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Gil. H.

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Everything posted by Gil. H.

  1. Gil. H.
    I'm out.....Have a public hearing that evening that I forgot about. Next time. Thanks. Gilbert.
  2. Gil. H.
    I'm good for this Thursday.
  3. Gil. H.
    Sorry I missed the last meeting. Let's try again in June. Need to get Jason P out there as well. Regards. gilbert.
  4. Gil. H.
    "Where Are We Going? And Why Am I in This Handbasket?"
  5. Gil. H.
    Looking for a black cluster housing with good circuits for the instrument lights. My original has some of the light circuits broken. I don't need the instruments, just the housing. Please let me know if you've got one available. Thanks. Location: Austin
  6. Gil. H.
    Thanks, Did the normal checks with a multimeter and found no current. I think there's a break in the circuit, just need to find out where and solder.
  7. Gil. H.
    Anyone already thinking about how to mount the display? I like the idea of converting the Seat Belt light, but interested to hear if anyone is considering alternative mount points or housings. At Mid America, Mike Self and I were talking and he mentioned that dash mount is probably the best, keeping eyes on the road.
  8. Gil. H.
    I'm in 1. GoFaSSter 2. Henrygabs 3. Lilcphoto 4. PG7202 5. 2002dean 6. GAHRNDEZ
  9. Gil. H.
    Weeknights are usually good for me.
  10. Gil. H.
    Not meaning to hijack....., alright I'm high jacking the thread. I was doing to instrument cluster maintenance yesterday and the instrument light that sits bottom between the temp/speedo is out. It's one of the circuit board powered lights. Does anyone have any experience troubleshooting these "printed" light sockets? All other lights are fine, this one is the only one that's not working. I did the normal cleaning, etc. Thanks.
  11. Gil. H.
    I've been following this and other similar threads on ignition for some time now. I switched from points to a hot spark about 6 months ago and noticed improvement with a more consistent idle and better acceleration. First thing was to get the carb and timing as spot on as possible. I thought this was as good as it would get, idle was consistent and response was decent, but I'd still bog down ever so slightly. I recently purchased and installed a Mark Ten B, CDI ignition, I know "Old Skool", but it's made things better still. Car starts on a 1/4 turn in the morning, instant smooth idle and performance is best I've ever been able to dial in. Picked it off of Craiglist and installed it in about 30 minutes, easy-peasy. As good as an MSD or Crane, I dunno? But I've got something that works for less than 1/3 the price of the other two and the changes I've made can be reversed quickly and easily if something goes down. Again, the FAQ has been invaluable in helping me figure out the best combinations and setups.
  12. Gil. H.
    Well done. Excellent display and search functions. Thanks.
  13. Gil. H.
    I buy truck rated jacks and stands, overkill, but as others have said, better to be over cautious. Department of Redundancy Department.
  14. Gil. H.
    Muffler is fine. Thanks for the photo. I'll check the setup length as well.
  15. Gil. H.
    J. I replaced the m/c as it was leaking badly and noticed that it had no bushings. So the play was always there and I thought it was normal. I've ordered the bushings so that I can get it setup properly.
  16. Gil. H.
    Thanks everyone. Now I know what to get, I couldn't really see it on the OEM diagrams. Best. GAH
  17. Gil. H.
    Here's a photo of the clutch M/C pushrod. It's been made larger, oval, due to the original pushrod diameter being larger than the bolt that secures the pushrod to the pedal bracket. If the hole in the pushrod was the same size as the securing bolt, then this wouldn't be an issue. But since it's slightly larger, it takes additional force that deforms the pushrod, appears to be made of aluminum. Anyone know if there's a bushing that I'm missing or is this the wrong size rod connector for this m/c. Thanks. GAH
  18. Gil. H.
    I replaced my clutch master cylinder yesterday and noticed that the connecting bolt that goes through the pedal and master cylinder pushrod is a different size. The pushrod diameter is larger than the securing bolt. Am I missing a bushing or have the wrong master cylinder(Installed an FTE)? This is the second replacement in as many years. Not too hard a job, just HATE the upper bolt. I did notice that the opening on the the pushrod I just replaced had elongated (became an oval) due to the difference in size to the securing bolt. There was enough play that it deformed the opening in the pushrod. So, I want to get this addressed. Any insight is appreciated.
  19. Gil. H.
    Debbie and Terry are really good about keeping the local BMW folks active. BMW repair is not a job, but a vocation and we're lucky to have them here in Austin.
  20. Gil. H.
    mike there's one of the FAQ parts for sale.
  21. Gil. H.
    Hey. There's a 3rd Base Sports bar right next to the 5 Guys there in Round Rock. Want to meet there around 6:00? Parking should be easy and we can grab a pint or 2.....
  22. Gil. H.
    An Alfa Guy here is Austin has done this a couple of times. He's got the time and cash to research so he's not going low end on price. Even with all the due diligence, things still went wrong. Here's the link, it'ls a long thread, but worth the read. Enjoy. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/aroc-thc-alfa-romeo-owners-club-texas-hill-country/178333-wheres-benjamin.html
  23. Gil. H.
    How about this Thursday after work? I'm downtown but can travel up to the great white north..... Pick a place.
  24. Gil. H.
    NGK http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/110024-spark-plugs-bosch-vs-ngk/ Regards.
  25. Gil. H.
    Thanks guys for the info. Appears that adjusting the idle is the easiest way to go. But the solenoid option is interesting. Went online and the found the solenoid for around $25.00, making a bracket might be the challenge. Idle adjustment for now. Regards. g.
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