wagnerf15

Sounds like the ground isn't right (either sender or gauge), not a real overheat.

Sounds like the ground isn't good.

Always seems to work that way, huh?

Well, assuming the wiring is ok, maybe the oil pressure is below the light's tolerance. I'm just saying....

Don't know. Can you easily figure out shipping to 63304? If not, no biggie

Uh, I don't have the invoice handy, but it seems like it was around $450 and then a core charge that gets refunded when you kick your old one back. Not a great price, but the work looks nice, and if it fits and is nicely balanced, it'll be worth it. No one around STL can even cut because there are no jigs IN THIS CITY!!!! YGBSM.

anyone?

Thanks to Toby for the Weber 38 tips, got the linkage perfect now with throttle butterflies fully closed with throttle off and I think I even have the choke right. I can idle down to about 1 rpm now, of course it doesn't run worth a shit. I also discovered that a couple of my vacuum plugs weren't, and it idles a LOT better with those leaks plugged (Why do I keep learning the same old shit?). Additionally, I could never figure out why everybody timed the ball at 2500 rpm instead of the pulley mark at 1400rpm....now I know. Who in the f*** made this thing? I don't see any way to get a good look at the pointer and pulley marks. But I can find the ball just fine. Hard to reach the distributor and I think I've permanently scarred the 18 year old after he touched the old wire to the points while helping....guess I should secure that. Let's see, radiator leak, think I need a new one. Bottom studs on header leaking oil, guess I'll pull that bitch and re-do the studs while I can get at it easily. Not sure if alternator is charging, that's no big deal. But it sounds great with it's open header and revs like a beotch. Man am I looking forward to drive #1. Oh yeah, waiting on driveshaft #2 from Driveshaft Specialists. Previous post described the process of trying to find driveshaft here in STL and how I came to settle on these guys. Anyway, I finally said "send me 59 11/16" driveshaft and I'll be responsible if it doesn't fit". 1 week later, my 60 1/16" driveshaft arrives and it fits.......if I stuff the shit out of it and push the engine against the mounts. Not happy. To their credit, they said "new one coming and it'll be 59 11/16"". More to follow. Meanwhile, 60 deg here today and I'm gonna take a break...go ride Harleys with the wife.

Whoops, forgot to add no vacuum use from this carb

Got a question for ya. I got the new engine running after getting fuel delivery straightened out (I had an air leak back at the tank). Runs like a top, good oil pressure, no apparent leaks....pretty good, huh? My issue is I can't get the bitch to idle down. Details are 1) there is no mechanical reason, external to the carb, that is causing this. Idle screw off the stop, choke screw off the stop, car fully warmed up and choke butterflies fully open 2) got the 38 setup with the initial weber specs, each side screw in fully then out one turn...subsequent dicking with these screws has NO effect 3) I've run the distributor back and forth A LOT, and no effect. currently have the ball centered in the hole at 2500rpm. Is there a retard button that I'm missing (I mean some button a retard like me would miss)? I can't figure out a reason I can't get it to slow down...usually I can't get it to run, so this is awfully strange to me. Any takers?

5 speed slave cylinder, throwout bearing and actuator arm are all different than 4 speed. The transmission is about 3.5625 inches longer than 4 speed and guibo is differently sized as well. As each car is different, it makes sense to mount everything, adjust differential to center of slots, and measure the exact distance between flanges to determine length of your driveshaft. From all my searching, 59 11/16" was about the answer, and almost exactly what I came up with on my car. Sounds like you have about the right idea, though.

The Ireland pistons are cut for the specific head you're using. I have the 292 cam with Ireland 9.5 pistons and the e12 head and they fit fine. Of course, timing should be correct, or no piston is gonna fit.

I actually have a clear fuel filter just prior to the pump, and I can see that no appreciable amount of fuel is flowing through that.

Couldn't get gas from the tank to carb, so, after a bunch of searches and research, I decided to fill the carb bowl full of gas and let 'er rip! Fired right away and ran until the bowl was empty. Still no gas going through the transparent filter. Nice! I have a coolant leak (think radiator has hole), the requisite smoking from assembly, and a couple of questions. My gas tank sender/pickup isn't connected to the tank (no o-ring yet) but is submerged in the gas. Could this an issue with regards to fuel delivery, or is my fuel pump not primed/toast? I can draw gas through the line with the trusty shop vac, so I know I have no blockage. Additionally, I expected to open the valve cover cap and find a happy, oily mess but it is still relatively dry in there. Does it take a while for the oil to fully circulate the first time you run? I've probably only had it running for something like 30 total seconds.

