JMMcR75

Congratulations on your fuel pump upgrade, Andy74tii! I'd been working a schedule similar to yours, and also completed replacement with the E24/E24 pump this week. It is quiet and nice, and the engine seems happy. I'll post some information here in a different thread. Following your advice, I kept the original wiring harness and just added a pigtail. I appreciate everyone's discussion of screens and filters - it was a big help. I elected to depend on the in-tank screen and the canister filter by the radiator for now. For what it's worth, when I look into the intake nozzle of the E24/E28 Bosch 0580-464-048 pump, there seems to be a built-in pump-protection screen already in the line, similar to the removable screen in the original pump. Picture is attached. Thanks again for everyone's advice.

I'm in the middle of the same fuel pump replacement that Andy describes. (I had convinced myself that I couldn't start until my QuickJacks arrived.) I'm using the E24/E28 pump 16141179232, Bosch 0580-464-048 shown in Keith Kreeger's exceptional article, and my pump/canister assembly looks like Andy's above. I plan on replacing the original pump wiring harness back to its connection point in the trunk by the tank, making it easier to include an inertia switch in the wiring to turn off fuel supply in case of accident. The original pump and harness will be archived for the next owner. Thank you for the discussion about screens and filters!

Off topic, but that is also a beautiful R75/6! Original spoke wheels, Krauser cases, 6-gallon tank and Euro bars. Also looks like an R90S front fender and 1976 turn signals. Thanks for preserving that history, too! Mine is 4946226. Congratulations on your tii!

Walloth & Nesch has always been good for me, discounts and all. You have to figure the shipping costs to see if they are the right option, but they've always been responsive.

You are very welcome. As I noted in the post, I got a lot of tips from others on the forum who had addressed the matter before me. I work by trial-and-error, but mostly error.

Jason, thanks for your interest in Norway Camping in Chamonix 2761282! Camping in the 2002 was great. I’ve always been amazed at the cargo capacity of these little cars. With the roof rack, we had more than enough room for two weeks’ camping gear, spare food and several Jerry cans of extra gasoline (and paper maps). Two guys camping for two weeks, or four guys skiing in the Alps for a week – never a problem. Please no comments about hygiene. My friend took himself, his wife, two in-laws and a two-year-old to Italy for a week in their 2002. We just had different space expectations. The other notes on the forum about sleeping in the back seat kind of scare me. In my experience, both front seats sleep fine, but I wouldn’t want to try the back. In this picture, all the flaps were open for unpacking and normal evening fluid checks (which is not to say this car never stranded me). As I recall, this was our first night in-country and we were washing off a long road trip. I was 24 years old and more interested in how the car handled and how to hook up as many driving lights as the Europeans than I was in the different kinds of door mirrors. So I don’t really know the answer to your mirror question. Looking at the other pictures in the Registry, they look trapezoidal to me, but I am still no mirror guru. We stopped to see my camping buddy’s relatives in Norway, and he did not want to shame the American side of the family. So he brought a couple of changes of “normal” street attire. I asked him to hang them behind my seat for better visibility. It was strawberry season in Norway, and every few miles there was a farmer's kid with a roadside stand peddling paper cones of the berries. The stems tossed from our vent windows stained the Chamonix to a pink shade from the doors to the back of the car for much of the trip. Great memories and great friendships. We still get together every few years. John

Summer 1973 camping in Norway. (The natives could spot Americans by the way they dressed.) 1972 2002tii 2761282, whose story is in the Registry. Last seen February 1976 at Platte Avenue Datsun in Colorado Springs. Miss her often.

+3 9th grade Latin. That was a long weekend.

I also spoke with Brian about two years ago when I was installing my square taillight LED arrays, and he was very helpful. He is running a small specialty business, and even then was very sensitive to the costs of the materials he uses. Count 'em, there are a boatload of LEDs in the square taillight arrays. I asked why the backup lights are still bulbs, and he explained that with a lot more LEDs, the costs for a set could be prohibitive for many owners. I'd guess that the current world situation isn't making the trade in LEDs any simpler. In any case, their LED arrays are a huge visibility and safety improvement for our cars, and you don't have to worry whether your reflectors are shiny enough.

I believe the original 1502-2002tii parts catalog can be downloaded from http://www.2002tii.org/kb/55 . It is about 80 MB. It is a scanned PDF, so searches are a lot like turning pages. Page 54-1 shows a variety of base plates (Item #1) for electric vs. manual, and standard vs. touring. The deflector plate (Item #2) is the same for all, and is part # 54121801308. When you google that part number, you find it as an E9 wind deflector, like discussed above. It's an interesting trail, but the part is still NLA. I have found the parts catalog PDF to be very valuable since it can tell you what VINs different parts were used for, and what parts superseded others. It's a baby step above paper, but easier to store.

Please add one more to the waiting list. PM sent. Thanks.

Great afternoon on the Blue Ridge Parkway. No fall colors yet, but clear skies and beautiful views. And a car that loves the curves.

I had a similar situation with my '74. Following suggestions by Paul Winterton, JP5Touring, and SpuriousSpeedo, I replaced the flasher relay with a Grote 44890 (Equivalent to NAPA EL-13L1 or to CEC EF-33RL). It has a fourth (pigtail) contact compared to EL-13, which connects to ground. This flasher relay does not seem to care what kind of bulbs are attached, it just works. See my June 18 post under "Signal flasher upgrade easy to do & what a difference" at the link below. P.S. The BluntTech / Classic Auto LED arrays are GREAT!

