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Conserv

Alpina
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Everything posted by Conserv

  1. AJ, The engines were designed to rev. And even though overdrive transmissions had already been around for decades, BMW’s engineers never made an overdrive transmission available from the factory on an ‘02. Why? because everything that happens on an ‘02’s M10 happens above 3,500 rpms. Yes, if your daily driver is turning 2,000 rpms at 70 mph, an occasional drive in an ‘02 — 4,000 rpms at 70 with my ‘76’s original 3.90 differential — may seem a bit...busy! But deal with your exhaust leaks so you can actually drive the car now! The more you drive it, the less you notice the...busy-ness! As stated above, make certain you have 20W-50 oil in the car. Feel free to overhaul the carb (Solex or Weber), if it’s not been overhauled in the last 4 years or 40,000 miles — hint, odds are that it’s not been. Even when you do a “performance build” on a 2002, there are elements that could carryover. One thought is the following. There is a strong movement towards the electronic “123 distributor”. Find some of the long, endlessly-raving threads discussing it on this forum. If you think it might appeal to you, buy it now. You can tune it to your car’s current state, and it will eliminate a common “high-mileage M10” ailment: the distributors are worn, have lots of slop, and have lost their original advance/retard curves. When your engine has new pistons, higher compression, a hotter cam, etc., you’ll just use the 123’s app to adjust the curve for the “new M10”. Welcome to ‘02’s, and don’t be afraid to rev an M10. I contend that anything less than 2,500 rpms is lugging the engine and no one wants to do that.... ? Regards, Steve
  2. And of course even the 1974 2002 turbos had to...endure the rectangular spare tire hold-down, designed for the earlier steel rims. Below, VIN’s 4290376 and 4290675, respectively, reveal their spares with rectangular hold-downs. Notice that the first owner, perhaps tired of the bad fit, flipped the hold-down upside down! Regards, Steve
  3. This is the standard rim for the factory turbo, and only the factory turbo. In outward appearance, it strongly resembles the styled steel rims standard on other square taillight ‘02’s. It differs in width and offset. No other 2002 sub-models received factory rims wider than 5” (Italy and England had country-specific dealer-option alloy rims available in a 5.5” width, by FPS and Dunlop, respectively). The factory option rim for a turbo was a 6” alloy rim, manufactured by both Mahle and FPS. The “turbo rim” was also distinguished from other styled steel rims by a bi-color paint scheme: at least the front face of the barrel was painted the traditional silver. But the front face of the center disk was painted gray. Part number 36111112607 appears on most (all?) of these “turbo” rims. The current OEM parts catalogue shows part number 36111112632. A note regarding authenticity of “turbo rims”: The Euro-spec e21 was introduced in the spring of 1975 (in approximately March 1975), in 316 and 320 versions. These cars used a styled steel rim, 5.5” x 13”, ET18, identical in appearance and specs to the 2002 turbo’s standard rims. But the part number for this e21 rim appears to be 36111116430. I do not know why this part number differed from the part number for the turbo’s rims. Could replacement turbo rims have been bi-color from the factory? I think it is certainly possible — maybe even likely — and that might explain the different part numbers. The U.S.-spec e21, in its 320i version, appeared in the U.S. in approximately August 1976. Thus, in the U.S., styled steel rims in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size are generally dated June 1976 and later. But, in Europe, styled steel rims in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size, can be dated to approximately February 1975 or later. What does this mean for turbo owners? It means simply that a styled steel rim in the 5.5” x 13”, ET18, size with a date stamp prior to February 1975 is almost certainly an original “turbo rim”. But for similar rims date stamped from February 1975 onward, it would be hard to distinguish a “turbo rim” from an early “e21 rim” — unless there was a clear provenance provided by, for instance, an original owner, photographs, documents, etc. The first photo below is from an original factory brochure. The second through fifth photos are of VIN 4290376 (manufactured April 19, 1974), photos from Bring A Trailer. The sixth through eighth photos are of VIN 4290675 (manufactured May 1974), photos from Bring A Trailer. 36111116430
