tzei

Thx

Well yes that was my first big concern. I think (hope) i got it right. So it should look like an 02 or at least as 02 as my white car - it's where I measured axle heights. 

Maybe I end up with Flintmobile

Lag is gone now. Track? At least a year more. Idk.

Well thank you sir!

Z's M54 is not for this one. I'm thinking M10 Forced induction atm but we'll see

@jprocket So totally forgot/did not see your Q. Fronts are normal 02 Ti/Tii/turbo etc. pads, I'm running currently Ferodo FCP399H and read pads should be Audi/VW #20961 (VW Bora '09 I think it was from which I took rear calibers).

No. Just annual oil change. Takes 1.5 L

Oh and then there is noise of straight cut gears... 

More assembly. Shimmed lash to 0.11 mm (0.07 - 0.13 factory limit). Would like it to be a little more but i'll take that. Tooth pattern looked ok. Had to turn 0.2 mm from rh bearing cap/cover to get it "on shimm" as my thinnest wasn't enough.

Ready to put oil in and back cover back. Some random pics::

I want to know how my rear axle behaves with loose lock. 45 acc. as before so no change there. 80 deacc. vs old 45 so not much locking braking/coasting. Turns better? I'm learning this stuff too.

I understand that this version has same, 9.5:1 low comp. pistons as Mini variant. Chiptuning gets merely +30ish more hp so factory set up does not have much head room for tuners unless hardware is modified. 
 

For this to be valid option for me i need about 450 hp (and tq) out of it.

No ig here but have to spy that one out. Thx. And if you (or anybody else) sees something along these lines floating around the web, let me know

Yes i think so. Basically it only needs oil pump, rods and crank grind to run in oe condition. Do i settle for oe? Let's see. Now i have an empty block to toy with in engine bay...

One more st was needed to get counter balance shafts out. Pressing part of the tool was too short so i had to insert one m6 nut in axle bore to get engagement. Nut dies in progress but does not hurt threads inside.

Engine tear down started. Head and cams looks to be good condition. Same can't be said about bottom end. Rod bearings are dead and so are rods. Also crank might be dead too. Looks like when oiling starts to fail first to go are rod bearings #2 & 3. Mains are fine.

Mind you when i took cam stuff apart vvt was fully open position. Who ever drove this kept foot on the floor until iron didn't turn anymore. Rod bearings were welded to journals/rods. Block seems to be ok oh and windows from factory! 

Tempted but dunno yet.

Made some progress today. @Howardpowered Firts i put it on scale. 101 kg without exhaust, intake, alt & starter.

Then i made a simple adapter to pull injectors out.

Also got me cradle out of B58 to see if it would go on B48 block.

B58 does not have same oil return holes that B48 has. Also not all bolt holes on sides lines up. But i think it's doable. Why? Because i may want to use dry sump lubrication and it ties bottom end nicely. We'll see. Oh and it's more beefly than B48's short version.

Rh1. E21 pumpkin is 9 or so mm narrower (output flange to output flange. You’ll be able to measure this as you have em both) than 02 unit iirc. With 02 shafts it’s enough to pull output axle(s) out of the diff which is no bueno.

My findings are that there is tiny amount of difference in axle bores - 02 cvj didn’t want go over E21 axle splines. E21 cvj goes on 02 axle, no issues, works fine, but this combo is just a little short to function without pulling output shafts out. Hence spacers.

Hope i make sense.

Rh1. Get them E21 shafts - both (and you’ll have spares). Diff prolly has m10 threads so u need cvjs to match. If you can put 02 cvj on E21 axle then lenght should be ok. I couldn’t - was too tight and i bailed and used shims between diff flange and inner cvj to get lenght right.

Rh2. Just make hard lines at the first go?

Rh3. Sounds too thight. Might be short lived.

Rh4. Open, clean, inspect. Don’t just kill it. Might be good after little service.

I made bespoke engine attachment for engine stand. Conventional tranny face fixature does not fly as timing stuff is there. So hot side is only viable option. Some tinkering is needed cuz e/mount points are angled.

Test fit and paint.

On 6/8/2023 at 8:22 AM, Howardpowered said:

How much does b48 weigh?

Dunno yet. Have to get my scales out someday.

Today was MOT test and brakes were fine. Fronts measured 2.0 kN and rears were at 1.4-1.5 kN.

After looking some 3rd country DIY (distroy it yourself) vids I thought i'd invest in some tools. 1st batch got me these:

From top left: counter shaft align, vanos socket and spark plug socket. From bottom left: camshaft align and follower spring tool.

Next I'll need to make attachment for block to fit engine stand.

On 4/4/2023 at 8:38 PM, Georges said:

How will you make the ECU happy?

OE unit is too compilcated i think. Not sure but i’m afraid it needs to see other car modules in flexray environment in order to function properly. Investication ongoing…

Currently leaning towards aftermarket and Haltec looks promising but then gdi injectors needs to go & holes plugged -> port injection.

Thank You

Never seen one before. Window felt strip from some other vehicle?

Oh hell yeah!

Confirm. Yea S14B20 crank was my first thougt - have one brand new on a shelf. Maybe i’ll that route someday. So far this concept has worked very well.

Ah dimensions… they are so boring ;j

well it’s tad under 1800 cc ? 

I’ll start with weight issue. Bare block, just main bearing caps & bolts on my bathroom scale said 37.5 kg. So something over half a kilo is close. Should weight std block with better scale. Maybe i find some time to do this.