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nbristow01

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Everything posted by nbristow01

  1. nbristow01
    Things look "topless" there ...maybe the wheels would prefer to be on a Cabrio
  2. nbristow01
    Are you speaking of the progression holes? These are the tiny drilled holes you see when you open the butterflys? If so both carbs look identical. In fact everythign about the both is identical except the covers as far as I have been able to determine. Both are set up exactly the same and ran real well on the car for years..in fact the car was driven by a 17 year old girl as her DD for highschool (she has a very cool dad)
  3. nbristow01
    My diff bushings look like total crap. That thing is wiggling around. I have new rubber ones I may install tomorrow as well
  4. nbristow01
    To be honest I have no idea if a Tii setup will work. It just bypasses the intake manifold so the water line goes from the water neck to the heater direct. I woukld imagine I can just use a dual ended hose barb and some hose. But I know that IE and a few others make a kit for the dual carb setups. I figured maybe someone bought an IE one and does not need it now
  5. nbristow01
    Have a set of dual webers to install in Jan. Looking for the water bypass tube with hoses etc
  6. nbristow01
    Thank you very much!!
  7. nbristow01
    Thanks guys..I really want to have duals if I can since I have always loved the sound and guys with duals are always faster than me. So here are the settings I have now: Both carbs have 3 progression holes main jets:125 Idle jets: 50F8 Etube: F16 air correct: 170 main venturi: 28mm (is this to small? Or good for use under 5500RPM) Pump jet:40 I have ordered rebuild kits since all the rubber o rings are brittle and crumbling. This setup came off of a stock motor. I have 9.5 and 284 cam. So is this a good start baseline? I will be putting a wideband on before the install to help take out guess work
  8. nbristow01
    They came off of a M10...2.0 motor. E12 head etcetc so I should be good on that part. I have looed at this setup a while. I would love a Lynx setup but never can track one down.
  9. nbristow01
    yes in fact yesterday I was in a Toys for Tots drive. Ken was ahead of me in his S14 powered 02. So we were moving at a really good clip. As we were making a curve that back end shifted and gave that jerk that adds oversteer. So it pushed me back towards the center stripe right when a truck was coming. Scared the crapppolahh out of me!!!!
  10. nbristow01
    Ordering a book today. The PO bought a new 45 for the lynx. I sent the carb pics to my friend that wonder the car before this guy. He confirmed that the carbs are the ones he had. He said they tune the same just the top covers are different. My car is a DD so I will hang on to my 38/38 setup in the event these duals become to much for me to deal with. I have a friend that has a wideband and a big bag of weber parts. He spent about ten years as a weber tuner for a race shop. SO he has offered to help me out. Wish me luck fellas...I am going in Marshall you are most likely right. But at least this way after I jack around with these things I will better understand what you are all talking about with these duals. They may come up for sale later LOL
  11. nbristow01
    Ugggg yep gotta do it.
  12. nbristow01
    The history is these weber 40 carbs have.... been on a car that has been in the club for several years. After a few years the car started to run bad so he figured it was carbs and did not know how to set duals or work on then. So he put a lynx 45 setup on the car and lost cylinder 4 a few weeks later. SO he offered these to me for 250 bucks..linkages and all..can't pass that up!! I plan on putting these on my car in late Jan so have time to rebuild them etc. I run a 9.5 1mm over motor with 284 cam..motor has maybe 50k miles on it. Crane fireball ignitiion that is set dead on right now. I never rev over 5500. I usually stay at 45-5000 on shifts. I noticed the carbs have different covers but otherwise look identical..here are the specs on them: 125 Main, F16 air correct, 50FB (F8?) idle , Is this a good baseline for startup? Also I think it was Toby that said for better torque the carbs should run about a 32 choke?...so where is this located on the carb? Also on the intakes...any idea what brand they are? No markings on them just some numbers 121 141 and 125..also brake vacuum is on cylinder 2
  13. nbristow01
    Marshall and you pulling tree stumps with you 02 again?? Holy melted tires batman that should be a blast!
  14. nbristow01
    I have a symptom that has gotten worse and must be addressed. When I go into a right hand or left hand curve doing maybe 60 or so..once the weight of the car transfers over the back end wants to put me into an oversteer as it seems to jerk into position. After that initial oversteering jerk it is fine intil I go into another corner. SO obvious I have movement in the rear. The subframe bushings and control arm bushings are very old. I have new subframe bushings I will install tomorrow. When the car is sitting on the ground I can grab the rear tire at 3 and 9 oclock and pull on one side and push on the other. I can see about a 1/4 inch of flex in the subframe bushing when I do this. Rubber in the bushing is old and seperated. Also control arm bushings are worn. I will be ordering poly ones tomorrow. So my basic question is that rear end movement I am feeling....is that from worn control arm bushings or word subframe bushings?
  15. nbristow01
    I believe Ireland Engineering makwes there own for their race cars. I believe the OEM name for this part is Thrust Rod?...anyway they use rod but have heim joints at the end. Youmay want to give them a shout to see why they did what they did.
  16. nbristow01
    In new cond, never put on a car...take $125.00 for the pair
  17. nbristow01
    Doing it in the car is quite a whoopin!! I did it and the opil pan while in the car. Would have been both quicker and easier to have just pulled the motor out and do it right. Only takes about an hour to ubolt and pull the motor. Even less if you have a buddy help.
  18. nbristow01
    I have that same rotation issue. SO I have to kind of adjust it every now and then. But thena again I put about 2-3k miles a month on my 02. A word of warning about making he back section of the exhaust to tight. As the engine moves around and that back sectin of the exhaust stays firm it will cause stress at the welds on the downtube. And cause stress cracks on the stainless downtube. Things need to be pretty uniform across the board on that exhaust. I love the IE stainless system. I have had to doa few minor mods but overall a great system at an very good price
  19. nbristow01
    One of our Texas guys has one in Houston Texas.
  20. nbristow01
    Yes !! Update is it is still sitting in the box in my garage!! Talk about everytime I plan to do it something has come up. I think the Gods want me to melt in the summer again. I promise as I make progress I will post
  21. nbristow01
    Taking you 02 will make you realize there is no reason not to take it. I have logged over 100k miles in my 02 in the last 3 years. Love and trust you 02
  22. nbristow01
    man they are such sweet cars
  23. nbristow01
    Nick + electronics = disaster and car fire
  24. nbristow01
    Thinking about picking one up for my weekend/fun car. I was reading on bimmerforum about how expensive these cars are to own. But when I look up parts prices on Autohaus, BAV etc prices seem to be the same or cheaper than our 02's Am I missing something?
  25. nbristow01
    Mine still languishes in the box..just have not had time.....did you pull the heater box?
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