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nbristow01

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Everything posted by nbristow01

  1. nbristow01
    Glad you chimed in. After those 8 sets are gone do you expect trouble ordering more? Seems to be the issue with the other suppliers. I swapped to upgraded brakes so won't matter to me but for the guys keeping stiock cars it may get pricey
  2. nbristow01
    That may well be the case as well. I never had this issue when I ran Kumho Ecsta 205/50/15. In fact I always used them. I recently bought the BFG SS because they had better wet traction ratings. Well after the new brakes are installed, new bearings, new rear suspension I will see what happens. Makes sense it could be the tires since that is the only thing that has changed
  3. nbristow01
    Yeah Nick, I'm getting a list together for front and rear brakes. Seems that Blunt does not have Rotors, Shoes or SS lines and BavAuto does not have Shoes. IE does seem to have everything I need though. I might get parts from different vendors. Blunt is cheapest on Rebuilt Calipers and if I get the wheel cylinders from AutoHauz, it will save me some money. yep that is why I decided to swap everything to BBK up front and discs in the rear. That way parts will be cheap and easy to come by. If rotors and shoes are getting hard to find now I can imagine what it may be like in afew more years. Lots of these 02s on the road and more getting restored so a shortage in parts can be expected to increase. Well thats what I convinced myself of to make me feel better about ordering the brake upgrade
  4. nbristow01
    I did check and they seemed fine BUT I have a new BBK to install so with the new bearings in it I will see what happens. I plan on istalling the front BBK and rear discs and the rebuilt rear subframe all at once. So maybe combined it will fix it...never even considered the wheel bearings as being a possble cause. Thanks for the input
  5. nbristow01
    I have been having a bit of an issue with my front end. My car has been increasingly wondering on the road when I am on uneven roads. It pulls to one side then the other, follows grooves etc. To the point I have to figure out what may be causing it because it is getting kind of squirrely to drive I got the car a bit over 3 years ago, put in all new poly bushings in front, new ball joints, tie rods, center link, Bilstien HD, HR springs, IE sway bars. Since the rebuild I have clocked close to 120k miles on the car Tires have only 3000 on them, BFG SS 205/50/15. I have run 205s on the car for years and never had this issue so I have ruled out tire size. Had alignment rechecked yesterday, Steeringbox has a bit of play in it but does not seem excessive. rear suspension is toast and getting a subframe swap next month with all new bushings....but the pulling and following grooves is coming from the front end...or so it seems I have jacked the car up and checked everything. I can not find any play in the tie rods, Center link or ball joints, but maybe under load they move? IS 120k miles on the "new" rebuilt front end now needing a new rebuild? The parts are cheap but hate to just start swapping parts without understanding what the cause is in the first place Thanks for any input
  6. nbristow01
    Sold locally...thanks for the email interests
  7. nbristow01
    I looked at Autohausaz but shoes are backordered for my 72 Tii but wheel Cylinders for $9 bucks apiece! $28 - $41 bucks each at other places. Larry that is the keyword...backorder. They are on backorder with Autozone as well...then they said they will not be able to get them in. I tried several places and got the same story...back order. I tried BMW direct and they are showing one of the 4 shoes as NLA now. I also tried sources from here on FAQ with the same results. Ireland is still advertising them but since I have ordered the rear disc conversion there is no point fo rme to. May want to check with them for your Tii shoes
  8. nbristow01
    The 3.91 was gone through by a mechanic and said it is in good shape. Has fresh MTL in it. The half shaft were rebuilt professionally as well. I will sell the complete set, diff and both half shafts for $500.00 If parted I will sell the diff for $350.00 The half shafts for $200.00 for the pair. They are drilled for the LSD rear end I will be going to Mid America and can bring it there for pickup if needed to save on some shipping. I prefer not to ship it but if I have to then I will. I can get shipping prices as needed
  9. nbristow01
    Welcome!!! Look forward to the pictures
  10. nbristow01
    shoes are not NLA and they are cheap.... there are other reasons to spend $$$ to convert to disk brakes, but lack of shoe availability or high prices aren't two of them. I had intended to swapping to a rear disc setup this spring. I already have the front BBK kit. So instead of spending for the shoes or upgrade to 320 drums I will just use that money for the rear discs. I need a set for my sons car though. A fellow FAQer has gotten me a set for his. Thanks all for the offers and thanks for the advice.
  11. nbristow01
    Wow let me see if they still have them. I have tried all sources so far and have come up empty handed
  12. nbristow01
    Not only are they close to 150 a set...one of the parts is NLA....I am selling my 391 LSD and using that money for a disc swap.
