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Oldtimerfahrer

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Everything posted by Oldtimerfahrer

  1. Oldtimerfahrer
    I think if you can set up a standard diff correctly, getting an LSD approximately right should not be a problem. What is wrong with it? You started the thread with a question on how to tell whether you have an LSD at all, but now you want to rebuild it...without explaining what's wrong with it... Andrew
  2. Oldtimerfahrer
    My E30 has the 188 case, you can double the clutches in the 188 case, so you have 4 in total and milling the plates to adjust the ramp angle determines to my understanding how progressive the lockup is, not the %. A guy that builds racing drivetrains built mine, after I had bought it "rebuilt" from a well meaning but inexperienced E30 fan. My builder had a lot of time on his hands, since noone is racing at the moment here, so he explained a lot about which surfaces are key, how they are milled etc. There are even petrol and diesel LSD units for the E30, which are different. He says that the oem clutch packs are really good, they are interchangeable with the ones Porsche sells as oem, so he usually uses those. I don't know if you can double up in the small 168 case, components are all different. I would agree with Toby on the size of the clutch pack in the 168 diff, but my 168 had a broken pinion, clutch pack was ok. Andrew
  3. Oldtimerfahrer
    The casings are identical, except for the stampings on oem lsd diffs but you could stamp the numbers on. I bought a second second hand diff for my E30, that was an expensive object lesson. If its important that it works, I would have it checked to ensure that the clutches are good and the contact angles are good, i.e. it will apply the correct rate of lock up. My E30 diff hat shot in it from blasting the case, the ramp angles were wrong and it was generally speaking improperly assembled...so while all the parts were new it was not set up right and would have failed (ignoring the blasting medium getting washed into the roller bearings). A 25% is the standard road going diff, 40% is somewhere in between road and fast road, Toby and others can share views on the higher lockup %. For normal use, I would say proper function is more important than the %, both are ok. The clutch pack (clutch and washers)varies by the lockup you want to achieve, the friction plates have obvious signs of incorrect wear and if worn out its just an open diff. I would take it apart before installing. If it is newly and properly buikt, you should check the oil level after install and run some slow figure 8s in a parking lot for 15-20 minutes, then swap out the oil again. The abrasives from the clutch are in the oil after the initial embedding and damage the diff....you can strain filter and reuse though. Andrew
  4. Oldtimerfahrer
    Boots, bonnets, wings..nearside, if you are plagued with reading the old haynes manuals, you learn the equivalents...I was just commenting on the boards....I am afraid that I am losing my American English...
  5. Oldtimerfahrer
    I know he knows. I spend lots of time in the UK in normal times in Coventry, former capital of the UK auto industry....so Im bilingual as well ? Andrew
  6. Oldtimerfahrer
    Cool, that is interesting...they warn you that the maximum recommended sustained speed is 180km/h or 112mph. But they also note that most of the engine is shared with the 2002tii. Andrew
  7. Oldtimerfahrer
    Just a word of caution, they don't fit all lug nut / alloy combinations... If you are using stock steelies or basketweaves or any alloy with a relatively "flat face", no problem. But some alloys have the web too close to the lug nut and these wrenches are not exactly "thin wall". I know that you cannot use them on Cosmic alloys without destroying the finish on the inner web next to the lug nut. Mine is a decoration, I have thin wall socket and 1/2 bar in the trunk which is unfortunately heavier than that wrench you are looking to buy. Andrew
  8. Oldtimerfahrer
    The 2002s have grey thin plywood boards in the "boot" (aka trunk or luggage compartment) which cover the spare tire on one side and the fuel tank on the other. The turbo came stock with the 185 wheels, had boards that were adapted to take a larger tank and wider tire...so same level on both sides. If you put a 185 on a 5,5 inch rim in the left side of a normal 2002, its higher and raises the board about 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch on that side...but if you have a thick carpet in the boot, then you dont really notice this difference. Andrew
  9. Oldtimerfahrer
    My solution was to buy a trunk carpet, so you cant see the difference between the two sides with the wider spare. I am also keen to order a set for my car's 50th in February. That and some shorter springs to dress her up, the retro Recaros from Italy for tge interior should complete the "nip & tuck"... i might feel a little younger then too... Andrew
  10. Oldtimerfahrer
    dunno these day. I wanted to order a frame for a Land Rover, they quote a 12 week lead time... Some people seem to be busy. Andrew
  11. Oldtimerfahrer
    Thats a very cool sign. The model designations are interesting....I thought the Saab Sonnette was the same in all markets, here its a "Sonate II". Andrew
  12. Oldtimerfahrer
    How big a difference in grip do you expect between the pirelli and the avon? Im not keen on the look of the avon, but my ti spends most of its miles on tracks or closed streets, with rough surfaces (porous asphalt). I want to stick with the xxx/70 profile. Andrew
