manimal

Ok, so what Toby said, stock M20 coil. In your post above it said "Otronics" and Autronics is an aftermarket ECU, just a little confusion due to the typo.

Did you mean Autronics? Do you have a plug and play ECU or are you doing standalone? PnP = M20 coil. Standalone could be anything, but it depends on the ignition system you're using.

I need #7 circled in the pic. I lost the selector I had shortened and somehow only have the late e21 version in my parts stash. The 2002/early e21 version has two equal length legs while the late e21 version has one long and one short. I need the early version with equal length legs.

Magic I like his tool reviews too

AVOID PEEL AND SEAL AT ALL COSTS!!! No matter how many people have used it, it's not worth it. It will leach, especially around the transmission tunnel. I just spent 40+ hours removing that shit from the '71. There wasn't much of a smell, but my carpet did get stuck in a number of places and it was ruined when I removed it. Don't waste your time with a cheap product, the money you'll save now will bite you in the ass later when you have to fix something else. If I could go back in time I would have not bought any of it and left the OEM stuff until I came around to spending a few hundred on better materials. I spent a lot of time this past summer reading all of those diyma posts and whatever else I could find. In the end I went with the SDS stuff, IIRC it actually was a bit less expensive than an equivalent ft^2 of dynamat extreme and weight vs damping was so close I'd consider that irrelevant. Or maybe the same damping you'd need less ft^2 of SDS...I don't recall right now. When applying it, don't cover every square inch like people(myself included) used to do. Read that diyma thread linked above and the SDS website. I haven't gotten to doing it in my 02 and likely won't for a good while. I did do the whole shebang to my daily last summer though. --My experience with the full sds product line & install, the "short" version.-- Not a direct comparison obviously, but I wanted to make my '91 volvo 245 a better "daily"/travel vehicle while keeping the interior oem-ish. I ended up going the SDS route and bought the CLD tiles, MLV(ebay), and HMF. I also bought some "EZcool" from http://www.lobucrod.com/. I used that on the sides and ceiling, CLD tiles on the everywhere, HMF on the ceiling + sides, and MLV/decoupling layer on the floor + sides. CLD tiles are for damping vibrations, MLV is for "blocking" noise, and HMF is for absorbing. The EZcool is for heat management and does next to nothing for sound dampening. I found a sheet metal shear(think giant paper cutter) was the best way to cut CLD tiles. Razor blades worked for everything else. It took a long f*cking time to install everything. Like the 02, the door panels sit on the door unlike a modern car which often has space between the metal and plastic interior panels. This made install a huge pain, lots of layout, test fit, cut away, try again... Installing the MLV was a huge pain too. Getting the carpet and seats to fit again after that small change in floor thickness was a battle. In the end, the car is quieter and more bearable in direct sun(ez cool). It would probably stay cooler if the AC worked at all. I drastically changed the stereo at the same time, so I can't use that to compare before/after volume level On the 2002 I'm more concerned with causing rust in the future due to trapping water, especially with it condensing on the sheet metal between the metal and the HMF or ezcool. I used 70ish CLD tiles, 7-8 hmf sheets, and a fair bit of ezcool which came out to 25-30lbs. The mlv was the killer at 70lbs or so. I'd expect 20-25lbs in the 2002 and I'll likely skip the MLV. Would I do it ALL again? No. It was not a big enough difference to make it worth while IMO. Maybe if I could do a side by side test with another 245 and a sound meter it would be noticeable. I would do the CLD tiles all around and maybe the HMF+ezcool on the sides/roof. My doors do make a satisfying thud when I shut them now...

Damnit, that was my idea! Edit. After staring at it for a bit, I'm assuming the upper hole is threaded all the way? If so, maybe machining a slot in the middle, not threading the hole, and inserting one of those square "weld nuts" McMaster sells may be easier/more serviceable. If the threads got mucked up you could replace the nut in a minute for pennies and you wouldn't have to worry about tapping the length of the hole. Edit #2. It won't work unfortunately. I tried a similar idea and you'd need to have a single large spherical bearings instead of bushing on the trailing arm/subframe interface.

