Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

7 Neutral


About pinkey

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have a brand new in the package Uro windshield weatherstripping (part number 51 31 7 440 104). I recently received a bag of random weatherstripping from a friend and no longer need this one. Asking $30.00 plus shipping. I work for a company that sells Toyota parts so I can get a discounted price on shipping costs and will pass those savings on to the buyer. (retail price is around 40 bucks plus tax and shipping obviously.) PayPal accepted.
  2. As the title states I am looking for an M10 crank pulley with minimal belt grooves (preferably only 1). Seems that the later ones have 3+ grooves for accessories. I only run 1 belt for water pump/alternator. PayPal ready. Thanks in advance!
  3. Odd request but looking for a crank pulley from an M10. One with minimal belt grooves. (Seems the later ones had 3+ grooves to run multiple accessories) let me know what you have. TIA!
  4. Just wanted to update everyone after I got a chance to take another look at things yesterday. Toby was right. I took a look at the driveshaft, diff, CV's and Wheel bearings. Sure enough it was the passenger rear wheel bearing. I pulled it apart and the splines were virtually gone. I can't believe that I didn't notice it before. I feel silly for overlooking it. Anyway, I was able to torque the castle nut down real tight and take it around the block. sure enough the shifting under accel/decel was gone. However, I am still concerned about how tight my driveshaft is up against my diff. as I mentioned earlier in this thread in response to Buckeye. I still need an alignment as well. My solution to sourcing a new stub shaft and hub was to buy an entire rear subframe from my local BMW parts friend and just swap the control arm bushings and brakes etc. from my current subframe over to these "new" control arms. Thanks again to everyone who was willing to respond with their thoughts and wisdom. I am truly grateful for this community. If anyone has any thoughts on my driveshaft/diff situation it would be much appreciated. Thanks! 20190927_212102.mp4
  5. The thrust arms that connect the subframe to the body are installed as well as the sway bar. At the time of the photo the jack stands were in the way so I just bolted up some washers to keep the bushings together until I could get the car on the ground. I will post an updated picture with any additional information I can find out as soon as I get a chance to crawl under there. Thank you all for the replies and so many ideas for me to look at and double check. Without this forum and the wealth of knowledge it has I am not sure I would be able to own my car!
  6. I have yet to take it to an alignment shop. This was just the initial drive for about 15 min. or so. I will be doing that in the next few days. I was worried that they would struggle to align it properly if things are still moving around. One of my CV's seems to have a little movement in it. back and forth between the hub and diff. I will have to look into why it is able to move compared to the other one that is movement free. It seems to me that the shifting back and forth symptom could definitely be a wheel bearing as that would allow a wheel(s) to shift and cause some rear steering action. They seemed fine but a through inspection is now a must. The front is not in the best shape. Not terrible (always has tracked straight, no shimmys or slop in steering) but a refresh up front is next on the list. The guibo and trans mount are probably a year to 18 months old. the center support is definitely older than that.
  7. A great point. I should have pinpointed the problem before diving in. I will get back under there tomorrow.
  8. I was careful to make sure the bushings went in the correct orientation. I referenced the YouTube video that was made awhile back. This is a great diagram! going in the 2002 folder on my computer for sure! I did leave the bolts loose at "C" and "D" when attaching the driveshaft, before installing I made sure to pull the diff as far back (to the rear) as I could, the flanges on the rear diff cover seemed to butt up against the studs coming down from the diff support bracket "D". Despite it being all the way back the driveshaft was butted up against the input shaft of the diff pretty good (took some force to get it aligned). Maybe there is a way to get the diff to sit a little further back and have it naturally slide forward when I bolt it up against the drive line. (not sure what else I could loosen up to let that happen. Hope that makes sense.
  9. I am super bummed. I have worked very hard in my little spare time between work and school and finally finished my full rear sub-frame overhaul. New bushings, adjustable Posi-lock from IE, 3.90 LSD etc. etc. The catalyst that started this expensive project was the famous "my car is wanting to change lanes when I get on/off the gas pedal" plus the diff sounded like it was starting to clunk around. I just drove it after getting everything back together and all of the symptoms are still there!!! the shifting when on/off throttle, occasional clunking when I go from drive to reverse and back again. The only thing that was not replaced that I can think of is the bolts that come down from the trunk and go through the center of the sub-frame mount bushings. Any thoughts? maybe the actual sub-frame mount boxes welded to the body are rusty? they seemed fine when I inspected them. Please help! I am super bummed and not sure what else it could possibly be. Hopefully I just missed a bolt somewhere... I will get back under there tomorrow and make sure everything is nice and tight. P.S. Any good ways to test if the sub-frame is shifting or moving around? TIA
  10. Looking to buy an early (short) fuel sending unit. Based on my research the early ones are approx. 7 7/8" and the late style ones are 8 7/8" in length. The switch occurred somewhere in mid 1973 I believe. 1974 and on for sure. I have attached a picture of my current (broken) unit for reference. Thanks!
  11. PM'd about fuel level sending unit.
  12. Thanks for the replies. I think that the key point brought up is to make sure they are not coming loose in the future. After I receive an alignment I will mark the bolts with a paint marker so I can keep an eye on them.
  13. So I am finishing up my refresh of the rear sub-frame complete with the IE Posi-lock camber and toe adjusters. My question is how tight to I tighten the bolts that go through the control arms and secure the locking plates in place? After some searching I have not been able to find anything. Should I just use the stock spec? I obviously do not want them to move out of adjustment if I hit a bump or anything like that. TIA for all of your help! P.S. I could always email Ireland and will on Monday but I would like to hear what you folks think.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.