engine and drivetrain transmission output flange removal?

[jerry]

well, i tried my slimmed-down 30mm deep socket on the transmission output flange with no luck. i'm assuming the threads are normal RH threads.

one thing i'd advise others is to either avoid, or cut the deep socket to produce a shorter socket. mine kept wobbling off as i tried to torque it.

i tried heat, PB Blaster and a hammer and punch (gonna need a new nut now too). i'm out of ideas. i'm off to the pros for this one....

what am i missing to do this job?

[ridr4lif]

Got an Impact Gun? That'd probably get it off pretty quick.

Im suprised it didnt come off with heat. Im assuming you heated the nut, and not the output shaft?

Keep spraying it down with PBlaster and try again at a later date.

[colorobo2002]

The socket on the nut, and I'd try shocking the flange and bolt by tapping the socket w/ your hammer after applying the heat. It's sometimes easier to get this nut off if the tranny is still in the car, if you're not using air tools. Good luck.

Rob

[BillWilliams]

Sorry in caps, but I needed your attention. There is a brass keeper sort of thing around that nut that will not let the nut turn with any amount of force until it is removed. If you have worked on it this hard, and it is still in there, you will be surprised how easy it is to remove once you remove that lock thing.

Get a new one when you reinstall it

Sorry Colorobo2002, did not see your post when I jumped on the original post.

[dubois]

you guys have already saved me a ton of time!

[jimk]

Did you notice the flange bar in Bill William's top pic? It's a good idea to use it to block the flange from turning and with the trans out of gear. You will put flat spots on the gears if you hammer against a locked set of gears.

[jerry]

Great write-up Bill. I indeed looked for the lock washer but honestly could not see it when looking yesterday so I assumed a PO removed it. My brother took it to a local shop this morning and the word was that they suspected an ample supply of Locktite during assembly. They used an impact wrench to remove it.

btw, I used a large prybar to secure the flange from rotating. wish I had a more elegant method like Bill's because I have to admit to a little witness marking on the Al casting... Oh well, won't do THAT again.

[weewass]

Sorry in caps, but I needed your attention. There is a brass keeper sort of thing around that nut that will not let the nut turn with any amount of force until it is removed. If you have worked on it this hard, and it is still in there, you will be surprised how easy it is to remove once you remove that lock thing.

Get a new one when you reinstall it

How do you remove this without removing the nut?

[BillWilliams]

The brass keeper is just sort or wedged in there. Use a small flat screwdriver to prise it out.

[weewass]

Thanks for the help. I'm under my car as we speak. When I put the bolt back on it goes over the new keeper right? The keeper doesn't go on after I reattach the bolt

[weewass]

Sorry in caps, but I needed your attention. There is a brass keeper sort of thing around that nut that will not let the nut turn with any amount of force until it is removed. If you have worked on it this hard, and it is still in there, you will be surprised how easy it is to remove once you remove that lock thing.

Get a new one when you reinstall it

How do you remove this without removing the nut?

[weewass]

Thanks for the help. I'm under my car as we speak. When I put the bolt back on it goes over the new keeper right? The keeper doesn't go on after I reattach the bolt

or am I wrong and the keeper slides on after the flange bolt has been installed?

[BillWilliams]

After the nut, then bugger it up so it will stay in there.

[jgerock]

After the nut, then bugger it up so it will stay in there.

I tried re-using a good old one, but gave up after it kept falling out.

Wow - talk about reviving an old thread!

Bill's leverage arm looks kind of like the one Mlyte and I came up with.

[Dake]

What's the torque spec on this bad boy? Gudentite?