I was looking at an IX, unfortunately it's too smashed up to be useful. Probably for the better.

Anyone have any links or pics? I'm interested to see how the interior worked out. Obviously a racecar is going to be a different story. Terry Sayther did it with an e36 & S52. Edit. A few pics of Bob Ball's hybrid. http://www.m2bmw.com/BobBall.htm

I seem to recall this happening a few years ago, probably in an eastern european country. Does anybody remember this? I can't find anything searching here or on google. IIRC it was a M42 powered e30. I'm getting some bad ideas with a few cheap cars on craigslist near me... The track width difference is 2.9"F and 3.3"R, wheelbase is 2.8". Some misplaced turbo flares would do the trick with out shortening the e30 floor. There was this, 2002 on subaru. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2107509

Pics to come Initially I tried to hammer out the tunnel and cut just the top off to make room for the Getrag 260. I realized this wasn't going to work and the easiest solution would be to remove most of the factory tunnel. Unfortunately I had already beat it into submission so I was going to have to weld a nice square edge to some heavily wrinkled and quite thin sheetmetal. Using cardboard to make a template I and some math class skillz, I traced out the pattern in two sections onto some 0.065 sheet metal. I cut out the sections with a grinder spinning a thin cut off disc. I used to use the harbor freight discs, but bought some nice 3m green corps discs off ebay for about $1/ea. Those discs blow the HF ones away, they cut faster, last longer, and produce less dust/stench. Never again will I buy the HF garbage cut off discs. I don't have a sheet metal bender, but I do have a press and some random scrap metal. After some digging I found an alloy T-channel and 1 1/4" OD steel pipe, which combined to make a jury rigged bender that gave a nice curved bend. Amazingly freehanding both parts I was able to make both pieces match up almost perfect. I stuck a twist wire wheel(from HF, some of their stuff works ok) on the grinder and cleaned both the surfaces off. If I were to do this again, I would pull the engine and remove the undercoating 2" from where I was about to weld. That seemed to be enough distance to prevent it from catching on fire. I didn't end up doing that and had quite a few nasty little fires to deal with. I held off cutting my shift platform hole since I'll be using a later G260 with the alloy shift arm shift support vs the early steel type. Not having the other trans pulled from my parts car yet, I decided to make a mark 6" from the trans output flange as a point of reference for cutting the hole in the future. After tacking the sections in place I tried to close up as many of the gaps as I could. In the end I had quite a few large gaps of up to 1/4" to fill while trying to weld 0.065 to the factory 0.040(?) metal. Many many tack welds later I have a sealed tunnel. The easiest way to check for little holes I found was to put a super bright light, 20watt LED worklight, under the tunnel. Then with the garage lights off I looked for light near the welds from inside the car. I made it larger than necessary, but it gives you an idea of approximately how big the tunnel needs to be.

The previous post was migrated from the new blog section, posted back in early march, and after producing a batch of mounts I fell off the wagon agian. Pics to come. Back to it and making progress. The car is sitting "on blocks" to get it high enough so I can work underneath while the suspension is in its static state. First order of business was to make/weld on new center support bearing mounts. You could cut the old ones off and re-attach them, but I found the old CSB mounts quite handy for holding the driveshaft so I could make small adjustments/take measurements until I was satisfied with it's position. The e30 driveshaft has perpendicular slots where the CSB bolts to the car, reverse of the 02 which has captured nuts that can slide fore/aft. To give myself a little bit of wiggle room I slotted the CSB mounts which were being welded to the car so I could also make minor side to side adjustments if necessary. I spent a long time trying to get the alignment as close to perfect as I could using a few squares, a laser pipe level, and a magnetic angle cube. Those tools helped immensely compared to the first time I did the swap with potentialm20. Finally satisfied, it was time to move onto the transmission tunnel.

