M20 Triple weber build x2

[AceAndrew]

The problem was that by angling them, I would have been unnecessarily introducing some real compromises to avoid a perceived compromise.  In order to set manifold high enough to clear the booster at 0-5 degrees I would have gone from a smooth arcing intake charge with two soft bends, to a series of three sharp angle changes (including an odd inverted one).  CFD showed this screwed things up quite a bit, including but not limited to, robbing a decent amount of potential power.  If I tried to address that mess by softening the angles then I ran back into booster (including tii) clearance issues.

 

No offence taken at all.----- 

 

 

Continuing to develop the DCOE system, namely the linkage.  

 

The “Easy Way Out” would be to hook a cable directly to the lever arm on the carb.  The problem with this is streetability.  Such a small radius would mean that a very small amount of pedal travel would have a very big effect on throttle angle.  Basically, the engine would behave like an on-off switch.  Fine for a race car, not so much on a street car.  I drove an M10 running dual carbs setup this way once, and grew sick of it after five minutes on the street.

 

 So as I briefly showed in the last post, I began to mock-up a top-mount linkage that incorporated a lever arm, 3/8” rod, and a cable-receiver arm.  

 

 

 

Then another problem arose, the lever arm crashes into the balancer screw at about ¾ throttle!  Going to see if I can switch to mounting the rod to the lever arm on the opposite side (and machine the node jutting off the carb body).  If that doesn’t work, I will make a longer lever arm.

 

 

 

At that point, I pulled the engine back out for the last time prior to paint.  With the help of my youngest (and his toy train) we pulled out the last remaining bits from the engine bay.

 

 

 

Now I tackled the interior sound proofing via the dry-ice method.  Didn’t go over great as the kids wanted to play inside!  The rest will come out in round two.  The great news is that there was no serious rust/rot on the floor panels!

 

Next up I’ll be taking out the headliner, removing the suspension, and get the shell up on some dollies (courtesy of Eric).

Edited May 11, 2017 by AceAndrew

[AceAndrew]

Had a good weekend.  The subframes are out and the chassis is up in the air!

 

 

Edited May 31, 2017 by AceAndrew

[Swiss 2002Tii]

On ‎1‎/‎20‎/‎2015 at 8:44 PM, AceAndrew said:

I don’t have much free time again, so this will be kind of jumbled together.  Cylinder head rebuild is finally done!  Working on another piston option that should be kind of neat (hint: involves Mahle Motorsport)!

Cylinder head rebuild (strangely this was spread out over a year-ish)

Goals: In line with everything else, going for a fun hot-rod 91octane street engine.  The idea was to port-match the exhaust ports while cleaning up both the intake and exhaust bowels.  

New parts list
-IE 284/272 dual-pattern new cam
-IE HD Rockers
-oem dual valve springs
-valve guides
-IE SS Intake Valves
-IE SS Exhaust Valves
-OEM Rocker Shafts
-Elring Upper Gasket Set
-rocker hardware+eccentrics
-OEM Oil sprayer bar
-OEM Spring retainers (top and bottom)
-OEM valve cover studs (with M30 acorn nuts) Intake Studs (with thin IE 11mm nuts)
-Allen-head exhaust studs w/ copper nuts
-Freeze plugs

Tools:
Die Grinders
6”mandrell
carbide bits
80 grit cartridge rolls
120 grit cartridge rolls
rubber hammer
Bearing, Seal, and Race Drivers Kit
wrenches/sockets

First thing was sending the head to the machinist to have the guides punched out, head checked for cracks and warping, and lastly cleaned!

Port matching the exhaust side

Pretty straight forward.  Painted the port with some trusty dykem lay-out fluid, 2)lined up a head gasket and scribed the ID with an exacto knife.







Started with a pretty beefy carbide bit,  as long as I kept it lubed it made short work of the aluminum.



Next I wanted to clean up the intake and exhaust bowels.  Mainly the casting ridges you can see here and the small edge immediately inside the short side of the port (you can feel it pretty easily when hooking your finger in there.

