the engine tells me it has seen long duty. Is this what you were planning on? Or a mild cleanup and honing of the cylinders and new rings and bearings? This won't be an easy one.

[jgerock]

Thanks for the advice Mike. I plan on doing an inner cut on the handbrake section after seeing what a pain it would be to cut the tunnel. Regarding the engine, I want to do a proper job of having the block bored out by a machine shop (assuming I can locate properly sized pistons). Based on the crank gears and the bores, I will probably not re-use this engine. I did hone the cylinders and re-ring the pistons in my tii engine a few years ago with good results, but the bores were in much better shape than this block.

Jim

On the handbrake: I would just cut out the oval center part of the handbrake section as cleanly as you can, not the whole section of the tunnel. Do it from above with a dremel with cutter wheel attached. Maybe cut a nice rectangular section, something easy trim straight and fit a new piece into. Cut the same good piece from your donor car, trim it to fit and have it welded in. Much easier then cutting the tunnel.

On the engine: From the look of the cylinder pitting in the cylinders you could free up, you definitely need a rebore. Looks like it may need a substantial cut to clean up the cylinders. Maybe bigger then the biggest oversize you can get. If your chain was rubbing on the cover and the gears on the crank are shot I can only speculate that the rest of the engine is in similar poor condition and would take a major rebuild to get back to like new condition. The general level of grunge on the engine tells me it has seen long duty. Is this what you were planning on? Or a mild cleanup and honing of the cylinders and new rings and bearings? This won't be an easy one.

[Kidasters]

Wow, that's an ugly engine.

If the ATF/Acetone doesn't work, fill them with CocaCola. Seriously. I've seen it work. The carbolic acid attacks the rust.

I'd give up on that block. I've got a block from a 318 M10 (an 84 I think) that I'm going to use when I do my rebuild.

[jgerock]

Figured I would pull the rest of the sunroof assembly to see the "innards".

Unfortunately, the right sunroof cable is broken. The cable itself is fine, but the plastic piece that actually moves the rear of the panel is broken.

Based on my observations, the sunroof headliner insert is the last thing you remove and the first you install on these cars. Pop it loose from the front of the metal panel and slide it all the way back in the opening.

From the inside, remove the handle screw and drive gear.

Remove the screws from the retainer rails, then the pieces (3 front, 2 long sides and 2 corner pieces).

I slid both long pieces out with the cables (even though the right one was broken).

Left cable intact

Right one broken

I cleaned up the rails using some Purple power, then tried some "00" steel wool rubbing very lightly to get rid of the gunk.

Turning over the long side pieces, I noticed what appears to be A-pillar vinyl glued to the underside.

Here is my broken right mechanism. Note it is adjustable.

Golde P/N 480 556 630

After everything is removed from the car, you can see this brown-colored "gasket"

And since no-one really bothers with this stuff, here are the Golde part numbers I recorded:

Working clockwise from left rear:

Long rail # 501 555 465

Thin insert # 501 555 547

LF corner piece # 100 553 617

LF straight section # 480 553 607

Center piece # 100 553 615

RF Straight section # 480 553 608

RF corner piece # 100 553 618

Long right rail # 501 555 466

Thin insert # 501 555 547

Left cable assembly (plastic type) # 480 556 629

Right cable assembly (plastic type) # 480 556 630

Sunroof handle # 100 416 601

Gear assembly # 100 413 611

[tjones02]

Seriously, I don't think I have ever seen that much corrosion inside an engine before - possible a flood car? (or boat anchor). Any ideas on how/why those cylinders would be so jacked with rust?

www.alpinabmw2002.com

Long leaking head gasket/cracked head with little but water in the system, put away wet with mocha in the oil. If one doesn't have the money to fix it right away and thinks they can get away with babying it a long... That's the very reason I recommend either fixing an internal coolant leak immediately or draining the cooling system, giving it an oil change, fire it up only till the oil pressure light goes out, shut it down and then put it away till you've got the money/time to fix it. Otherwise they end up looking like this. Can you tell that I've been there/seen that?

Customer...

"I keep adding coolant but it doesn't seem to leak out? What should I do?"

Me...

"Shut it down and have it towed in! Because the tow bill will be less expensive than ruining the engine."

[pierre02ti]

Congrats on the project

Great blog

Great pictures

Great details

Just giving the taste for an other resto.

But unbelievable engine!

Mine sat for 20 years and the rings were rusted solid to the block but most of the parts under and above went back in the rebuild as is.

Can't wait that you get to adjust your PHHs. As an amateur DIY mechanic, I will shure learn something about my own %* PHHs

Pierre

69ti