Mike_R

Oh yeah??!!! check this out.

OK I was not going to harp on this much but here goes. I had my suspension upgraded a few years back. New B&G springs, Billy's (Sport) IE sway bars. So the negative camber was bad (-5) but you know I lived with it. Last year I did the front sub frame, urethane bushings, steering coupler, repaint & other good stuff. Then it came time to do the back as well. All bushings, diff seals/hanger mounts, subframe mounts, AND IE camber and toe in adjustments. Well since an alignment needed to be done after the install I went to my full service shop to get the final set up -1 degree of negative camber. Well that’s when the fun began. My shop discovered one, that not only are the adjustment bolts well blocked but the eccentric bolts and washers are not "slotted" on the end that is placed over the side that in bolted on. The other end is welded so the loose eccentric washer is essentially on its own! Neither my BMW guy or the large full service shop I go to knew any real reason to do it that way. So far they are holding and I marked the locations of the set up under the frame to check for movement. I have to say the guy who installed the set up is very knowledgeable and did recommend there over say eccentric bushings, and my other shop is large and fairly reliable. They shop stated that they could not guarantee that the alignment would "hold" due to the way it was designed. The set up is WAY better, but for sure the tech of the kit could be a tad better. It is a MAJOR job no doubt. like 6 hours of shop time. .... remove sub frame, weld, grind, paint, re assemble, etc. So you better need the sub frame out for a good reason. Oh just as a note I DID call IE after the fact to ask about the reasons for not slotting the bolt and washer.... I can't remember being satisfied with the answer. However, most of my dealings with IE (and I have a lot of their stuff on my car), have been good.

75 and cloudy here, we are suffering. Might rain tomorrow.

Graduated university of Florida BS/BA in Economics, was a chef/cook for around 17 years got sick of working all the time in kitchens so I went to grad school at night and I got two masters one economics and then one in public administration. Now I have been an urban / school planner for 11 years. by the way calculus how economics is written.

75 and sunny here in Orlando. We did get some lows in the 40's this past weekend. Come on down we need the money!

I don't think you can expect to get an inch lower by removing the front spacers and for sure not by changing the spring perch pads. At best a half inch and you will have to take the springs off anyway. You may as well get the right ones on then.

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Hey ya know somthing? That is capitalism, every time you buy something do you demand to know the costs and profit margin and who is in the production, & where, etc? I doubt it. But regardless I don't get your persistance to flog this to death. Way better than I could make and cheeper so WTF?

Bummer, I went to dinner with my wife then I sat at home and watched football. I did not go. Next month for sure.

+1 if it came with the battery tray for say around $125 I would switch it out with my bolt on brace. Capitalism rules!!!!

Does anyone else wonder if that is the real weak point of the sway bars? Seems odd the bend is on 1/4 inch plate steel plate welded to a hollow bar steel. Would that be the place the stress bends occur? I mean with the alloy linkage and a rubber/urathain bushing you would think something would break prior to bending solid steel. Also the linkage is at least 2 inches to long as well. An installation problem for sure!! check the pics out in this car. http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll38/BobbyDigital080/2002/?albumview=slideshow

When starting my car with a few days rest (and now even afte it's warm and driven) the starter drags and seems to just be able to turn over. The battery is maybe two years old and seems ok. I am wondering if I need my starter rebuilt. I had my guy look at it and he said just use it till it dies fully and have it rebuilt. He uses a local shop and thinks that is better & more economical than getting a new or rebuilt one after market. Opinions?

Bummer, driving to no real destination and got pulled over by a motorcycle cop. Standard stuff , "I clocked you at 47 in a 35 and then 53 in a 40" as the speed limit increased. But after he took my info and came back to give me the bad news/good news, he actually gave me a ticket for "ignoring a traffic control device" essentially ignoring the speed limit sign(s) but not a speeding ticket! A $166 fine, but $100 bucks less in the Florida speeding fine and like I said NOT a speeding ticket. I figure I got off cheep and I was of course speeding , no question. I was wearing my new seat belts of course. Merry Christmas

OK OK They went in easy, lay flat, don't hang up in my door!, and are as smooth as butter. What they are not however, is, photogenic! they sure do look like seat blets.

Nice, I hated how my belts hung down in the door and would not retract. Now they zip back and feel smooth as butter as I clip in. Thanks to Al/Bluedevils for a nice job on them. I can't believe I took so long to do it!

Two things, my guy welded a bar into the corner of the engine mount up the side when I had the subframe rebuilt. Also CD, I have that "heat shield" in a box in my garage with parts the PO gave me. He had a header installed so I guess that never made it back in. Problem??? Been like that for the entire 8 years I have owned it

wow bummer! I see that your guy use the IE style rocker clamps & it looks like a nice rebuild. Did you get 100% new stuff, including the oil bar? I know when I rebuilt my valve train that I used new parts 100% including rocker shafts & the oil bar. Every part in there is important.

oh! oh! Can I be the first to say it??!?! There are tons of threads on this, just do a search.

I have not been out the last few months are we getting a good turnout? I would like to go though so if it is nice I will be there. Later.

I have a 32/36 and every time I ask my wrench about a 38/38 he tells me the same thing, not much improvement for the way I drive and a big hit in mileage. I am spending my money (lots of it!) elsewhere.

I found a NOS E21 head for $400 on Ebay got all new valve train for a total of around $700 so plus assembly by my mechanic it was around $1,000 for the whole NEW head, Shop around.

Holy Sh1T!! I would run away right now. I bought a true rust free car in Florida for $3500 and in 7 years added $10,000 in upgrades & replacement and I have not even painted it. That thing is a money pit. Needs thousands just to make it look like a car you would put in your driveway.

And that is a completely appropriate way to express your opinion. (In my opinion.)

Wow how rude! He made a good effort to describe each item and the price I see no problem at all. There is no reason for those types of comments here. This is not roadfly.