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fourtii

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Everything posted by fourtii

  1. fourtii
    3M Body Schutz it comes in clear or black( p/n 08864 in black). It's what they used back in the day...dries in 30 minutes and is hard as a rock. You will have to buy a gun, but now they have China knock offs (very cheap) and you'll need a compressor to run the gun.
  2. fourtii
    Check out wallothnesch.com -good prices, even with the shipping.
  3. fourtii
    Jaymic.com or wallothnesch.com have them (check them out online). I purchased a few for my cars.
  4. fourtii
    See below.
  5. fourtii
    Print shop huh?...that explains everything.
  6. fourtii
    Was I right on this one or what! Please read the post above.
  7. fourtii
    I figured that I would jump in again now that people are responding to my thread. The gaskets list at BMW for $200, if you make a friend with the parts manager... he will discount. The pizza box that it was shipped in says "Made in Taiwan" on the part # label, but as Steve at Blunt said; they are designed and formed much better than previously, and you will not have to trim them as you do with the trashy URO gaskets, or slam the door to close it. I know Toby will have to put his two cents in on this as he always has to have the last post in every thread.
  8. fourtii
    (nt)
  9. fourtii
    Finally the long awaited OEM door gaskets are available at your BMW dealer. They are pricey...part # 51 71 1 808 685 for the left and part # 51 71 1 808 686 for the right.
  10. fourtii
    If the key code on the barrel of the trunk lock has an "SX" on it, then yes it will be very expensive for the cut. The other codes without the "SX" are more reasonable. All 2002 keys can be ordered at any BMW dealer and will be cut by code (upon request) after you give the code number to the dealer; at the dealer warehouses across the US. You must present proof of ownership, (ie) title or registration (in your name) to the parts manager who has to place that info on file for BMW in case of an audit. If anyone needs the key blank part #'s... email me off my tab after loging on to this site and I will give you the information.
  11. fourtii
    If the car is as nice as you say...why wouldn't you clean it up and make it a "DRIVER"?
  12. fourtii
    Does the block have the original Vin # stamped on it? If it has no numbers on it, then you have a replacement long block with the year and month that was described earlier in this thread.
  13. fourtii
    No it's not, someone welded it in there.
  14. fourtii
    Log in and email me off my tab, I am interested in the cyl head that you rebuilt but never installed, thanks.
  15. fourtii
    "QUOTE" The front seams at the factory were brazed, and then leaded. If expertly done, the brazing should need little lead (or glass filler). "If you want to redo the seam in a couple of years, go ahead and just lead it". Incorrect...The front fenders had a tack braze on the top and bottom of the seam, then lead was applied over the seam. (check out the video of the Tii that was rebuilt at the factory a few years back). You will see the correct procedure for this. Stay away from any body filler as a good metal man doesn't use it as a crutch. The rear 1/4 panels are brazed in the areas of the 1/4 pop out window (under the aluminum trim piece; around the overlap where the trunk hinge mount is and tack brazed on the rear seams top and bottom. (above the tail lights). Take a course at a local community college for brazing...you'll pick up up easy and it may come in handy for other projects you may have later on. BP --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  16. fourtii
    You don't want to put plastic filler on the seams due to body flexing...it will eventually crack. Jack Fahuna calls the 2002 a "flexible flier", and he is correct. Get someone knowledgeable in leading and do it right! I have done all my resto's with lead for the past 35 years. I'm sure Toby will put his 2 cents in on this behind my post. BP
  17. fourtii
    Email sent with info.
  18. fourtii
    How about white lithium.
  19. fourtii
    Try wallothnesch.com... nice stuff, fair prices for new pieces.
  20. fourtii
    Pinkey, Glad you listened to those in the know...should have purchased the 5ES as I recommended (if you encounter radio static; get the resistor plug.) Most of these engines can use the hotter plug, especially ones with a bunch of miles on them. Thanks forum members for unanimously agreeing on this topic. B.P.
  21. fourtii
    Email sent on the clock, sub frame mounts. Please reply off my tab...make sure to log in first; thanks.
  22. fourtii
    Use NGK, it's a better plug than the Bosch and they are available almost anywhere. Check on a heat range that suits the condition of your engine. Mid heat range plugs...BP5ES or BPR5ES- has a resistor in it to eliminate any RF interference you may encounter on your radio. I'm sure I'll here from the purists out there on this suggestion.
  23. fourtii
    Log in, then email me off my tab and I can help you find a shop capable of what you're looking for locally.
  24. fourtii
    Why don't you post some pictures showing the amount of work that was involved with this repair. New parts, old parts that required hours of metal work, previous dents all over the body. Used parts supplied by you that required hours of blocking to make right. Tell the whole story, before you bad mouth the guy who held your hand through the whole ordeal and got you the insurance money. In the beginning they weren't going to pay you at all. I think you got a bargain as I have been monitoring the progress from the beginning. A little trust goes a long way...he is not going to run off with your money and would like to finish it as fast as you want it back. You wouldn't find a more qualified person for the job in No Cal than him. I've known him for years, he has been doing 2002's since the 70's. All that's left to do is polish and put it back together, what is there not to see at this point?
  25. fourtii
    Contact me off my email tab, but make sure you're logged in first in order for it to work. I have a '73 rust free hood.
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