Similar to Paul Winterton’s 1/1/2019 post, I decided to upgrade my 1974 SquareLight 2780988 tail lights to LEDs by ClassicAutoLEDs, provided by BluntTech. I highly recommend these lights - the results are amazing, and visibility is much improved. With the stock flasher relay, LED taillights, LED dash indicator light, and incandescent 1157 front turn signals, the dash indicator would flash once only, but outside lights worked just fine. With the emergency flasher, everything worked fine. Following BluntTech’s advice, I checked to make sure we had a good ground on the front turn signals, and that the turn signal wires were connected to the high wattage side of the 1157 front turn signal bulb, but there was no change. I decided not to change the dash indicator back to incandescent since I like the way the LED idiot lights look. So the next step was to install an electronic flasher. I followed a combination of Paul Winterton’s 1/1/2019 photo, and that from jp5Touring 6/4/2019 above. I used the jp5Touring relay/headlight socket, and wired the pigtails with spade connectors to the vehicle relay socket as shown on Paul’s photo: #49 Violet-Green (Power from hazard switch) to relay pole “X” #49a Yellow-Green (to lights) to relay pole “L” #C White-Black (to instrument indicator light) to relay pole “P” #31 Brown (Ground) Spare With LED taillights, LED indicator light, and incandescent front signal lights, I plugged in the suggested Tridon EL-13 (equivalent to NAPA EL-13) flasher. Everything worked fine, and no misbehaving lights! I then decided to upgrade the front turn signals to dual brightness LED bulbs (SiriusLED 35W 2835 Amber). They are kind of long, but I found they could fit in the fixture. Then none of the signal lights worked with the EL-13 flasher. I exchanged the flasher relay for a Grote 44890 (Equivalent to NAPA EL-13L1 or to CEC EF-33RL). I connected the flasher’s fourth contact pigtail to ground like SpuriousPseudo’s 9/3/2018 picture, but to the vehicle socket #31. Everything now works great, with no misbehaviors. I zip-tied the result up so it was out of the way and not rattling. So for my ‘74 it looks like LEDs all around and a EL-13L1 flasher works with no issues, and visibility is hugely improved. Thank you to those who have worked through this and shared their experience!

I had an experience similar to NYNick. My ’74 tii fuel gauge went from working fine to pegged full after an extended stay at the paint shop. After trying to think what they might have done, I switched the wires to the two leads at the sending unit. I was lucky, and things went back to working fine after switching the wires. I still have no idea why a variable resistor like the sending unit would have a polarity. But I was thankful for a simple fix after having earlier wrestled with cleaning up the internals of the sending unit and adding supplemental grounds to the instrument cluster. John

Hello all, I am very new to posting on this forum, but I have been reading your posts for several years. I wanted to say “thank you” to all of you for your contributions, and the help you have been to me and to my car. Clay Weiland’s guidance on headliner installation, Chris Blumenthal’s instructions for a heater box rebuild, and countless other tips gathered along the way have been great support. My first 2002tii was 2761282 (the story is in the Registry), which was the car I kick myself for not holding onto. After over thirty-five years of hand-wringing, consoled by a series of BMW motorcycles, I was fortunate to find 2780988 (also in the Registry) in 2012. Like many, I envisioned a “buy-it-and-drive-it” plan, but it often doesn’t work out that way. It has been a journey for 2780988, and I have had lots of help. I can do simple stuff by myself, but for serious work I need the pros. There is more to do, and there probably always will be. Happy 17th birthday to the forum, and thank you again for your help!

I believe the 2002tii trunk badges for roundies can be distinguished from those for squarelights just by the position of the posts without measuring too much. In 2015 while my '74 tii was being repainted, I bought a tii badge off eBay. It was described as for a '71 to '73, but you do strange things while angsting about scope creep on rust repairs. Sure enough, when it came, it did not match the holes on my '74. Since then it has been a nice shelf ornament next to my Kyosho model 2002tii. I compared the posts on the "roundie" badge to that on my '74, and it seems that the posts on the badge for the roundies are closer to the front of the letters on the initial 2 and the second 0, and the third is on the t rather than the first i. I'm attaching some pictures below. The picture on the graph paper shows backside of my roundie badge (I believe it is 51141815197). The second image is from the Walloth and Nesch website (51141826842) and is identified as being “1973 up” and its post spacing seems to agree with what I saw looking in the trunk of my '74. I didn't pull my '74 badge off, but the pin location seems to agree with the W&N image. The third picture just shows the distances between posts for my roundie badge for information.

Sent Mark a message. John

Steve, Thanks for the feedback and for noticing the antenna! The AM/FM radio antenna on the trunk lid came with the car when I bought it. I have never seen another like it, either in Germany or in the US (and I have been looking). As you can see from the camping picture, it required a hole through the trunk lid, and it was very springy and compliant. After the first time closing the trunk, you learned where to stand so it would not slap you on the head. There were no A-pillar holes to indicate that any other antenna had ever been on the car. My under-bumper foglights were stolen during the shipment home. My driving lights and the rear fog light did not pass the VA state inspection by people not accustomed to seeing them. The "D" country sticker covers the hole where the rear fog light used to be. John 1974 2002tii 2780988 Verona