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2002#3

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Everything posted by 2002#3

  1. 2002#3

    For the life of me I cannot remember the source of my new 3-coil/resistor for the heater motor.  I will go my garage today and look for the shipping box and see if the box label might be useful.  Larry

  2. 2002#3
    Yes, Scott, I remember you, too. Exactly as I thought: an earlier/later thing. No big deal and not going to change anything. I hope to see you at Fuel again, hopefully in 3 or so wks after my '74 is out of the body shop after an almost a 4-month internship. Regards, Larry
  3. 2002#3
    I see some tii engines (mine) which have two vacuum hoses (from the runner/intake plenum) which other tii engines do not have: (1) a larger black one over the L air filter to the deceleration valve, and (2) a smaller grey one over the R air filter to the distributor [after it joins with other smaller vacuum hoses]. These two hoses are shown in the attached photo of my tii engine. Why are these hoses not found on some tii engines? Is it an early/late production/year thing? Thanks. Larry Gray Cincinnati
  4. 2002#3
    I think I understand your issue. I could not find nylon or other sold grommets like the ones I believe you are seeking. However, I found standard rubber grommets that seemed to have worked. I greased them well and hope they don't get cut in the manner you mentioned. I found mine at Ace Hardware and, with a little fiddling, got them to fit snugly -- tight in place and open sufficiently to allow the flap rod to rotate smoothly. In the attached photo on the workbench you can see the extra grommets I did not use (next to the needle nose pliers; two sizes; I used the smaller ones). You probably cannot see the ones I installed in place. The Bowden cable which controls the hot water valve was made from an Ace Hardware lawnmower throttle cable. I worked OK, but later I replaced it with an OEM replacement which worked much better. Hints: While you are in there (1) replace the 3-resistor heater motor speed component [not expensive], (2) get a pro to boil the heater box radiator [not expensive], (3) replace the foam on the flaps [not expensive], (4) be prepared to install and remove the heater box about 5 time until you get it right... Regards, Larry Gray Cincinnati
  5. 2002#3

    Paul,

     

    Thanks for the note re: your, er..., rather your car's, underside.  Nicely done and looks nice.  My '74 tii needs a good belly cleaning, degreasing, and general tidying-up.  Will you be so kind as to provided a little of your experience? 

     

    You stated, "...I cleaned the trunk and underside down to metal and completed a POR15 process."  

     

    1. How did you go about cleaning your belly and POR15'ing?  Take it to the pressure car wash?  Up on stands and crawling under?  Hand washing? etc.?

     

    2.  How did you manually clean the belly?  Chems?  Soap?  Pressure?  Scraping?

     

    3.  How did you go about applying anti-rust?  Applied over all components, including frame, etc.?

     

    Photos of my car and a few representations of its underside are attached.

     

    Thanks for any help, wise counsel, and sage advice.

    IMG_1242.jpgIMG_1510.jpgIMG_1246.jpg.

     

     

     

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. 2002#3

      2002#3

      IMG_2927.jpg "Hope that helps."...it certainly does, Paul.   THANK YOU for giving me lots of good recommendations to consider and to keep me busy.  I think it does our cars a great injustice to ignore the belly.  I guess it is OK to do so; however, what really gets me is to see a nice car with a dirty engine bay.  AAAGGGHHH!  I don'r really mind if it is cluttered or old or needs mechanical/electrical attention or whatever, but for Heaven's sake, clean the damn engine and bay!  

       

      I have used Rust Mort as a rust stopper and preventative.  Works easily and well.  However, I will try the three-step POR-15 process b/c so many of our 02'ers have done so.

       

      Good luck with your car.

       

      Larry

    3. PaulTWinterton

      PaulTWinterton

      "for Heaven's sake, clean the damn engine and bay!"

       

      I totally agree.  Can't resisting adding pretty pictures.  Cheers.

      JobComplete2.jpg

      DSC02837.JPG

      Engine1.jpg

    4. 2002#3

      2002#3

      Holy Crap!  Dat bay be stylin' and reeeeeal clean!

