Hans
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Everything posted by Hans
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No longer a moron!! Lock tab mystery solved
Hans replied to worzella's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
My understanding is that the numbers (1 - 4) on the rod and cap go on the same side. Bearings would then follow. -
Try Pelican for 90mm pistons.
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See what is on the back of the transmission, and go from there. You can have a 4 bolt front on a three bolt rear. A 5 speed CR fits in CS with minimal hammering as I recall
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If you do need to send anything, better to use USPS because often Canada Post will just drop at your door. UPS and Fedex often whack you with a brokerage fee. I suggest you try Canadian Tire first, or bigger parts chains.
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Thanks. Is there a problem boring out to 1 mm over?
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Try early VW bug.
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What are the options for replacement pistons with under 10.1 CR these days? For 121 head? For E12 head? Not a tii.
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Part 34211159587 fits 2000s and turbo. New BMW part. $35 plus shipping. -
I agree - make sure ignition side is all to spec before attacking the carb. As to the occasional fast idle, I would check all the linkages, especially the fast idle cam that operates with the choke. Make sure that they all move smoothly with out binding. When it goes to fast idle, try gently "tapping' the gas pedal to see if it pops back to normal. It could also be a vacuum leak, but sounds more like intermittent binding. The diaphragm adjusts the timing and duration of the choke plate closing and the fast idle. When the motor is cold, pull air cleaner top, and move gas pedal linkage as if the pedal was going down. The choke plate should close and the fast idle cam move. As engine warms up, plate closes and cam turns back.
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If memory serves, later signal units fit, and the tips screw off. I have Bavaria switches on both sides.
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What Toby said. You need to seat the center bearing before torquing the center cap by rocking the crank back and forth to get the center bearing lined up top to bottom. Check the manual. Are you familiar with Plastigage?
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Do you mean front to back?
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Very nice!! Weren't those Bav boxes two piece (separate bell housing)? Seems to me I have a bell housing in the garage that I was saving for some project.
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89.46. Maybe I'm thinking of small block Ford for 4 thou. I know BMW s are fine tolerances, but I don't see anything in the manuals about max - just initial.
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Second over size stock 9.3. The shop says current clearance is .0045 in - 4.5 thou. I have 4 thou floating in my memory archives as max allowable....
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What is the maximum piston to bore clearance please?
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Try jacking the back up in a quiet place, and turn the wheels.
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The hoses should be OK then. These are new struts - with new caliper mounting ears? Even then, the pistons should be able to adjust to some off center mounting I would think. Maybe try bleeding or at least releasing the bleed nipples to see if it's just residual pressure. Unless you can see something actually fouling the rotor or the rotor is way off center
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How old are the hoses?
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EGR removal, plugging the exhaust manifold
Hans replied to cliffwarren@yahoo.com's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
I used Canadian pennies inside those nuts on my old Bavaria. Lasted for many years. Happy to send a few. -
Before you set too carried away, did it start OK before you took the carb apart? As suggested, you may have seriously flooded it, which would make it hard to start. Are you familiar with the technique of holding the pedal on the floor while turning over motor to clear flooding? On the idle front, it could be choke fast idle mechanism sticking, or some other binding of the linkage.
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the picture doesn't show how you reassembled the needle valve. Suggest you remove float and show how needle looks.
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tii may be different from carb, and yes, head set is separate from block set, but on Pelican parts there was a reference to before/after a serial number, even thought PN was the same. I believe the 121 head set is different from later heads,
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The ground wire being the small brown one from alt to front of head? Normally, if the alt is not charging for whatever reason, the battery ends up running the car until there is no more juice for coil, etc. But you would see the alt warning light in most cases. In your case, the car stopped suddenly, and started again, so battery was not dead. I've heard of alts shorting out - not sure how that would produce your symptoms. I wouldn't argue with him; I'd ask how bad alt would create your situation.
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Unless I'm missing something, a healthy battery will keep the engine going even if the alternator stops working. How did you get the car started again? Maybe I need more coffee, but I'd be intersted in hearing his diagnostic logic.