  4. Scott, If you see orange peel on a panel, it's been re-painted post-factory. The original lacquer was dead smooth. Regards, Steve
  5. Lacquer. Single-stage. Regards, Steve
  6. I agree wholeheartedly. I've asked several times if anyone can provide, if not a numeric paint reference, then simply a good photo of an original rim with the dark gray paint. Generally, the answer is, "I thought the centers were black." Not much help. Has yours worn thin from too much weather, too much time, too many washings? A darker color appears to survive in the more protected areas. And...is the center disk paint laid on top of the rim's basic silver paint? Stated differently, did they start with a silver rim? Are the backs silver or black, or some other color? Thanks and regards, Steve
  7. Geez... Now every time I see a couple salvage buses and a six-wheel road grader, I’m going to be thinking “Alpina Borrani?”..... ? Regards, Steve
  8. The silver paint BMW (and other German manufacturers) used on rims was “anything lying around”, but was generally close to what you now might get from Wurth’s Wheel Silver or Krylon’s Dull Aluminum. Having spent the last 42 years with my Polaris 1976, I have always been annoyed that the silver rims did not match the silver body! Besides being a lower quality than the (Glasurit) body paint — the body paint being two-stage at least beginning with the PVC-frei version of mid-1973 — the silver of the rims was much less “metallic” (very few metal flakes) than Polaris metallic and was considerably less glossy. Regards, Steve
  9. Someone needs to dig out the c.d. “spring” post, and see if there is anything relevant in there: Based in on the wire thickness and free length, the turbo’s rear springs sound like the heavy duty 2002 springs, targeted at trailer towing — see c.d.’s post. Best regards, Steve
  10. But to be clear, Les, although both were manufactured by CMR, the Boston rims are steel rims, welded together. They’re also not an Alpina item. The Alpina Borrani’s are all alloy, riveted together with steel rivets. The ET40 of the Boston rims is going to take a hefty spacer, but they could be made to work, and might provide some space for a car with the Big-Brakes. Best regards, Steve
  11. Moi? Jealous? Envious? Coveting? Well, now that you mention it: jealous as all hell! ?? Best regards, Steve
  12. ET20, based on my measurement of the lone example in my collection! Fabulous find! Congrats, Steve
  13. Conserv

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    Some clever person — I am not he — could look up that KBA number (40235?) and probably quickly determine the owner of the design and the manufacturer. I Googled it to no success! GLWS, Steve
  14. Conserv

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    Any markings on the reverse? Regards, Steve
  15. Now this is the biggest surprise application of all, Andrew. I’ve pictured them on the more...posh models. Absolutely brilliant! Best regards, Steve
  16. But for a Yank, that will just mean that the Brits won the war.... ? Best regards, Steve
  17. I’ve also seen these on the older cars, Chris. Perhaps the 4 digits on my ‘76’s rear seat support are a replacement for these radiator support apron numbers? Best regards, Steve
  18. +1 I have the same complaint, Les! Here’s a theory. As with most of my theories, I’m pulling this out of....the air.... ? The LHD OEM visors went NLA many years ago (by “LHD”, I mean no mirror on the left side, mirror on the right side). For some unknown reason, BMW appeared to have RHD OEM visors available for the last decade. I have a pair which I bought from BMW perhaps five years ago. Maybe someone accidentally over-ordered or mis-ordered RHD visors, or the manufacturer over-estimated demand for RHD visors. The scene is set. Lots (perhaps a majority?) of ‘02 owners, seeing the RHD visor sets available for the last decade, may not realize that a mirror on the left, no mirror on the right is a RHD set. They may not realize that there were LHD and RHD sets. Did the party reproducing the visors realize they were producing a RHD set? I’d wager they didn’t. I’ve dragged my feet about installing my OEM RHD set precisely because they are RHD. As with a 123 distributor, I figure I’ll eventually cave.... ? Best regards, Steve