Finally after a long hiatus I'm getting back to my project. 1976 Autotragic with an M20. This will be an attempt to make the swap as easy and inexpensive as possible. If you can do some rudimentary welding(or have a friend who likes beer) and have some determination, then you can do this swap. I'll be documenting this project in great detail and writing up a conversion manual with details on all the parts I use and recommended tools which you probably don't have, but don't cost too much. I will be weighing everything I can for the swap and in general on the car and adding it to a spreadsheet. Hopefully by the end of the swap I'll have a better idea of where to place things to improve the weight distribution beyond what seems correct by looking at it. I plan on getting the weight distribution back to stock or slightly more rearward after the swap which may include ballast at the rear of the car. Now to jump in part way through. Time to make some room, funny that in my large collection of tools I don't have one of those 3lb mini sledge hammers...this'll work. After some hard pounding I discovered my 20oz ball-peen hammer to be more useful and manageable. I clearanced the firewall next to where the original fuel line and vent tank hoses came out and more obviously the sill above to make room for the intake manifold. The green line is where I would do it if starting from scratch, I'll probably hammer a bit more on it. The blue circle is where I believe there will be interference with a bolt on the transmission which wasn't in place when I did the test fitting. The water neck on the back of the head is quite close to the firewall, even after some hammering. As it sits there is about 5-8mm between the firewall and the heater box which is directly behind that water neck. Much more steering link clearance compared to the dan williams style mounts! The cardboard template was made off my nicer car with an uncut nose. The crank pulley is almost exactly in the same place fore/aft as it is on the M10! Ignore the ugliness of this tube frame nose support, it was made with a HF 151 mig a few years ago. It was made from 1" 0.065 square and way stronger than I intended. I was able to stand on it and jump up and down w/o any noticeable flex. I'll be rebuilding it with a mix of 1.5", 1", 0.75", and 0.5" 0.049 wall tubing, hopefully dropping 5-6lbs from it's current 26lbs. Modification to the passenger side subframe/motor mount interface. I elongated the holes about 10mm with an longshaft electric die grinder and carbide burr. I highly recommend getting one, I used a harbor freight unit(~$40) for a while before biting the bullet and getting a makita GD800c. It's worlds nicer, but the HF unit will work and be useful for other parts of the project. Astro Pneumatic sells an 8pc carbide burr set for ~$50, I'd buy them again in a heartbeat. Edit, since then I bought a makita GD0601, $100, but can often be picked up for $80 when the tool companies do promotions. The GD800c is a beast, but the 601 works great for everything I've done so far on the car. Though not in the final position, the oem e30 exhaust downpipe fits! This is the radiator and expansion tank I'll be using. The radiator is an aluminum ebay unit which runs about $125 shipped. The expansion tank is from a volvo 740. Some pics of the transmission nubs to shave off. Second pic, upper circled area is solid and needs to be removed.

+1 on the eastwood. It's on sale at the moment too.

The small red circle is where I pounded back the firewall a bit to make clearance for the coolant hose, not sure it's necessary yet, but I'd rather have the space than have to pull the engine and make it. The green line is where I would re-massage the rain tray if I was starting over. My spot works, but ended up being deeper than necessary. I would also lower the green line a bit, MS paint on a laptop though... The blue circle is where I made a bit of extra room for a bolt on top of the transmission.

Hey, I haven't been active on my car or this form in a while. Life/broken bones got in the way, but I'm finally back to working on my car. I just logged in a have a bunch of replies for the mounts, currently I only have three sets available, but I've got a lot of vacation time to use in the next month so I can make some more. If you're still interested/newly interested, please PM me so I can get an idea of how many to make and I will respond quickly from now on. I'll try to find a link to the FS ad I had with the mount details, but here's a quick list $195 shipped for engine and G260 trans mounts(3 total mounts), unpainted -Uses 2002 mounts(or e30 on driver's side), I'm using the IE urethane 2002 engine mount kit and urethane trans mounts. -Sits as far back as possible w/o cutting/welding on the firewall, does require some massaging of the "rain tray" or whatever the drain under the hood vents is called and the transmission tunnel to be enlarged quite a bit. -Factory e30 exhaust manifold/downpipe fits at least to the back of the transmission and matches the body strangely well -Oilpan is just about level with the bottom of the subframe

