jrhone

Not to debate your oil choice...I found 15w-40 a little thin. I like the VR1 20w-50 synthetic...a lot.

Whats the condition of your Center resonator? If its original or very old you may have nothing more than a straight pipe right now. Take it to a muffler shop and you can get a center muffler that will tone it down a bit.

Can u show the pics u chose?

+1 on Ken Blasko. Im running aild hot rod motor he put together with 9.5:1 pistons and a 292 cam with a weber 38 carb. Runs great. He has some special pistons amd a 284 tall cam that he was developing as well. It sounds as though you know kind of what u want to build since your old motor did you well. Call Jeff at Ireland Engineering as well since they sell nearly all of the parts and may give you some feedback in what works great together in their experience.

Thx guys...I found one local!

Update! Im back on the road. Thanks to all for the advice and support. Andrew git me a subframe with the reinforcements and Ken at Vintage BMW Racing did tye install for me. Im better than before! Here are a fre pics of my cracked subframe.

For me the look of tires in the wheel well is critical. I like 15x6.5 et 30 or 15x6 et25. This gives a little room for variances in tires from different brands and for stock fenders means no rubbing or rolling. My car is very low and i love the look.

Andrew got me squared away with the reinforcements welded in! I love this place!

Yes. Similar location. Mine cracked here. Straight across. Pretty clean. This isnt My subframe. Its from this thread and has been reinforced. Just showing where mine craxked. About an inch or so below the mount.

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/02leftmmreinf.html ireland sells this one as well as whole subframes already reinforced and powder coated...imagine that lol.

I think we are all wondering the ballpark YOU paid for it....Cool find!

Nope...I had replaced all the bushings with Poly bushings so should be in good shape. Just wanna get back on the road....lol.

Looking at my options.

thats the backup plan if I can't find one to refresh.

Yeah...thats what everyone says...lol...probably doesn't help its low, stiff, and I drive it like I stole it...lol

Pulling away from the house, I heard a strange thud, the steering wheel shimmied and the throttle blipped and then it all went back to normal. Odd...then it did it again. Pulled back into the garage, looked around the car and all seemed ok...then I popped the hood and pulled the motor and bam...The engine was flopping around. Looking at the drivers side, I can see the separation just below the drivers side motor mount. Now the plan is to find a good used subframe, weld in the reinforcement then swap it with my subframe. Soooo...anyone have a spare subframe? Preferably in SoCal... IMG_0485.TRIM.m4v

Looking for a solid front subframe. Mine has the dreaded motor mount crack and I'm looking for a good one to swap in. SoCal preferable but will ship if needed. Thanks! John john@project2002.com

I went with Ken Blasko lightening my stock flywheel. This to me was the best option for my expectations. My flywheel is 11 pounds (stock is 16 I think?) and I get zero noise or chatter. I get more a more responsive car and don't lose any civility...lol...

I have that combo and i love it. Motor isnt stock and has good power. Dont need the shorter gears and i love cruising the highways comfortably at 85+. Comfortably.

Yes you buy Mexican insurance. Also Chito has 6 figure Air cooled Porsches in his shop regulary and has 24 hour security. Not saying things couldnt happen but they have not in say 40 years of them being in business.

My story is pretty well documented on my blog and in those pages linked... I did not tow my car there. I drove it down, left it there for 6 weeks, and then drove it back. Towing a car in and out of Mexico is more difficult for obvious reasons. You can't rent a trailer, documentation, etc...So unless you do your research on how to tow, plan on driving it there. http://project2002.com/south-of-the-border/ http://project2002.com/tijuana-paint-job-prep-and-dropoff/ http://project2002.com/21-days-in-paint-update/ http://project2002.com/more-pics-of-the-car-day-22/ http://project2002.com/day-34-tijuana-visit/ http://project2002.com/42-days-in-getting-closer/ http://project2002.com/49-days-in-painted/ http://project2002.com/day-54the-pickup/ http://project2002.com/putting-it-all-back-together/ Those are all the links pertaining to the TJ Paint Job...as well as a rather long writeup here... My 1 year update on the car.... http://project2002.com/my-tijuana-paintjob-1-year-paint-update/ 2 years after paint job... http://project2002.com/in-tj-for-a-little-upkeep/ Hope that helps! Like I have said all along...The TJ Paint job is NOT one where you can drop it off and write a check and it will be perfect...expect to spend time and make sure you are VERY clear on your expectations. I used the word PERFECT over and over when describing my level of expectation on the job. The price kept going up as they started to understand what my expectation was. Its not perfect, but for what I paid its beyond my expectation. The work is very well done and the results are amazing.

Sorry for the loss of the car and your hone but happy you amd yoir family made it out safely. Cars are replaceable. People are not.

Looks like a very cool setup. Id love to know power numbers.

OEM means original equipment manufacturer. That means BMW brand seals. URO is a brand. They make seals that are about half the cost. There is a reason. Lol. Steer clear especially for major stuff. Like windshields.

Thats everything. Lol. i reused most of the nonvisible seals. Just use OEM seals for the mainstuff. The URO seals suck and leak.