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dapbmw

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  1. dapbmw
    bruce got the part it is a progression hole cover screw. email sent. cheers, dave
  2. dapbmw
    a regrind is ok as long as your head is newer or rebuilt if puttin on an older running head you may have to get large eccentric adjusters. i have heard of the welds crumbling after a few years so always check your regrinds for stress or cracks on the welded parts. a new one is definitely better than a regrind. btw i sell dbilas camshafts too, cheaper than schrick.
  3. dapbmw
    It's good to hear from you John! Happy to hear that eveybody is doing fine. Cheers, Dave
  4. dapbmw
    i think i have one of them email me cheers, dave
  5. dapbmw
    that's what i meant the tipo will tell you all the specs for each particular dcoe and yeas that includes progression holes. all the jets and valves even size of the ball.
  6. dapbmw
    new weber dcoe are cast 40 dcoe 151, and 45 dcoe 152. now the early ones had different tipo #'s because these are what weber used as number codes for the dcoe's they supplied different automobile manufacturers. their generic numbers for weber conversions are 40 dcoe, 18 and 19 (was also used by alpina) mostly, for the weber 45's it was 13. example the 45 dcoe 15 and 16 were specific for bmw tisa and alpina. the 40 dcoe 2, 32 was specifically made for alfa romeos , the 45 dcoe 9's were specific for aston martins. the numbers below the tipo is the serial production number. let's say they made 200,000 pieces of the tipo#32 to it reads on the top cover in the bottom right corner TIPO 40DCOE32 then right below it is the No 129662 meaning this was # 129662 of the 200,000 they made. the tipo tells you the specs for the each dcoe like what jets were used, accelerator pump stroke and rod length, etc... if you have a weber book or manual handy. so if you are buying a pair make sure they have matching tipo #'s. see pic for reference
  7. dapbmw
    copper lines work good too and they do not rust! if they brake it is easy to weld just solder it and it's ok again. easy to bend too.
  8. dapbmw
    323i's are rare now even in europe they command good prices now, how bad is the rust?
  9. dapbmw
    what is rent like for a 1 bedroom apt? or house? in the vicinity of sunnyvale. sf is ok but it is about 28 miles away something around 15 miles of sunnyvale is fine with me. steve, thanks for the offer i might just take you up on a few pints and maybe a ride on your race car. anyways i am still not decided as i'd rather be close to my family here in toronto. if i do move at least you will have me the side draft carb guru and fiberglass guy close by. i am getting sick and tired of the harsh winters here in toronto, just like today we got clobbered by a snow storm with at least a foot of snow in my driveway now!
  10. dapbmw
    Got a job offer in Sunnyvale, need advices on good places to stay in the area around it. Possibly buy another '02 to use as a daily driver. Cheers, Dave
  11. dapbmw
    if you are tuning side drafts john passini's book is the best and only book i will recommend
  12. dapbmw
    get a buyers package in any ontario ministry of transportation office. show them the title and pay $20.00 all the previous owners will show up and their adresses too.
  13. dapbmw
    mikuni's are prone to leakage at the front of the throats, so make sure your floats and needle valves are in good shape. try adjusting the float levels as per my previous post, as these two parts are important otherwise the carbs will not respond to any jet size changes unless you correct the float level and make sure the needle valves are not stuck. if the floats are not set right it will just dump fuel thru the aux venturies that is why you see fuel spilling from the front. mikuni recommends rubber isolators for street use but for racing solid ones are ideal. double check your linkages, have a friend floor the gas pedal while you look at the throttle bores to see if the plates are at wot meaning you should see it as flat with the throttle shafts. if you have air filters on take it off so you can see it. i like your offer of brew and steaks, do you want to drive your '02 2500 miles to toronto? i'll provide the tim horton's coffee! cheers, dave
  14. dapbmw
    might be an easy one or not. the easy is that your throttle/s does not fully open up check your linkages, it might just be opening half or 3/4's the plates must fully open when you pedal to the metal. move the linkages by hand see if the throttle plates go all the way, unhook the rod from the pedal box to do this now it if fully opens then it is your floats that need adjusting. but from the way it sounds is the throttle plates don't open fully. also check your distributor see if you got it timed right. your timing might be retarded. turn the distributor to the point where you get the highest idle then back of a bit. how do the plugs look like? do you have black smoke at idle or when you floor it while moving?
