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wagnerf15

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Everything posted by wagnerf15

  1. wagnerf15
    Sounds like something along the lines of 12v line to coil coming disconnected. The spark check will reveal if that is, indeed, the case. Gotta be something electrical, no?
  2. wagnerf15
    Uh.....his from line might yield a clue okay, oops, you're talking about the original poster. I'm a dumbass....
  3. wagnerf15
    But it'd sure be fun to do......
  4. wagnerf15
    Good luck! coolant problems are the ones I like the least
  5. wagnerf15
    No special tricks. Just make sure the surfaces are CLEAN and free of all old gasket material. I use the Permatex Indian Head gasket sealant (brown goop) and have had no oil leaks.
  6. wagnerf15
    Left and right are decidedly different.
  7. wagnerf15
    The wire from the starter to the coil is the one that steps up voltage during start (bypasses the resistor) and not the primary 12v feed for the coil. Again assuming you have the stock set-up, you'll have to find the other 12v wire that hooks to the coil. It makes sense in that while you have the starter engaged, the coil sees 12v and it dies when you release the starter. Any spare wires hanging around the coil?
  8. wagnerf15
    How old is your water pump? I'd say temp increasing when you coast (water pump not turning so fast) is fairly normal and it'd probably heat up a bit under heavy load, but maybe your water pump is a little tired. Seems like the engine would overtemp like hell at all times if the thermostat wasn't opening because of the lack of circulation. Or the engine wouldn't ever get warm at all if it was stuck open. But it sounds like your 3 row rad is working like a champ!
  9. wagnerf15
    Are you asking how to work the timing light, or how to time the car? The timing light is easy....pos/neg leads then hook transducer to #1 spark plug wire. Viola! Strobe each time #1 fires. Now disconnect your dizzy from any vacuum, loosen the bolt, rev engine to 1400rpm (non-tii) or 2400rpm(tii) and enjoy searching for the ball in the hole (CD's post in the above link has a picture). It actually takes some acrobatics to get up high enough to get the timing light flashing down the hole, reach across to adjust the dizzy, and keep the engine at 1400/2400 rpm. Sure is worth the effort though... Oh yeah, I have pertronix. If you still have points/condenser, don't forget to set gap and dwell prior.
  10. wagnerf15
    Point well taken. But, MAYBE, the noob who finds the board and asks the same question we've heard a billion times ought to put in 02 minutes of his time to see if there is already a good answer out there. I've never seen a question, thoughtfully researched and asked, not offered some opinion. As to the rehash, what's wrong with rehashing it yourself through the archives? If you're not finding what you want regarding the dash, or wish to gin up some new conversation, re-phrase the question asking for what you want. I'll bet there are a lot of people willing/chomping-at-the-bit to give you their opinion.... And I've only been on the forum for a year and a half or so....I can't imagine what the REAL old-heads think about it...
  11. wagnerf15
    U, I, O.....correct.
  12. wagnerf15
    Now THAT's good instruction!
  13. wagnerf15
    I know you're looking for a Weber tuner, but I remember from your previous posts that you have a problem similar to my first 38 problem. TobyB set me straight eventually with the throttle butterfly hint. I couldn't get the idle to settle down even with the choke screw TOTALLY off the cam. As I looked down in the throttle body, i could see the butterflies (down in the body) slightly open with the engine idling at over 1500rpm. As I manually rotated them closed, the engine calmed down. Found out the linkage was too tight and didn't allow full closing. Fixed that, now it's a past problem. Those butterflies are subject to the linkage (obviously), scraping the intake manifold if it isn't clear, and sticking. Hopefully you checked the clearance between manifold and butterfly before you mounted the carb. Get the choke butterflies open and gaze down in the carb. If the throttle butterflies aren't fully closed, you're off the idle circuit of the carb and won't ever get the idle to settle down. See if you can't manually close those doofers and calm down the idle before you wave the white flag. Then use the baseline tuning on the redlineweber website to see if you can't get it fixed up. ....or take it to a mechanic! Shoot me an email at wagnerf15@sbcglobal.net if you want a longer, more boring explanation.
