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Johnny Riviera

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Everything posted by Johnny Riviera

  1. Johnny Riviera
    +1 on the 185/70 CN36 Pirelli on a 5.5 rim. Have them on E21 Basketweaves and love them. Surprising amount of grip. And as others have said, Longstone is great to deal with.
  2. Johnny Riviera
    Oh, I have no class! I run with a local group (Bridge City Autosports) and mainly run in their NFP not for points class, mainly for my own enjoyment and to show vintage iron can still get it done. I’d love to run a SCCA HCS or HCR (Heritage Classic Street and Race) but nobody seems to run those classes. I would love to see more old iron autocrossing, but the times I’ve posted or mentioned to friends, I have received little interest. That said, next weekend I am planning to go out to one one McMinneville Oregon if anyone is interested.
  3. Johnny Riviera
    I do like the current ride height, so yes that would matter. I thought I saw a pic of Blunt’s car with the springs, and thought it sat similar, maybe a touch lower in front. Perhaps he lopped off a bit of spring. I don’t want the car to sit higher, so maybe I should look more at camber and roll center mods. Or maybe I just need to bite the bullet on coilovers. Below is a a pic of me with a fair amount of lean. I can also see it riding on the outside of the driver front.
  4. Johnny Riviera
    I’ve seen them. I was under the impression that I couldn’t run them with 13” wheels.......and I love the look of my 13x6’s with 205/60 Toyo RA-1’s. I have thought of the Bavaria arms. I’ve read that running the Bavaria tension arms fix the wheel placement. Is your underlying thought that changing to the stage II springs wouldn’t help much?
  5. Johnny Riviera
    Thanks for the info! My bar is the one with a different pivot point than stock. Roll does seem to be upsetting my contact patch, looking at the wear on my tires. I know camber correction would help as my car is already a bit lowered. I have fixed camber plates, but to go with adjustable plates it seems a smaller diameter spring would be in order to take advantage. That means coilovers which currently are not in the budget. My thinking is limiting body roll would mean less suspension travel, therefore less camber change. Also less weight transferred onto outer front wheel in turns. Is any of that sound reasoning?
  6. Johnny Riviera
    IE bars. I can go a little stiffer on adjustment, but was told by others here that springs were going to help more than adjustment of bar. I was told that was more for fine tuning balance and under/oversteer. I'm in the middle hole on the front bar now I am far from an expert on suspension, but always looking to learn. Thank you, John
  7. Johnny Riviera
    Hello all, Did some searching, couldn't find a good answer. I have Bav Auto with Billy Sports now, Still have a bit more body roll autocrossing than I'd like. Are the stage II's stiffer? More linear? Ride quality is not my prime objective. Thanks in advance, John
  8. Johnny Riviera
    Also, the reason the Porsche (and VW) have those “caps” is to seal the hole and not let precious cooling air escape. They do nothing to hold it on.
  9. Johnny Riviera
    Thought of the above post at first. They do take a bit to make sure they are on. I have been happy with Kingsborne wires. They are still the Bakelite type, but Commuting or autocross, no problems for me. http://kingsborne.com/
  10. Johnny Riviera
    Unless you can tell me which part needs to be welded. Was it welded on the car you took it off of? Not trying to be difficult, I honestly don’t understand.
  11. Johnny Riviera
    I’m confused. If they need to be welded in place, then that would imply that something was cut off the previous car, or is still on there. I’ll have to see if I can do some research.
  12. Johnny Riviera
    Thanks for the reply! My question about perches was due to previous posts about the rear arms probably being modified to accept this setup, and a previous post that mentioned perches needing to be welded. That made me assume something was still on the car you took them off of. My zip is 97051 Thanks, John
  13. Johnny Riviera
    Hello, What is needed for the rear to complete this? I didn't see rear lower perches at the IE site. Also, are you willing to ship? Thanks, John
  14. Johnny Riviera
    Swapped out my Ronal Kleblatt with Federal 595's for my ATS Classics with Toyo RA1's in anticipation of going Autocrossing this weekend.
  15. Johnny Riviera
    Bridge City Autosports is hosting an autocross at Sanderson Airfield in Shelton this weekend. Went last year and had a good time. It's a big course for an Autocross and Bridge City puts on a good event at a reasonable price. Looks like chance of shower Saturday morning then good weather. If that holds I'm taking my 73, it'd be cool to see more vintage stuff at these! http://www.bcautosports.club/event-schedule/axsched/
  16. Johnny Riviera
    I think they look like the one in the pic. Newer ones have a slightly different logo. Prefer ones like pic, but open to the newer ones too.
  17. Johnny Riviera
    Thanks for the tip! Mine don’t have the GM logo, though I have seen those. I will measure! Thanks, John
  18. Johnny Riviera
    Hello, Just picked up some 13x6 ATS Classics, and as the title states, need the caps. Anybody have some they’d part with? Or, is there a good alternate? Perhaps E21 Basketweave caps if anyone know if those fit? Thank you, John
  19. Johnny Riviera
    I’m of the mindset of TobyB. It is a LESS risky option. Flywheel failures, while uncommon, turn out very badly if they do happen.....for the car and your feet. There’s a reason my drag car has an unreasonably expensive scattershield around the clutch. You may be fine, and I’m sure others will chime in that they were fine. It’s all about the amount of risk YOU are comfortable with.
  20. Johnny Riviera
    I was the one having issues. I found the following in another thread. So I'll leave it up to you as to the integrity of the flywheel. As for rubbing, you can tell by installing the flywheel and holding the clutch disc up to it. You will be able to feel if it is hitting. I put the alignment tool in and turned the disc a little bit and could feel it hitting. As I said, mine measured 11mm so it was quite thin, but also, the springs seem to stick out of the disc further than they used to so it's hard to say.
  21. Johnny Riviera
    So I measured my flywheel and it appears to be 11mm thick in the friction area. I read elsewhere on the FAQ that minimum is supposed to be 14.5mm so definitely too thin. Interestingly, I also noticed that the springs on my new disc protrude much more than the ones on my old disc. Even though the number on the old disc interchanges to the same number as the new one. Interesting. I think 3.5 more mm of flywheel will solve it, but the protruding springs really make for less clearance to begin with!
  22. Johnny Riviera
    Well, at least it was the right kind of engine for the orientation!
  23. Johnny Riviera
    And my winter beater/future rallycross car is a Volvo too. I actually have equal number Volvo’s and BMW’s right now.......if you don’t count the K-bike, then the Germans are back on top.
  24. Johnny Riviera
    I too daily drive a Volvo. Ipd suspension makes it a bit more fun. And while not an M10, it has carried an engine or two.
  25. Johnny Riviera
    Thank you all for the suggestions!
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