  15. dapbmw
    mikuni phh diagram parts list: http://www.toysport.com/catalog/Mikuni%20Carburater.htm
  16. dapbmw
    you did not elaborate as to what operation of the carbs run crappy. idle? progression, mid-range or wot? does it stumble before 3000 or surges at cruising speed 3500-4000? are they in sync as in idle is steady and solid? what are the jet sizes? main, pilot, air jet, emulsion tubes, venturi/choke , pump jet. 40 44 or 50 phh?
  17. dapbmw
    -I know for a fact they recommend a fuel pressure of 3.6 - 4.5 psi based on the manual -The PHH floats can be adjusted by slightly bending the float arms, but they are also externally adjustable with a screw that raises and rises the fulcrum pin area. -On the float page there is a diagram near the bottom showing a pipette gauge being used. The measurement of 21mm there might be important for me I am guessing in terms of how high the fuel should come up on the emulsion tubes. The fuel level is only relevant to the lower brim of the passageway leading from the emulsion tube well to the auxiliary venturi. See the picture on how that area of emulsion tube is positioned to the passageway.The level should be about 2mm below that lip. Look into the well and measure how far down it is with a dial caliper. Add another 2mm and that's the fuel level to shoot for. It's that simple. The pipette idea I tried but had difficulties making an airtight seal everytime. The optical level tool is fool-proof. See if you can make a similiar one to fit your application. The fuel pressure is only a problem if the floats can't stop the fuel flow or the wells run dry at WOT. Probably the needle float valve is too small if the AFR goes lean at high rpms and it will not respond to any jetting changes.
  18. dapbmw
    floats need to be set properly. a lot of people don't realize that correct float settings matter a lot on side draft carburetors. too bad you are not close to toronto, i have a wide assortment of mikuni jets.
  19. dapbmw
    any weber dcoe with same tipo series would be ideal but you can also mix and match as long as they are same size i.e. 40, 45, 48 etc... if you have the weber book it shows which tipo series would have the same acelerator pump stroke and that is all you need really. you cannot mix and match dcoe and dcom's as the they have different pump metering devices so the fuel output may not be the same but in theory they will both work together too as they use the same jets, i have not tried this yet. of course same tipo would be nice as all the jets are the same/identical. in my case i have tons of weber parts so i could buy two different tipo #'s and i can make them matched pairs just buy changing some internal parts.
  20. dapbmw
    check your carb float level and fuel supply see if you are getting enough fuel at high rpm
  21. dapbmw
    large o-rings for are for the pump jet cover (cap), small o-rings are for the idle mixture screw, the leather gasket is a seal for your throttle spindle bearing/s and the copper washer is for the needle valve
  22. dapbmw
    large o-rings for are for the pump jet cover (cap), small o-rings are for the idle mixture screw, the leather gasket is a seal for your throttle spindle bearing/s and the copper washer is for the needle valve
  23. dapbmw
    try dbilas a well designed one piece casting which is not prone to cracking like the two manifolds out there carbs stay in sync better/longer due to it being a one piece manifold, no need to change your brake booster as it is shorter in length you can use long air horns with it too. btw it's german made and the FAQ store sells it too ask Steve K
  24. dapbmw
    try dbilas a well designed one piece casting which is not prone to cracking like the two manifolds out there carbs stay in sync better/longer due to it being a one piece manifold, no need to change your brake booster as it is shorter in length you can use long air horns with it too. btw it's german made and the FAQ store sells it too ask Steve K
  25. dapbmw
    sport cam 292 or 300, headers, free flow exhaust, electronic ignition, mechanical advance distributor, hotter coil and thicker plug wires. other nice mods would be a balanced lightened and blue printed engine, ported and flowed head, bigger valves, etc.... list goes on and on till you have a hand grenade motor! you need more braking power with all the added power too cheers, dave
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