  13. nbristow01
    What we should all be doing is thanking Marc for getting us invloved in the LSC drives. As a TX2002 we almost NEVER did anything...it was never a club, like Andrew said it was a ersource group we were all part of. Over the years I gave away dozens of parts for FREE. As has Ken, Chris, Paul and others. Chris blew his cool when I was asked by Marc to help get more vintage cars involved in the drives. I am assuming there was some invisible line that was crossed. It was never a technical job nor trying to overthrow TX2002. Just all that drama that went down sounds more like Real Housewives than guys with cars. Paul Andrew and Les have always been the same whether online or in person as have I. Chris was always a good guy and I always thought highly of him, he helped me out with a down tube for my sons car when I was in a time bind. To bad things went down the way they did. Can't turn back time so best to move forward. TX2002 group is still alive and well. Same people that participated still do
  14. nbristow01
    SSHHHHHH don't tell anyone Bill but I did it. A few days after I got the car, just took out the old shocks and installed the new shocks. I did notice the larger hole but I had a rubber shock grommet that when on each side. I figured that just must be how BMW did it. Lets keep this between us LOL. Yes it was hair brained..speaking of hair...BLUNT what do these run for 2 with the metal sleeves just in case these are not long enough
  15. nbristow01
    Hardy har harrrrr. You must be snowed in.
  16. nbristow01
    Last night I was thinking about my rear subframe swap I will be doing. I instelled the Bilstien HDs about 3 years ago. I rememebr a few months back a post talking about the plastic or rubber insert piece that goes inside the shock tower and sticks out through the top into the truck. Mine does not have this....I looked on REALOAM but can not locate it. I have a 74 model. Are these pieces required? Reason I ask is I am getting a thump noise from my right shock when I back out into the alley then again when I take off. Sounds like a loose shock....thanks in advance and if you can find a post with this part please post me the link
  17. nbristow01
    Very painful to watch..looked like a rust free car too. This may have been posted before. SO sorry if a repeat post
  18. nbristow01
    NEVER use WD40 to lubricate. It is a drier and actually can be used as a cutting fluid. So it will cause increased parst wear. I used to restore antique clocks and I would get soem in with very worn bushings. Every time the owner would tell me they lubed it with WD40. My gas pedal gets harsh on that roller sometimes. I felt the back of my pedal and it is pretty rough. I have the Delrin bushing but I have to add a small amount of moly grease once in a while and it works very smooth after that
  19. nbristow01
    So are you runnign paper gaskets and no insulators? How does it run? I am torn about using the insulators or just mounting direct. If I use the insulators I could just use a standard gasket on each side.
  20. nbristow01
    Thanks guys...so are these plastic spacers necessary?
  21. nbristow01
    gathering the bits to install my duals. The set I bought came with the bakelite insulators. Each insulator (there are 4)has 2 o-rings. I need to replace these o-rings. Attached is a link to weber direct. Is this "soft mount kit" what I am needing? I would need one per carb obviously..thanks http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/kc-045.htm
  22. nbristow01
    The piston diameter is a fair bit bigger than the stock 2002 one, which, if i could get the system bled, would lead to a stiffer pedal and higher line pressure, desirable for the pending volvo/320 brake upgrade. Thanks for the advice, folks. I will dig up a pressure bleeder and have another go at it. Another post in another thread mentioned reverse bleeding the master by hooking the clutch line up to the FR caliper. Thoughts about this method? Not sure if it will work right for dual-circuit brakes.... I was saving my stainless lines for when the bbk stuff got here, but i guess i will put them on to factor out possible problems there. Several guys locally have put the 5 series MCs on their cars and say it is a nice upgrade. What size tires are you running? The added mass of larger tires and wheels can cause the same issue from what I have read. Can overpower the shoes and pads of the stock setup? Like I said I read that on FAQ but have no working knowledge of it
  23. nbristow01
    Peaking inside the Booster should be easy. Just undo the 2 bolts that holt it on, slide it forward a bit and peak with a flashlight. When you fill the reservoir up how long does it take to leak down?
  24. nbristow01
    I just replaced the rubber grommets and elbows on m y son's 76 also replaced the 2 fabric covered hoses from the reservoir to the brake MC. No more leaks. Have you discovered whenr he leak is coming from? Or where the hydro fluid is going?
  25. nbristow01
    I used yamabond on that oil pan. A crappy job to do with the motor in the car. I believe Autozone sells RTV Gray which is the same as yamabond.
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