Using the Bill Williams method of clutch bleeding (bleeding backwards from the slave) may have been the easiest task I've accomplished in rebuilding this beast. Thanks for the tip, I'll never bleed that bastard from the top down again. Now, I just need to get it to run. See next thread....[/url]

In the photo attached, the only bolt that has anything funky going on is the left-most bolt (the one that attaches by the oil pressure sender) and it needs a special washer with o-ring in it. The rest are conventional washers and of course you need a good gasket for the housing. You either have a gasket bad, o-ring blown out, or *gasp* a cracked head behind the housing. Let's try 1 or 2 first. Oh yeah, the valve cover gasket is also right beside this housing, maybe that thing is bad.

After lying beneath my car and pondering the beauty of an installed engine and transmission (actually in disbelief that it all fit okay), I noticed that my transmission seems dangerously close to the brake line running to the back brakes. I haven't seen it in action, but assume the transmission moves a bit under load and don't want the inevitable chafing to begin. As you look from the rear forward, is the transmission normally so tight on the left side? Have I missed something? Anyone else have/had a similar problem? I find nothing during searches, but can't believe I'm the first/only one.

Here's my favorite....although I'm not sure it's special, just useful

Okay, i thought I had the driveshaft situation sorted out, and then I got the phone call. "Are you sure about the overall length, because we normally make these 58 1/4", not 59 11/16"". Great, just what I needed, a little self-doubt before I spend $470. My measurement says 59 11/16, previous posts say around the same, and i'm PRETTY sure. Anyone every heard of one cut that short? This guy seemed to indicate that was standard with the 5 speed.

Can't get a BMW driveshaft cut and welded and balanced in STL, I found out today. No jig because no business...they told me to look at cali. I did find out, however, that the reason they can't even do the work is because of the center u-joint. Apparently, they can't even get this off without destroying it and it is required to center the 3 bolt flange properly and then balance. I'm fairly certain I want this job done properly, so onward ho. Many internet searches and phone calls later, I settled on Driveshaft Specialist, Inc in San Antonio. They seemed to know what I was talking about and asked germane questions, which I found oddly comforting. It was almost like being on this forum. Anyway, I centered the diff in the slotted holes and measured flange to flange (minus 1 1/16" for the guibo) and came up with 59 11/16", which was largely in-line with previous posts. They asked me 2 questions which I didn't expect.... 1. Which size 3 bolt flange did I have on my transmission? Didn't know there was more than one. Figured that out. 2. Distance from back of guibo to center of bolt holes for center bearing. Huh? Oh, I can measure it, but WTF does that have to do with anything? I decided to ax a few questions myself. You guys aren't gonna cut the shaft aft of the center ujoint are you? No. Well, if that stays the same, and I give you a flange to flange length of the final driveshaft, why do you give a shit about this measurement? The slots are like 1 1/2 - 2" long, how accurate is that measurement? Anyhoo, armed with a LOT of previous postings and the PDF of the BMW manual, I felt like I held my own in the driveshaft wars. $470 for a *new* driveshaft (including shipping to my home and shipping the core back) was more than I planned to spend, and I now have a center bearing and 3 bolt flange for sale, but I'm hoping I have this bitch whacked. I'll let you know

Got the diff loose, my plan is to center that thing in the slots and measure as close as i can, then subtract the guibo thickness. So far, i'm getting around 59 3/4 or so, which checks with previous posts. Just want to make sure i'm not screwing up the guibo thing.

Doing the math for my driveshaft length. Horrified I'm gonna screw it up. I'm getting the numbers for driveshaft length that are in line with previous posts, but want to confirm....without a precision caliper, i measure the 6 bolt guibo thickness at just over 1" (actually, I'm using 1 1/16" for my calcs). Does this pass the common sense test? Anyone know what the actual thickness is?

Steve McQueen was the essence of hip....coolest dude around for years and years. But he shoulda been in an '02...

Before you dick with a radiator cap on a hot/pressurized system, I recommend you put a heavy towel over it, because hot antifreeze WILL shoot outta there. Guess how I know this tidbit? And I reckon you can tell if the thermostat has opened by feeling the lower radiator hose...when it's warm/hot, the thermostat has prolly opened and pulled the hot water through the radiator. I've always bled by filling the radiator, starting engine (with cap off radiator) and allowing it to idle until warm while topping off the radiator. When it's pretty warm and won't take any more, put on the cap, go for a short drive (with your bottle of antifreeze) and assuming you haven't had to stop to add fluid, top it off when you get home. Then check it cold next time and top off. That usually gets all but the most stubborn air bubbles out. HTH

54 degrees, all 3 boys home, and little enough rain to stick the shiite in the garage out in the driveway was all I needed to get the engine stuffed!!! 3 boys helped push the beast into the garage, son #1 and I manhandled the engine into the hole, and all the mounts fit perfectly (thanks again Lee). Now, I just have to re-mount the dizzy, hook up all the hoses, the electrics, the gas, measure and cut the driveshaft, put in the shifter, the radiator, hook up the carb, the brake booster............1 hour max.