Preyupy

You have to set the distributor at 0 degrees if you want the advance you put into the map to be correct. The distributor has no idea where it is set in relation to the engine. If you set the advance in the distributor to 25 degrees and then check it with a timing light you need to rotate the distributor until it is actually at 25 degrees. From that point on you can do everything on the computer. You can set the distributor anywhere you want but you need to add or subtract the initial timing offset to your map to know what you realy are running.

I don't know what the inside of the MSD distributor looks like but I would think that figuring out how to lock the advance should be simple enough. You might look and see if you can drill and pin the advance weights so they can't move (reversable if you decide to go back) If you have access to a lathe you might machine a different stop that does not allow it to advance at all (like the ones that come with the distributor but large enough to stop the weights from moving instead of only allowing 10-15-20 deg) I would use 25 deg just because you have a good 25 deg mark on the flywheel (the ball) and you don't need an adjustable timing light to set the base timing. You can always use your 7 degree base timing you just need to remember it when you are looking at the timing curve in the computer. Whatever you do have an idle advance that is stable from about 800-1400 rpm so you don't have an issue with trying to set a stable idle when you have the timing changing with every 100 rpm of speed change.

How did you decide on 28deg of total advance, especially at 5000+ feet of elevation? And I am assuming you have checked the timing with a light. I usually lock the curve at 25 degrees and check it at multiple RPM and make sure it is dead on. Then you have a proper reference to 0 degrees and you can do everything with the laptop from there.

Or you could log onto your 123 app on your phone remove 2 degrees of advance between 5000 and 6000 rpm as you are driving down the street.

Getting all fancy with ignition timing is not going to find you a lot of performance advantage (unless you are WAY OFF BASE to begin with) It will have more to do with drivability than anyting. Stumbles and surging are the most common problem if you are to far off the ideal advance. You can spend a ton of money and time and when it is all said and done you might find 1-3% at any RPM point. The trick is getting it set and having it be reliable.

The programable units like the MSD 6AL-2 or the 123 make it really easy. Install the distributor, put the car on a dyno and lock the curve at 5 degree increments and make runs then compare all of them and figure out how much advance is optimum at each rpm then program THAT curve into the system. Start at 15 deg and keep going up until you see the TQ/HP fall off then back up a couple of degrees and leave it there. You can then modify the curve using the MAP sensor based on throttle/manifold vacuum for drivability. This is a ton easier than trying springs and weights in a distributor. Some engines even like more advance around peak torque than they like at peak HP and you can't get a spring/weight advance mechanism to advance then retard.

Sit down and do the math. The real numbers you need to think about for a track car is the RPM gap between the gears. This is something you can't change between tracks, you can always change the final drive based on the longest straight or fastest section of the tack. The difference between a 245/5 (over drive box) and a 245/10 (close ratio box) if you shift at 7000 rpm the RPM in the next higher gear is: 245/5: 1st - 2nd gear 3200 rpm drop, 2nd - 3rd 2200 rpm drop, 3rd -4th 1700 rpm drop, 4th - 5th 1200 rpm drop 245/10 1st- 2nd gear 2600 rpm drop, 2nd - 3rd 2100 rpm drop, 3rd - 4th 1600 rpm drop, 4th - 5th 1300 rpm drop Then think about the top speed in each gear once you have figured out what gear you need for the top speed you will need for that track. Say you need a 130MPH gear for the straight. If you have a 7000 rpm limit you would want a 4.6:1 final drive ratio if you are running the 245/5 OD Box this would give you MPH/7000 rpm in each gear 1st/28 2nd/53 3rd/80 4th/106 5th/131 If you are running the 245/10 CR box you would need a 3.64:1 final drive and you would have MPH/7000 rpm 1st/36 2nd/58 3rd/83 4th/109 5th/134 As you can see there is not a significant difference in effective gear ratios other than 1st gear (transmission ratio X final drive ratio) between the 2 transmissions. If I was choosing a transmission for a race car I would get ratios that drop the rpms between gears of roughly the rpm drop from MAX HP to MAX TORQUE of the engine I am running. I would also have a 1st gear that is a usable ratio on track ( the slowest corner on the track should be 1st gear) as long as you are not doing standing starts. For the cost of changing the transmisson from one to the other (245/10's are really expensive these days) and then the cost of getting the correct final drive there are a ton of other things you can do to make your car faster for a lot less money. If you are starting from scratch and don't have a trans or diff then do it right the 1st time.

That is a 118 head, it is used on a 1600 or early 1800 engine. Small valves, small intake and exhaust ports.

Probably because they added the larger rear brakes. The Turbo rear drums were the same as the e21 320i but used a larger slave cylinder ( same as used on the e9 2800’s with rear drums.

They use a different ramp angle and don't rely on spring preload to initiate the locking action.

I bought three 75% Alpina limited slip units from Miller and Norburn in 1975 for use in Solo II cars. I still have all three and they work fantastic. There is no preload/break away torque, on the bench they act like an open differential, but apply a bit of power and drive around a cul-de-sac and it acts like a locker. I have them fitted in 3.45, 3.64, and 4.11 diffs now.

Or someone used them to jack up the front of the car a few times.