You can see how this was MUCH easier with the guide removed.  

Casting ridges


First pass with the carbide bit



Stepped it up to 80 grit cartridge rolls on the end of a 6” Mandrel

Ended up with a 120 grit and went ahead and polished the combustion chambers for good measure.



------------------------------------------------------------------
Next step was sending the head back to the machinist with new guides and valves.  The machinist then did a nice 3-angle valve job, punched in the new guides, and resurfaced the head.



Before dropping off at the machinist.



After picking the head up from the machinist.





From this point it was all basic reassembly work.

Valve Stem seals went back in using the little sleeves supplied in the upper gasket set to keep the valve edges from cutting into the seal.  Using the OEM stem-seal tool was kind of neat, didn’t know it existed..




On to the new springs, retainers and collets.  Broke out the spring compressor.  Compressed spring/retainer right before slipping the collets in.









Cam’s turn.



Rockers and rocker shafts were next.  I could slide all of one bank on pretty quick.  Pushing in the second shaft however meant that I was going to reach a point where the cam would need to be rotated for the rocker to go on.  




Made up a handy head stand from some aluminum around the shop (in hindsight I should have moved the dowels farther forward).




Kind of neat but the M20’s rocker shafts are interchangeable from intake to exhaust while those found in the M10 and M30 are not.  Rotated the shafts and snapped the rocker retainer clips in place.



Last major step, studs, oil sprayer bar, freeze plugs, cam seal/o-ring.

When installing the seals and or freezeplugs...
1) On the OD of the seal, run a thin layer of good gasket sealer (I like Dirko).
2) On the ID of the seal, run a smear of good synthetic wheel bearing grease.



Already to go!  





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

After thinking long and hard about it I made the call to switch to throttle bodies instead of carbs.  My dcoe manifold wasn’t panning out and the more measurements I took the more I realized that carbs just wouldn’t work without compromising somewhere.

Went ahead and picked up a Racehead 40mm ITB setup.



With the ITB’s in hand I wanted to at least replicate the look of an old Alpina setup (red stacks, grey valve cover).  Sent the parts of to Nick at Rodini up in Fremont for powdercoating.  

Once the bits were back from powdercoating I mocked up the new setup ….

 

 

Andrew, you are the ace... great technical work and write-up!  Very educational for me.

I've been corresponding with 2002Scoob about his motor plans.  He is thinking of a change from twin DCOE and came up with this... a DCOE look-alike throttle body... pretty cool for a resto-mod look!

Tom

 

Jenvey Injector DCOE Triple Body.pdf

[AceAndrew]

On 7/16/2017 at 0:47 PM, Swiss 2002Tii said:

 

 

Andrew, you are the ace... great technical work and write-up!  Very educational for me.

I've been corresponding with 2002Scoob about his motor plans.  He is thinking of a change from twin DCOE and came up with this... a DCOE look-alike throttle body... pretty cool for a resto-mod look!

Tom

 

 

Hey, thanks for the kind words.  Those are pretty neat, I will use them on some other projects at work.  But, for me, part of the charm of webers is tuning them.

 

Time for another update! Things are moving forward.  Not the least of which I left (on good terms) my job at GMG and went to work with Erik at CoupeKing.  He'd been rather insistent and made one of those offers it would be stupid not to take.  So, back to work in BMW-land!

 

With the bare chassis now media-blasted to bare metal, I had it dropped off at work.  Here are a couple pictures of it being dropped off and temporarily tucked in for the night.

 

 

 

 

 

It's pretty neat to be able to see the original brazed spots.

 

 

 

I don't care what anyone tries to say, there is no such thing as a "rust free unrestored classic car".  There is rust in there somewhere.  In this case the fenders needed a bit more work (previously a lower section on the nose and spots on the lower fenders were cut out and replaced). 

  The next day into the body-work booth it went.  Honestly, doing the bodywork myself was just never a realistic option.  Especially not when I've now got access an incredibly talented body-man keen to strut his stuff.

