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nbristow01

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Everything posted by nbristow01

  1. nbristow01
    I thought it might be the master cylibder . I didn't know the pedal was adjustable but I did notice that I would engage at halfway in. Do you think the difference in height was due to bad cylinders or something else? The height difference is not due to a bad master. It is due to incorrect adjustment. Trust me I have been down this exact same road. You may want to adjust that pedal out to the same height and see how she works. I am not sure where I got the first 2 MCs from but my last one I got from BLUNT and it worked fine. Both times mine started doing it just after the year mark on age. I run a 5 speed but it makes no difference. I seriously doubt it is the hose. If the hose was expanding some you would not lose all pressure when you barely press the pedal...that MC is bypassing.
  2. nbristow01
    have had this exact same issue twice. If you rest your foot on the clutch pedal very softly press it will go to the floor with no resistance. If you press quickly with force it will work. Both times I had to install nw clutch masters because they were bleeding by(confirmed both times by a real mechanic, not just me). One thing to make sure of when you install the new one is that the clutch pedal is the same height as the brake pedal. I had my clutch pedal about an inch lower (not sure why)when I had this issue both times. On the new clutch master I adjusted it out so that the clutch pedal and brake pedal are even. Has worked great so far. So order a new one from BLUNT and adjust it...should fix it
  3. nbristow01
    I have had this exact same issue twice. If you rest your foot on the clutch pedal very softly press it will go to the floor with no resistance. If you press quickly with force it will work. Both times I had to install nw clutch masters because they were bleeding by(confirmed both times by a real mechanic, not just me). One thing to make sure of when you install the new one is that the clutch pedal is the same height as the brake pedal. I had my clutch pedal about an inch lower (not sure why)when I had this issue both times. On the new clutch master I adjusted it out so that the clutch pedal and brake pedal are even. Has worked great so far. So order a new one from BLUNT and adjust it...should fix it
  4. nbristow01
    PN 33531104073...need 2 used ones. Mine pretty much fell apart today, dry rotter at the tops. Great way to bend a traling arm without them. It is the rubber absorbed that fits inside the rear coil springs, attaches at the top
  5. nbristow01
    Man I bet that is a fun drive!!! I hope he takes a ton of pics to post
  6. nbristow01
    what I've done... ...twice. t I just ran in a cirlce LOL
  7. nbristow01
    The complete swap with all parts, shaft included, for a 5 sped swap runs over $1000.00. Guys locally have gievn away 4 speed trannys. So if it is just a 3rd fun can stick with the 4 speed I would think
  8. nbristow01
    I have been told by several folks that the stock one will work but with very long travel. I would just prefer to have it all so I have normakl trvael and good braking. I spent a lot of money to make it go fast and have not spent a penny to make it stop any better...so time for that to be done prior to installing my dual webers
  9. nbristow01
    Thats dual line right? What is the PN..just so I can check which way is least expensive
  10. nbristow01
    So which MC do I order with my 320 rotors and volvo calipers up front. The calipers are dual line like the stock 02, not single line. Tons of info in the forum searches (my computer quite crashing) and I see E12 this 528 that, E24 E28 but never a part number. So here is what I have found 34311120832.... and use with the 22/8 grommets 34311153919...no idea what grommets I would need Which of the above is the correct MC part number? I am certain this may be an aggravating question but I just only want to order once and order right with all parts I may need to complete the swap
  11. nbristow01
    I am running dual lines up front like stock, not converting to single lines
  12. nbristow01
    So which MC do I order with my 320 rotors and volvo calipers up front. Tons of info in the forum searches (my computer quite crashing) and I see E12 this 528 that, E24 E28 but never a part number. So here is what I have found 34311120832 and use with the 22/8 grommets 34311153919...no idea what grommets I would need I am certain this may be an aggravating question but I just only want to order once and order right with all parts I may need to complete the swap
  13. nbristow01
    Thanks would suck to get it and have no grommets
  14. nbristow01
    My better and smarter half (wife) said to get the 528 MC and quite thinking about it
  15. nbristow01
    Yes it is actually the 320 fronts with Volvo calipers. Is there a schematic or old blog around on how to remove this retention valve? I can no longer do searches on FAQ, even site search, which is google, because my computer keeps crashing
  16. nbristow01
    Lets just make the whole car float!! I googled it, way to much data for my ADD brain LOL
  17. nbristow01
    yes you are right..big stupid DUHHHH on my end. I was looking at the floating rotors from the BBK and I forgot the 02 rotors are not floating Everyone feel free to flog me as I deserve it floating rotors? are you sure? what rotors do you have? Marshall I am most likely using the incorrect nomenclature. I have 320 hubs and vented rotors for my brake upgrade. The 320 rotors fit right over the 320 hub and have a small allen headed screw that holds them in place. So they are not really secured to the hub like an 02 rotor is. So I refered to them as floating because that is what I thought a floarting rotor was. What is the correct name for the 320 setup?
  18. nbristow01
    yes you are right..big stupid DUHHHH on my end. I was looking at the floating rotors from the BBK and I forgot the 02 rotors are not floating Everyone feel free to flog me as I deserve it
  19. nbristow01
    Since I have a BBk set for the front I decided to look at a set of "spare" stock front rotors I bought last year. A just in case set. So I open the box and the hole spacing looks pretty small. I measure and it is 4x77-78 range. Any clue what this may go to? Photo of rotor and box with label attached
  20. nbristow01
    Mine is a non Tii. SO this stock one should work fine just a bit more travel to firmness?
  21. nbristow01
    Yes I tried to search. Everytime I do a search I get popups them my conputer freezes...so will ask here. I just got in my front Big Brake kit, also have a rear disc converion coming in from Dave at Aardvark. My stock brake master is less than a year old and I hate to just have to buy another (528 one). Can I use my stock one? I know it has a restrictor type thing that is designed to run rear shoes but can it work as well on the discs? If not can I alter my brake MC to work with the rear discs?
  22. nbristow01
    Help that car!!
  23. nbristow01
    It is a lot cheaper than that to have one rebuilt yourself. Get some local guys to lend you a hand, You will keep money I your wallet and have great friends afterwards. An entire long block rebuild should run about 2000-2500 Should be easy to find a block locally.
  24. nbristow01
    Roger
  25. nbristow01
    I put one in from Oriellys the small kind. Has worked great for about 100k miles but is now beginning to make a whirr noise after I start the car...Listen to CD
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