At some point the value of a 2002 was low enough that a bent bumber and grill might have been enough to "total" the car. Someone could have bought it back put on a new bumper and grill and all good again but the title would still have a "rebuilt" lable on it.

It is a 48 year old car that has been repainted and modified. The value is not changed by the "rebuilt title". The car is what it is and an inspection will show what condition the car is in. If someone wants to mark it down because of the "rebuilt" title just wait for someone that really knows the cars to come and look at it. In my opinion the car is worth what it is worth and the "rebuilt" title should not change anythig.

The Turbos used a 55mm pipe for the center resonator and back. I know that the parts list shows that the Tii used a different center and rear muffler than the standard 2002 but we could never see a difference back in the day when we looked at them side by side. All of the aftermarket systems were the same for the 2002 and Tii models. Even the later 1600 models used the same exhaust including the down pipe (obviously there was a difference between the 1600, 2002, and Tii exhaust manifolds.)

I was going to recommend Norbert as well. If the car was in Germany in the 80's it could be anywhere by now. It is not a VIN that I remember seeing.

The multiple disc clutches are great for torque capacity but don’t deal with heat very well. The discs are thin and don’t have a long life expectancy in a street car. If you get them hot they tend to warp then you have chatter and problems getting them to fully release. As far as getting a clutch to work with different transmissions you just need to order the discs based on the input shaft spline size. All of these clutches are the same diameter and thickness so putting a disc that fits on the JH input shaft in a pressure plate that fits on the BMW flywheel is easy. The big trick is finding a pilot bearing that fits in the BMW crankshaft and on the JH input shaft. The real trick is going to be coming up with a way to adapt the transmission to the engine block. The bell housing isn’t even close ( and just FYI, the JH is designed with a cable operated clutch that is operated on the RIGHT side of the gearbox. It also uses a completely different output flange and the splines on the shaft are different so you can’t swap flanges)

The real problem with a 95.5mm bore is the engine has a 100mm bore spacing ( center>center) that leaves only 4.5mm between the bores for the gasket to seal. There just isn’t enough space to make a gasket strong enough to not move and eventually fail. Even the old “Cooper Rings” that were common on some of the race engines back in the 50’s & 60’s needed more room than that. Look at a Cometic gasket and see how they emboss a shape into the gasket that then gets pressed flat when the head and block are torqued together. This forces the gasket to conform to both surfaces to geez them sealed. At 4.5 mm there just isn’t enough room for them to do that. There are some engines that just use an imbedded sealing ring around the top of the cylinder bore to seal the combustion gases and then either a thin sheet copper gasket to seal the water and oil passages or no gasket at all. This is something that needs to be considered when the engine block and head are being machined, before assembly.

They are different, the spacing between the oil holes and C-clip groves are the same but the intake and exhaust have notches for the retaining plate at the front and you can't switch them.

There are no significant differences between a LHD EUROPEAN model 1974 TII and 1974-1975 Turbo wiring harness. The only difference I can think of is the added instrument light for the boost gauge. If your car has one of the electric sunroofs or headlight washer/wiper systems those were add on to the standard harness. The USA spec wiring harness for a square tail light Tii has a few of changes from the LHD Euro car. Specifically, front running lamps (glow bulbs in headlights instead of in the turn signals) and parking lights (L/R with turn signal switch with key off). Seat belt buzzers etc.

Maybe they calibrated their Dyno in Shetland Ponies, certainly not Clydesdales. It is a beautiful car based on the pictures. Sure would like to see the underside. IF they are making their Peak torque of 158 lb/ft at 6500 rpm they would be making 195 HP. A 336 cam usualy makes maximum torque at 6000 rpm and starts to fall off so if they are getting 200 it has to be in the 7000+ rpm range. A NA 2 liter M10 engine that makes 200 real HP isn't a very nice street car engine to drive on a daily basis. Yes I know about Honda S2000 engines @240 Hp NA 2 liter. They also have a factory redline of 8800 rpm, and 4 valves/cyl.

If you are going to use a pressure washer cover the vent in the top of the case, you don't want to get water into the trans (it is hard to get out without changing the oil 2-3 times) if it is on the bench change the shift shaft seal while you are there.

The Elva and Chevron race cars that used the M10 engine used them as well, so the distributor didn't stick out of the body. Lester Owen makes a really nice one.

Or send it to North Hollywood Speedometer for repair North Hollywood Speedometer Repair - NH Speedometer WWW.NHSPEEDOMETER.COM We perform Conversions, Calibration and Customization of your gauges, Concourse level restoration of speedometers, tachometer, clocks and automotive gauges.

I have been using that pan for a lot of years on the Wet Sump race engines and it does a great job, the scraper is a help as well. I think I even have a spare sitting on the shelf. Having the MS not turn on the ignition until you have oil pressure just means you are going to work your battery and starter harder every you start the engine. It will take the same number of crankshaft rotations BEFORE you get pressure. The difference between if there are explosions going on in the combustion chambers or not is insignificant. Other than the top half of the rod bearings nothing else has an increased or decreased load (cam, rockers, main bearings etc) of any significance for the few moments before oil pressure is up.