 

 

We simply call him “Maestro”, he's been tapping hammers for the better part of four decades.  It's honestly a bit mesmerizing to watch him work.  Would you figure he's got an old 4-door Lincoln and a '65 Caddy Convertible?

It was interesting to see how each panel was further ground smooth and hammered straight before being coated in epoxy primer.  I tried a bit of the hammer work with Maestro's tutelage, don't know how he does it so seemingly effortlessly, it's an art. 

 

 

 

 

Here's how the chassis sits as of this morning, this represents three weeks of eight hour days and counting.   After the priming, the panels were mounted and then sanded to a uniform surface. Getting the door gaps perfectly aligned with the fenders and rear ¾ took some time, but the end result will be a nice, continuous, paint reflection.  

 

 

 

I have a little fabrication left to do in the coming two weeks.  After that it's time for paint!

 

Fabrication list.

1) Stitch welding and additional subtle chassis reinforcements.
2) Nuts welded to the B-pillar, and new relocated holes for the new front seat belts
3) Slots, nuts, and mounting brackets for the new 318-style rear seat belts. (We want something as safe as possible for the kids.  These will position the strap up on a pivot to be located on the C-pillar).
4) Cut final hole for oil-cooler
5) Weld tabs with captive nuts for the radiator shroud.

6) Grind off the stock accelerator pedal bracket.

 

Onward and upward.

Edited September 13, 2017 by AceAndrew

[vinceg14]

Bravo! 

 

[ray_]

I thought the fenders were supposed to be proud of the doors, to mitigate wind noise.

 

;-)

 

Cheers,

[kbmb02]

Nice work going on there. -KB

[AceAndrew]

Thanks guys, just happy to get this rolling along again.  

 

Ray - Ha! #becauseracecar ... or something like that.

 

 

Tailights are done and ready, except that reverse light.  One more thing to check off.  Thank you to BluntTech to offering these awesome LED conversions.

 

- Painted lenses white
- BluntTech LED Taillight conversion
- Rechromed trim rings
- New gasket seals
- New lenses

 

 

[02tradition]

I didnt see the tranny tunnel how did you modify that for that motor/tranny swap. I know you had mentioned the hole for the shift lever would need to be moved back some. 

-The other Andrew

[AceAndrew]

That'll be happening this weekend.  That fabrication list is growing.

 

 

More progress on the bodywork.  

Maestro has really spent a lot of time the past couple days making sure the door gaps line up perfectly. 

 

 

With the trunk lid underside done, the top side was next.  As with the other panels, the bare metal is sanded and hammered before small amounts of filler are added.

 

 

Primer added over top.

 

 

A few days were dedicated to getting the nose just right.  This meant using a spare set of grills and a lot of metal shaping.  I really think Maestro's actually a wizard.  Once he was happy, on went the primer!

 

 

Getting geared up for this weekend's "FabFest", hopefully I'll get that fabrication list completed so we can start looking at paint.

[AceAndrew]

Well this weekend wasn't quite the "fabfest" I was hoping for.  We had a client come in with a very rusty rocker on his 2002, so the bulk of the time was spent there.

However, the hood has now been tackled by maestro.  On the right side there was a pretty sharp dent he managed to tap out and then go over with a thin filler layer.

 

 

 

 

Now the engine-bay bodywork has begun!  Note the frame rails are now stitch welded to the inner fenders.  This is a nice touch when building a race 2002, so it makes sense here. I still need to remove "shave" a few things and the fab work will mess up some of the progress, such is life.

 

 

Lunch-break progress (don't mind the nuggets).  Laid out the freshly-chromed bumpers.  Huge thank you to Steve for doing the chrome-work.

 

First step was to paint the insides of the bumpers with a nice industrial paint.

 

Edited September 25, 2017 by AceAndrew

[AceAndrew]

 

10.2.17 Fab Day 1

Great progress was made on Saturday.  It was “fabrication day” #1.  I was extremely grateful to have the help of Jesus and Sergio, together we were able to knock out nearly everything on my list.