  6. 2002#3
    True dat, Simeon. Of all the parts on a tii, the KF should not be fiddled with if it ain't broken and it's pumping fuel like it should. Larry
  7. 2002#3

    I am interested in your car as a project.  A couple of questions if you don't mind, please.

    1.  Does it need some work to wake it up and get going?.

    2.  Will it start, run, and perhaps make it to Cincinnati?  

    3.  Any rust issues:  trunk, rocker panels, jack points, and door bottoms?  The wheel wells and engine bay look pretty good.  

     

    Thanks for posting and for taking time to answer.

     

    Regards,

     

    Larry Gray

    Cincinnati, OH

    ldgray@fuse.net 

  8. 2002#3
    Photos of a 2.5 lb Amerex halon extinguisher in a Bracketeer mount attached to the floor seat rails, out of the way, secure, and ready for its hopefully-never intended use. 1974 tii. Larry Gray Cincinnati, Ohio
  9. 2002#3

    Yes, indeed, can you share some photos of your new LED lights installed and working?  We will really appreciate such posts.  Or feel free to send them to me personally.  Also, do you have any idea of the difference (other than cost) between the four type of 7" lights offered by VintageCarsLED?

     

    Thanks,

     

    Larry Gray

    Cincinnati, Ohio

    ldgray@fuse.net

  10. 2002#3
    My confirmed reservation came in at $103 (Thu) and $126 (Fri and Sat), including taxes. Still, a deal. LG
  11. 2002#3
    The hotel has rooms available for the '17 event at this time. Rates have not been established; however, I was told "...previous rates of $79 might go to $84...". Larry Gray Cincinnati, Ohio
  12. 2002#3

    Roundie,

     

    I, too, love original/stock '02 steel wheels and always desired same in 14x6 size.  However, I never thought such combo would ever exist.  Your project looks sweet, indeed.  Please update me/us re: how your alterations were done and how the project works out. 

     

    I like my Panasports but would drop them immediately for your new invention...

     

    Regards,

     

    Larry Gray

    1974 tii

     

    Cincinnati, Ohio

    ldgray@fuse.net

    1. Roundeie

      Roundeie

      Test fitted the mock up over Girling calipers with slotted rotors. I am restomodding my '72 and wanted to make sure of fitment. next step is to have the wheel completed and then I'm going to have it powder coated. The completed version should be finished by month end. This may not be an economical everyday wheel though. The fabrication is $200 and powder coating probably $60-$80 each. If I'm not mistaken Panasports can be had for that.

    2. 2002#3

      2002#3

      Indeed, quite a project.  However, way cool.  Total's gonna be an expensive proposition and one I feel just might be well worth the time, effort, and $.  Clarification:  Fab is $200/rim?

       

      My 14" Panasports were $800, with tires.  Gonna live with them a while...

       

      Larry

  13. 2002#3
    Thank you very much, Steve. You're a good man. The info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com link/address is new to me. I will certainly try it. I am not using a gmail account so I might be successful. Regards, Larry
  14. 2002#3
    1974 tii Inka VIN 2782059 Interior complete (photos 1 & 2). Engine complete (photo 3). Body work in progress post Euro conversion (photo 4). For the life of me and after numerous attempts, I cannot seem to contact the person and BMW Group Archiv below to determine the exact birthdate of my car and the importer. Any suggestions? Regards, Larry Cincinnati, Ohio
  15. 2002#3

    If you have some door brakes ready to go, I will take one set.  Please send payment info.  

     

    Regards and thanks a lot,

     

    Larry Gray

    Cincinnati, Ohio

    ldgray@fuse.net

    1. harry6422

      harry6422

      Hi Larry, I am out of stock and am taking orders , I will have sets back in stock ready to ship by the end of next week. Cost is $135.00 per set, shipping is free to any USA address, you can pay through PayPal to this email address (creativesales.comments@gmail.com)  please make it a "personal" payment saves on fees, also send me your shipping address to the same gmail address. I send a email when shipped with tracking info. Please contact me at creativesales.comments@gmail.com to place a order, first to pay will be first to ship.