  14. wagnerf15
    Jeff Ireland also has some very nice parts for this conversion. And if you choose to skip the kit route, Lee of this board has real nice brackets to relocate the transmission support.
  15. wagnerf15
    Have you sniffed around www.redlineweber.com for their tech articles? Lots of good stuff there, you might find what you're looking for.
  16. wagnerf15
    It's ambulatory! Almost exactly 1 year from the day i pulled it into the garage and began surgery. The historic drive went all the way around the block (.8miles) and was uneventful....if a bit loud. Need to put the exhaust on aft of the headers. My 18 year old accompanied me and proclaimed, "I didn't think it would ever move again!". I promptly beat him down. Couldn't have happened without the advice and information available on this board. The first drive went with no seats, just a stool in the driver's side . But the seats are now in, seat belts installed, today the bumpers and it's off to the exhaust store/safety inspection. It's quite amazing because all I have left are 1. Break in engine and fix inevitable burps 2. Get wheels/tires 3. Fix entire inside 4. Fix entire outside YGBSM, I've barely begun...but it'll be my driver while I finish; with a HUGE smile on my face! Jim
  17. wagnerf15
    If I remember correctly, the flanges are 10mm threaded holes. The 2002 inner CV is for an 8mm bolt, as you know. The 320i inner CV has the larger holes, but a spacer is still required (flange to flange on the 320 diff is less than 2002). I did this exact mod (320i CV and 3.91 LSD) and had to get the spacers from IE to fit it all up tight. I thought, incorrectly, that changing this inner CV would solve all the world's problems. No, only in my own little world. The bolts need to be the correct length, as well, to get through the axle and spacer to the diff flange. I can't see any reason you can't bore out the holes on the 2002 CVs, carefully. I'm fairly sure you don't want those bolts moving around after installation.
  18. wagnerf15
    Sucks if you don't have an impact wrench, but that is THE best way, as Bill noted.
  19. wagnerf15
    that sucks. I know sympathy is useless, but you have mine. Parts are expensive enough already, without this shit.
  20. wagnerf15
    Is there some forum like angie's list or similar where you can lay waste to their reputation? I'd expose them for the con artists they are as loudly as possible....of course I'm assuming you've exhausted all possibilities at the company.
  21. wagnerf15
    I think you'll be okay with a package of paper assholes from Office Max and super glue. There's really nothing in the front suspension that's critical anyway.....
  22. wagnerf15
    knocking the rocker shafts out with a suitable drift is the only way to get them out (maybe somebody has a kickass press that'll do it), the whole point to the valve spring compressor is you take ALL pressure off the rockers so you don't have to hammer as hard. Clearly, you've figured out that it is not required, just easier with less chance of goobering up any of the mounts
  23. wagnerf15
    First of all, make sure the cap is on correctly. There shouldn't be much, if any, play when it is installed in the slot correctly. Warm up engine. Is this a vacuum advance dizzy? If so, plug vacuum advance line, hook up your timing light and time the ball through inspection hole at 1400rpm (non-tii) or 2400rpm (tii). Clockwise=retard and CCW= advance. Just move it back and forth until ball is visible above the lower edge of sight hole. Lots of posts regarding timing in the archives....check it out.
  24. wagnerf15
    As John mentioned, it is certainly possible to NOT use the cam removal tool. You had better be very careful not to nick and scratch each rocker shaft mount through the head though. That aluminum is very soft and I found the job to be difficult and, as mentioned in your previous post, likely to spew springs all over the garage. I DID buy the tool and it's a great way for a single man to get the cam swapped without much of a chance of damage. I'd feel better if I was gonna use it more than once, but the money was worth it to me. In fact, I may just swap cams every 6 months or so to justify the expense of the tool. JK
  25. wagnerf15
    This thing is the HEAT!!!!
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