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AceAndrew

M20 Triple weber build x2

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(edited)

This thread will contain the building of my M20b25's to be fitted into my 2002.


THE BACK GROUND

This project is being put together by myself.  I do work at Ireland Engineering, so the parts bin is nice. This is NOT something I'm doing on the job, it is a pet project build with my free time.)

 

The idea is to have the car appear completely stock from the outside, and go crazy with the engine.  Like a business suit with flamboyant underpants.  I love the idea/novelty of a weber powered M20 in a 2002. I know it won't make as much horsepower as a set of ITB's but frankly I'm not building this for big numbers, anyone can do that. The sound of three webers at WOT and the novelty of tuning carburetors are a few of my reasons in going this direction.

ENGINE #1

Looks like the previous driver didn't change the oil that much. The cam journals were grooved beyond the point of repair. Took a toll on the rockers as well.
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the block sitting with good company
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The car that this engine will someday reside in. My daily driven 1970 2002.

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------------------------------------------------
Project from next door, a turbo tii!? Das ist schön!
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Edited by AceAndrew
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What are your plans for the radiator support and radiator. I ask because we are planning two M20 builds up here and are working out ideas to not have to cut the nose for M20 installs on both of them. These cars are increasing in value and may one day have the same value as an equivalent Alfa or Porsche. It's time we stop cutting up the radiator supports for M20 conversions. I'm not against the engine swap, just not cutting the nose for it any more.

The earlier non fan clutch M20 water pump has no boss for the fan clutch nut, it's flatter/shorter... I have heard of an even shorter M20 water pump but haven't been able to find any hard info on it yet.

The earlier/euro upper timing belt cover has no distributor cap and is much shorter.

I have installed Motronic in my cousin Matt's 3.5L E12 528i using the original distributor to throw the spark. I've got a bug to try the same ting with these M20 builds... I.E. get and use an earlier/euro M20 distributor mounted in the block to throw the spark.

The earlier crankshaft bolts are shorter... no 22mm section, only the 27mm short section.

Having the motor mount brackets mount the motor as far back as possible also helps. The old style "Dan Williams" mounts are to far forward. I believe the 2002Haus kit is much better. I've not seen the Groma mounts close up yet.

Cheers & HTH,

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The earlier/euro upper timing belt cover has no distributor cap and is much shorter.

I have installed Motronic in my cousin Matt's 3.5L E12 528i using the original distributor to throw the spark. I've got a bug to try the same ting with these M20 builds... I.E. get and use an earlier/euro M20 distributor mounted in the block to throw the spark.

Cheers & HTH,

I to am looking for ways to save an inch here or there, will let you know what happens as it comes along.

As for the distributor in the block, we are on the same wave length

IMG_1860.jpg

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I'm also in the process of installing a m20 in my 2002 and I don't really understand your statement concerning the engine's angle being the same as an e30's with your mounts. I was under the impression the 'other' mounts you refered to also mounted the m20 at 20 degrees like it sits in the e21's and e30's.

Steve.

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(edited)
I'm also in the process of installing a m20 in my 2002 and I don't really understand your statement concerning the engine's angle being the same as an e30's with your mounts. I was under the impression the 'other' mounts you refered to also mounted the m20 at 20 degrees like it sits in the e21's and e30's.
Steve.


Hi Steve, sorry for the confusion. I was under the impression that some other mounts do not retain the 20' angle. I'd really like to take a look at the different mounts available and looks for other differences.


Engine/car #1

suspension.... Got the assorted bolts and washers back from the platers.

bling shot of all things shiny going on front subframe.
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Ed at Groma seam welded my control arms. On 02 race cars they box these in, but this is more than enough for my build.
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refreshed steering box
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this is after a good soak in a concoction of denatured alcohol and purple power
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EXTRA goodies.

This is an awesome S14 powered 2800 Groma built for John of SoCalVintageBMW.com
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IMG_1897.jpg Edited by AceAndrew

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Happy 4th! Not much done, been a little busy.

What awaits us inside?!....

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I spy some coolant....

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and the before a bath shot......

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Followed by the after the bath. Cleaning out the area under the oil level sensor was a pain but obviously necessary.

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ready to start testing a new oil pan baffle as soon as we get some dimensions finalized.

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(edited)

^ thanks guys. some updates.....

Got in a set of manifolds from Rowland Manifolds in South Africa. They appear to be a single casting of the center ports (oil return hole) and simply sent in triplicate. This means that the upper left hand stud for each manifold will need to be the longer style to clear the added depth. They are a little rough around the edges for my liking.

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Test fit on a groma car
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Looks like there will be some clearance issues with the 323 distributor. Might be a good excuse to go with a direct fire ignition system.
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Couldn't resist putting a carb on to get an idea of the future visual bombardment.
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Engine

After finding out that the existing manifolds weren't quite what I was hoping for I'm going to attempt to make a new set of manifolds using my limited knowledge of Solid Works, Jeff & Jeremy's experience, and a measuring caliper.

Project briefing: M20 - DCOE type manifold

cast vs. CNC machined --- Cast parts have a higher up front cost dues to the cost of making a mold but residual sets will be much less than if machined. CNC machined has a lower up front cost but that cost stays the same for residual parts. RESULT: This 3 piece manifold will not be made in any great numbers to justify making a mold so CNC'ing is my best option.

Desirable attributes.
DCOE type flange to fit 40 DCOE with enough material to port to a 45 for a race applications. Most individual throttle bodies use the DCOE flange so including injector ports and vacum ports is a must. Those (like me) running carbs will want to run a top mount linkage setup so threaded holes for heim joints to hold the linkage rod are a must.

If anybody else has any input on what would should be included please let me know.

Excited as this is my first project of this magnitude.



Engine update:

Head back from machine shop. Ready for some porting, not that it needs much.
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Took 1 rod end apart to find that the rod bearings were wore down to the copper. The crank has a lot of scoring and rather than turn it this will be a good excuse to go stroker!
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Edited by AceAndrew

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I did three dcoe 45 on my 2002 M20 works good. I have an old cast

manifold that fit good and cleared the booster and the 323 distributor,

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I also got some of the roland manifolds . I made them work but the distributor and one of the stacks had to be modified .

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I am super excited about this! I've been dreaming of a triple sidedraft m20 for a while now. I'm just a novice and tackling my first m10 rebuild right now but maybe some day I'll get there...

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