  13. Oldtimerfahrer
    Ah. Someone mozzified the new rotor for you....missed that point. Did they remove material from the outer face or the inner face? If its the outer face, that should not move the disk inward to foul the dust shield. Doesnt look like the shields can be mounted incorrectly, their against the stub axle and have nowhere else to go. Are the spacers on the caliper the right width? Did you get a positive id on the rotors themselves? Andrew
  14. Oldtimerfahrer
    Does anyone run the Yokohama A048 (190/580 R13)? I was thinking about the Avons as well. Andrew
  15. Oldtimerfahrer
    My "certificate" from BMW for a 71 ti had no options on it, it only listed the exterior color and no other feature of the care like the interior. Mine came with an LSD and no gearbox, so original build is difficult to pinpont. Are the build records accurate or very precise in 1970/1971? Andrew
  16. Oldtimerfahrer
    Used brake components, unless cores for rebuild, like used tires "with tread", are a no-go. The alpina vented rotors that fit on ti/tii calipers were nla for a long time, but someone is making them now. They are narrower than turbo rotors. WALLOTH has new turbo rotors for 92EUR a piece, why waste time on used? Used turbo rotors would have to be a "gift" added to the rest of the components to even bother looking at or measuring.... Andrew
  17. Oldtimerfahrer
    If you do go down this route, dont spare on replacing the flex hoses with proper ss items. I found the feel and performance of the brakes greatly improved on track days after upgrading the hoses and pads. I trial fitted turbo hubs and rotors, but they dont clear any of the rims I have and I stopped there and stuck with the ti/tii setup. A.
  18. Oldtimerfahrer
    You need spots and fogs....come on, preferably vintage cibie Oscar's....ok, I live in the North and the winter days are short. Bad excuse though, the car never leaves the garage in winter. My excuse is night stages on regularity rallies, all of us have at least 3 or 4... Andrew
  19. Oldtimerfahrer
    Hoarding is good, as long as you dont build Frankensteins or other undead from your collection and pass them off as something else. Seems the best frankenstein's these days are no longer in the E30 community, but have now moved on to newer pastures. New hoarding is expensive, so hold on to your hoards and shelf them well...dont let relatives or descendants sell them off as scrap at a tonnage price....(sitting on some run of the mill stuff myself, all in galvanised shelving either waiting for an engine failure or a random 2002 to come my way....) Andrew
  20. Oldtimerfahrer
    The russian auto industry lived from copying (buying or evacuating the tooling as the case may be) and adapting the products (fords, packards, opels, fiats) to the needs of their market. Each of the products was "better" for their needs, a Lada rusted the same but the metal was much thicker than its italian counterpart so naturally it lasted longer in that environment. Both the Lada and the Fiat were not bad cars, the Fiat was a really good small sedan in the mid 1960s, the Lada was not a really good car in 1991 by anyone's standards. Its nostalgic to get into a 1989 Lada, the next generation was hideous with no redeeming qualities. The Niva is probably a standout in the Russian industry, as it was a unique vehicle when initially produced, both rugged and tractable. Superior to the small 4x4s produced by others at the time. I've never been in a Trabant, but the engine is far worse than the solutions adopted in the Moskovitch and other Soviet cars. The soviets produced utilitarian cars for the anonymous proletariat, we can't measure them by the same standards as the marketing machine that produced the equivalent products in the west (remember "ultimate driving machine")...so bashing maybe not, you can't really compare them but don't have to admire them either... Andrew
  21. Oldtimerfahrer
    Very low compression slant in-line 4. I live in Latvia and you see a few of them kicking around. Some of the old guys used to look at my engine and think bmw copied it, because the 2002 looks modern compared to the Moskovitch. Original Moskovitch was a copy of a pre-war Opel...need I say more? A.
  22. Oldtimerfahrer
    Mine were always so crusty when I got them that the side play was not apparent until you took them apart... These look clean, comparatively.? A.
  23. Oldtimerfahrer
    Ti brackets are welded to the sidewall originally, so unless you're painting the engine bay the Alpina brackets are the way to go... A.
  24. Oldtimerfahrer
    I did something similar to Hans, rubber rings that are intended as adapters or transition pieces for pvc plumbing pipes...slid them onto the horns from the carb side and then secured the horns to the carbs. Used the slanted horns though with the standard rubber elbows and standard airbox. I have 45dcoe's and the standard ti airbox mounting points. I was concerned that a rough idle might bring the horns in contact with the airbox, but hasn't happened yet in 15 years... Andrew
  25. Oldtimerfahrer
    Hmm, I have the autoflug covers, but they don't seem to fit if the rear glass is in place prior to trying to install the covers. Your solution is very clean, mine is a little half baked but I did not want to cut the original parcel shelf. Is the plate above the enclosure the original stiffener? Was it necessary to install the enclosures at an angle to get proper angles for the belts not to rub? Andrew
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