      Thanks,
      Harry
  16. 2002#3
    I did look at photos of real Euro 2002's and saw the pointed overriders. The photos initiated my concern that I might be using the wrong overriders. Turns out, I was. The attached foto of a real Euro is the one which first peaked my interest. Thanks for your photo: additional proof. Regards, Larry
  17. 2002#3
    Thank you, Lars, for the info and the fotos. Larry
  18. 2002#3
    Yeah, probably to match the rear. Somehow, I think I'd miss those front over riders because they seem to define a 2002 in some ways. I looked at them for 34 years when I had a '73 2002 as my only car. I miss that car. However, I have the steering wheel from that car in my current '74 tii. So I still can feel it...
  19. 2002#3
    Thank you for the information and the source. Now, if I want to use them, I will have to find front side pieces without the holes for the rubber strip. Could find very few photos of (Euro) front bumpers without over riders.
  20. 2002#3
    Thanks, Paul. Over riders have already been removed from the rear and seams have been covered with chrome. Like you, I prefer the '73 over riders in front. Must start looking for same. I wonder if chrome seam covers are available for the front bumper. Never have seen them.
  21. 2002#3
    I have completed a "Euro" conversion on my '74 tii and used large, upright bumper guards (over riders) on the front. Now, I have a question: Were these guards appropriate? ...and in whose eyes? For a such a conversion, what determines the most appropriate front guards should be used, i.e., small rounded, pointed, or large upright? Or, is it simply a subjective call of the owner and "supportive" friends who sit around, drink his/her beer, and watch him/her work on the car? I seem to have seen mostly the pointed guards on our site and the internet. Thanks, Larry
  22. 2002#3

    Harry,

    I will take one (1) set of door brakes, please.

    Larry

     

    Larry Gray

    7012 Mt. Vernon Ave.

    Cincinnati, Ohio 45227

    ldgray@fuse.net

  23. 2002#3
    Friends, After following up my original post on this topic, reading the several informative and thoughtful comments above, and copious amounts for surfing, I have found the info I needed re: seam covers. There seems to be four (4) different seam covers. for older models without a complete wrap-around rubber strip (short bumpers): # 51121803273 (L side, no shallow notch for rubber strip) # 51121803274 (R side, no shallow notch for rubber strip) for newer models with a complete wrap-around rubber strip (long bumpers): # 51121815481 (L side, shallow notch for long rubber strip) # 51121815482 (R side, shallow notch for long rubber strip) NOTE: Please let us/me know if my info is not correct. NOTE: There also is #51121806026 (no shallow notch). Cannot seem to determine which car/arrangement this one fits... There are several sources for these covers. Some sources can provide both L and R; some can provide only the L or the R, not both. In addition, the l and R usually are different prices. I ordered ---81 and ---82. I also ordered two (2) center section LP light, so now I am committed to the complete rear bumper Euro conversion. Will begin looking for a Euro center section with holes, not slots, for the rubber strip. (Side light holes are being filled this week to complete the conversion.)d For those of you who have not converted, see photos for an idea of some of the lower nose and rear valence body work which can accompany a conversion. Regards, Larry
  24. 2002#3
    Friends, In the attached foto from Vintage 2016, my car is on the right and MARTII's nice tii is on the left. I want to replace my rear bumper guards (old school term)/uprights with seam covers as are on MARTII's car and keep the rubber trim strip. My bumpers are 1972(?). I have not yet decided to convert the center section to one which contains plate lights as MARTII has done.) From what I understand after reading about covers on our illustrious site, there might more than one version of the covers: early/late? notched/un-notched? Do covers have to be notched? Any of you have covers appropriate for my bumper? I plan to contact BluntTech and Roger'stii. Thanks. Larry Cincinnati, Ohio
  25. 2002#3
    Thank you, Harold. Just the info I needed. Exactly. Will order today and have them sent to the body dude. Now off to Idaho for 3 weeks of backpacking. Regards, Larry
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