Here's a pic of potentialm20's mess of an engine bay. You can barely see the hose cross back over under the overflow tank which was eventually mounted to the passenger side inner fender well. He(and I on mine) ended up going with this radiator. (for future search references, ebay "volkswagen aluminum radiator mk1 mk2" core dimensions are ~308x524x40. Cost $120 shipped as of today. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-Volkswagen-Golf-MK1-MK2-8V-MT-Aluminum-Radiator-New-/320936067958?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab947c376&vxp=mtr The second pic is the tool I made for aligning the transmission before mounting it. You could make a simpler version with holes instead of slots. The anno green level is a Greenlee L97 which I picked up from zoro tools for about $90 with a coupon(readily available). It's a pipe level and has a half inch offset from the attachment point to the laser so using any 1" ID tubing, ie 1.25" w/0.125" wall will give the center. If the tool doesn't have to be perfect as you can put the transmission in neutral and spin it around to "draw" a laser circle. Sorry I can't be of any more help at the moment. I've been a bit of a slacker on the car recently and just purchased another running project. I am in a similar boat though, my parts are a collection from a few cars and at one point were pillaged to get potentialm20's car running. Edit: Definitely don't need the e30 body harness or the power distribution block. Just the body side of the round plug for the engine harness with 10" or so of wiring for good measure. You will probably need to move a few pins around, but the wiring is very simple(and I did very poor in all my EE courses at school, embarrassingly so). I wish I could tell you them off the top of my head...but I can't. The worst of the wiring issues Aaron and I had were due to bad grounds, a dead AMM, messy PO wiring/splicing, and an ignition switch on the 02 that worked when the m10 was pulled, but not by the time we had the M20 in.

I haven't seen that one. I just picked up an early '74 260z, primer grey.

Keep it! Unless you're moving to a big city or loosing all your parking spots, it's not an expensive car to maintain. Also, we should meet up. I'd like to see it and I just bought another car(my 4th, or 5th if you count the parts car), lucky for me my roommates don't have cars.

20k miles for $410 shipped(60)/mounted locally(50) is really good. I have S-drives, but the car they're on isn't running and I have yet to use them. Picked up Direzza Z2's for my other car, also not running yet... What I can say is the Tirerack is super on top of it. I ordered my Z2's at 2pm and they arrived the next day at 11am w/standard shipping between NV and OR(500miles by road according to google)...Blew my mind!

Un bolt it and give us a pic of the relay pins w/their numbers.

I'm not trying to start an argument, but doesn't that invalidate your first point? If I understand what you're saying, lower rpm in a boosted motor = increased load/heat build up, so run a shorter ratio to increase coolant flow. Now you're saying it's the heat build up before the coolant has a chance to do it's job...so how would a shorter ratio help you if the heat builds up too fast for the coolant to help? I'm genuinely curious. And the point about downshifting would still be valid in regards to coolant flow. Edit, Metric Mechanic recommends going to a tall ratio diff when turbo charging to stay in boost longer between shifts. Just throwing that out there.

The headwind would also increase airflow through the radiator. If temp became an issue due to RPM you could always downshift.

Definitely do the ratio swap with a 3.45 e36 into a e21 case, it'll handle a few more ft-lbs. IIRC it was 250ish for the 3.45, 3.91 was not much over 200ft-lbs. Or step up to the medium case, then you have even more options from 2.73 on up and massive 400ish ft-lb ratings in the lower ratios.

Welcome to the obsession! Let me know if you ever head on down to Eugene with it, I'm doing the same swap and I'm also a bicycle nut. Every once in a while a group I'm with does a track day down in southern oregon at a karting track where they rent it out for the day. It's pretty inexpensive and has dozens of possible configurations.