  19. Ray, Jake, and anyone else who can provide a photo of a VIN on that rear seat support, please provide the car’s manufacturing date, if you have one — and provide the car’s VIN if there is any ambiguity to the stamping. At present, we have no real sense of whether this extra stamped VIN is a function of the car’s manufacturing date, or what.... Thanks and best regards, Steve
  20. From a July 1967 1600-2 brochure, not a great image, but something... Second small vignette from the left. I’m fairly confident my ‘67 had this style boot, and that was back in the day. Regards, Steve
  21. Ed, A bunch of U.S. Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury models also offered it as an option in the late ‘80’s/early ‘90’s(?). My mother had a 1988(?) Mercury Sable with the option and it was far superior to a traditional windshield defroster on a cold morning. You could recognize the cars from a distance as the the windshields had a yellowish-purplish opacity (not a good look) from many exterior angles. I thought the system in that instance was a conductive coating, or possibly a layer embedded into the laminated windshield. Given the ‘02’s weak defrosting capability, sounds like a neat idea. Might have to upgrade that alternator.... ? Best regards, Steve
  22. Interesting car: Turf used to be somewhat common among early (well, maybe just ‘67) 1600-2’s in my neck of the woods — that would be Southeastern, PA in those days. Now I rarely see it. It was carried over from the NK sedans. The passenger door card suggests this car had a gray interior originally (the headrest front seats are 1969 or later). This, Turf with gray interior, was a very cool combo! This example retains many of the 1967 1600-2 features: outside rearview mirror at leading edge of door, two-spoke steering wheel, chrome-trimmed dashboard, silver bezel on the instrument cluster, remote power brake booster, and, of course, 6-volt electricals. If the VIN is 1517833, I’d guess this is a February 1967 example. Regards, Steve
  23. Hmmm... I don’t suppose you have a photo, Ray? I haven’t seen this in other cars, but maybe I just haven’t looked closely.... ? Below is the only photo I can find of the left side of that seat support, laid bare, for either the ‘73 or ‘76. This happens to be the ‘76. Am I looking at the correct spot? (There do appear to be four numbers stamped into that upper face — 8736? — albeit they don’t seem to relate to the VIN — 2742541, in this instance.) An extra VIN stamp certainly would be useful in some instances! Best regards, Steve
  24. Andrew, It certainly fooled me. I won’t dispute this — although I’m an old plumbing fan and have lots of new and old polished nickel in my home’s bathrooms, none of which is quite as “warm yellow” as my original jogged ends — but...how do you know this? I do recall that the right trunk board’s tiny hold-down screws were nickel-plated, confounding those who guessed they were chrome-plated. Best regards, Steve
  25. If something happened, I don’t believe it had anything to do with traditional car thieves. Here’s a hypothetical: It’s 1985. Joe Blow owns Car A, a 1969 2002 with a rusted-out body. It does, however, have a clean title. Joe Blow happens across Car B, a 1969 2002 with a VIN very close to Car A. But Car B has no title, a salvage title, or an abandoned car title. Joe thinks, “Who’s going to care if I apply Car A’s VIN to Car B?” Car A, a rusted out Bristol car with a title, is worth $200 — it’s 1985, for heaven’s sake. Car B, legitimized with Car A’s title, would be worth all of $1,000 — it’s 1985, for heaven’s sake! The inner fender VIN tag is transferred over. The steering column VIN tag is transferred over. A small patch and a little work “fixes” the inner fender’s chassis VIN. Car B’s engine is good but, darn it, has its original engine number. Joe grinds off the engine number, grinds off the casting date from the head — he’s not a concours judge and not exactly certain what he’s doing. Et voila! Car B has assumed Car A’s title. Life goes on just fine, until 2018, when a bunch of overly-critical old-car nerds start examining Car A, or should we refer to it as Car B? Regards, Steve
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