 

Maestro has been continuing to work in the engine bay and had gotten to the point of laying down a thick coat of zinc-rich primer.

 

Keep in mind everything here has been done with keeping the fabrication minimally invasive while improving structural rigidity throughout the chassis.

-------------------------------

Before we get to the meat, here’s a warning.  These are the inner bottom portions of each front fender.  This is on a car that showed NO external signs of rust (anyone could have easily called it “rust free”).  The fenders had never been removed and so there was a generous helping of body sealer covering/”sealing” this area from corrosion.  This is a somber reminder that rust needs to be sought out, and never assume anything.  The only way to correct it is to face it head on, a lot of times I’ve seen clients pull an Ostrich (I can’t [or don’t want to] see it, therefor it doesn’t exist) only to be bit in the butt later on.

 

 

 

In the trunk we stitch welded the center divider and rear panel between the shock towers.  Note that Maestro has been working on the trunk area.

 

 

In the interior we removed the spot welds from the shifter surround and plugged the hole.  Then we repositioned the surround 2.5” rearward and cut a new hole.

 

 

 

 

 

In addition we stitch welded the seat mounts, rear seat panel, and the e-brake sheet metal.

 

 

Lastly on the interior, Sergio welded in some captive nuts for new seat-belt mounting points on the B-pillars.

 

 

In the engine bay we removed a number of the unnecessary tabs/brackets.

 

 

 

I plan on running the later-style heater core, so we enlarged the coolant hose holes up a smidgen.

 

Since the front radiator support panel had to now be removable we ended up extending the side sheet metal sections by .5 inches, note that we mimiced the lip as well.  We also liberated a few mounting tabs from an e24 and welded them on for the front-most tabs.

 

 

The result is a removable panel that could be mistaken as factory, by someone who didn’t know better.  I’ll still add a couple mounting bolts.

 

And that just about wrapped up the day!  What is still to come before paint:

1)Front frame rail gussets
2)Additional stitch welding
3)Converting to later style-fuel filler (debating)
4)Oil cooler hole and mounting
5)Coilpack mounting holes
6)Washer bottle mounting holes
7)Coolant reservoir and oil catch-can mounting holes
8)Front frame-rail support
9)Radiator mounts
10)Engine-bay headlight box cover/beauty panels
11)Grind off accelerator pedal mounting tab

[02tradition]

Noice so 2.5" is the magic number huh?

[AceAndrew]

On 10/2/2017 at 2:31 PM, 02tradition said:

Noice so 2.5" is the magic number huh?

 

By my calculations, yes.  It should provide a selector rod that is "just" long enough to function properly.  However, "the proof is in the pudding", so we'll see.

 

------------------------

 

10.4.17  Wurth Texturing

 

With the media blasting and trunk repairs, a lot of the factory texturing was removed or in bad shape.  The Wurth texturing gun was brought out to get back to the OEM look.

 

Maestro has just finished the rear wheel wells in the trink, so starting there we masked off the spare tire well and gas tank opening.  

 

 

 

 

 

With that finished the final corrections to the trunk were made and then a coating of zinc primer laid over top.

 

 

 

I don’t think the spare wheel well ever looked this good.

 

[/url]

 

Next to get shot were the rockers and front/rear lower sections.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Up in the front Maestro has taken to smoothing out our fabrication work from Saturday.  Namely making the small corrections needed to make the removable radiator support look like it could have been that way from the factory.  

 

 

 

 

 

Looking forward to FabDay #2 this Saturday.  We should get that wrapped up, then underbody clean up (and texturing).  After that, the paint booth is looking mighty appealing!

 

If anybody is a bit tired of these “body-centric updates”... we’ve been reassembling “Project Pumpkin” right now.  It’s pretty fun.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152898763@N04/albums/72157689077613786/with/36809369083/

 

Also got a call from Momo yesterday, we’ll be doing some fun stuff with them next week.

 

-Andrew

Edited October 5, 2017 by AceAndrew

[jgerock]

Nice work!  Please share the b pillar seat belt mount. Wish I had done this to my car.