02Les

Looks like they are way too shiny.

Recaros is due to a built in design quirk - if you pull off the inner (center tunnel side) recliner cover, you'll find that the inner pivot is supported by a thick clock-spring, NOT a positive reclining mechanism. The clock spring resists backward movement of the seatback, but does not lock it in place like the outer recliner does, so constant pressure on the backrest causes the inner side of the seat back to sag, resulting in the backrest frame ultimately becoming warped or twisted (the bigger and/or heavier the person using the seat is, the sooner it happens). Twisting it back into it's original shape is only a temporary fix, and repeated bending can (and often does) cause the thin, stamped sheet metal seat shell to crack. I've been looking for a permanent fix for this problem for quite a while (my driver's seat has the same problem, and long drives now cause considerable back pain a day or two later) - the tenative solution below should work, but will require some welding, as well as canabalizing a second pair of seats for their recliner mechanisms and modifying the seat backs. Here's the proposed fix (verification will have to wait until one seat has been completed - I've got the extra parts on hand, and will be tackling this project fairly soon): The basic seat shell stampings appear to be symetrical (i.e. the passenger side and driver side seat backs are essentially interchangable) with two exceptions - there are two captive nuts welded inside the shell on the door side (they recieve the bolts for the upper part of the recliner), and there's a slotted stud on the tunnel side that the clock spring mounts to. Above the clock spring stud are the holes where a recliner mechanism would mount, but no captive nuts. At least two modifications to the seat back shell will be needed - a) the clock spring stud will have to be removed, and captive nuts will have to be welded in at the existing holes so a second recliner mechanism can be bolted to the center tunnel side of the seat. The end result will be a seat with TWO independent recliners (the original mechanism on the outside of the driver seat, and a passenger side mechanism on the inside - adjusting the backrest angle will require both hands), but both sides will be supported by a mechanical recliner, so sagging should be permanently eliminated. Some modification to the inner recliner mechanism will probably be required to eliminate the tilt-forward latch and allow the lever & cable on the door side to release the seat back to tilt forward - the other alternative will be to have two releases - one on each side, both of which will have to be lifted to tilt the seat forward. Interesting read Barry. I bought two real good passenger Recaros a while back from a junkyard for next to nothing. I figured it would be easy to convert a passenger seat into a drivers' seat....wrong! I can't believe Recaro made them that way; must have been designed by the apprentice. At least the seat squab is interchangeable, but the back is something else. Keep us posted on your fix though.

I'm with everyone else on this....don't mess with the hub unless you have problems with the rear wheel bearings. However, if you're determined, then you need an M36 socket. Probably when you've priced one and the breaker bar to fit it, you'll leave the hub alone.

This is one I started earlier. Sold it in 1989, wonder if it's still alive?

GN-GE also goes from the Horn Relay to the Horn(s) and inside the cabin from Hazard Switch to Turn Indicator switch. SW-GE from Wiper Speed Swicth to Wiper Motor and Fuse Box to driver side Headlamp Not sure if the above is correct for your '71 but it is for my '74 (built late '73).

From memory (not always good), all you need for the gauge cluster is the 2 x black wires connected to the back of the tach. Plus, obviously, the big 12 pin connector. The rubber half-moon cover hides the connector for the tii clock, or the regular clock if you had an Auto car.

1748598 ('72 2002) is a car from ETS Moorkens, Kontich, Belgium and was alive a year ago. 3689601 ('75 2002) also, supposedly, has Moorkens VIN plate, but this number is in the normal BMW VIN list!

Like Esty said, I thought the idea was to place it over the existing one.

It's neat, but takes a while to get to where you need to be if no real high speed server. I'm biased though, I like this one (it's got current prices too):- http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com//

There's an earth connection in the boot/trunk. It connects to both taillight clusters and the fuel float/sender. As your having problems with all the lights I would follow the wiring and find that earth point and clean it up (make sure it's connected to metal & not British Racing Rust)

Certainly there is a wider market if you use Ebay. However, if you check the completed listings the cars do not always sell. Currently of 27 completed listings 14 did not meet the reserve or received no bids. The Seller can always offer the car to one of the Bidders, and I suspect this happens frequently. A fair few '02s on Ebay are relisted several times before finally being sold, and, naturally, at a lower price than the seller first envisaged.

Was that a "down under" factory placement. I thought 'the" place was alongside the front windscreen. It was popular in the UK for the dealers to install a chrome roof aerial, which I think looks best.

Fernando, do you have any further info on these cars? Are they still alive and well in Uruguay? Any info appreciated.

Excellent Mike. Perhaps safe to assume then, that 1770030 a '67 known to exist a few years back would be a 1600, and the higher 177XXXX VINs are 2002s.

I do not know the complete number run, other than they start with, as you say, 177. 1770030 is (or was in 2004) owned by Pablo Acosta, Montevideo, Uruguay. Not sure if the earlier numbers (ie 1770030) are 2002s or 1602s?

Here's a picture

You are correct; automatics only had a starter relay, although i've no idea where it resides. I believe it's wired into a sensor which may be to ensure you have the gearshift in "park". So it could be that sensor?

That has become an excellent Site. Same format as RealOem but with up to date pricing and the ability to buy. Also good to know what has ENDED and not available, and ENDED but still available. Great job by Max or Bill or both.

According to the post on bimmerforums by Keith, you may need to put your plans on hold. Maybe I can plan ahead to be there next time. Cheers.

Well, that's a shock. Thanks for letting us know. I never had communications with Mitch, but know him as a good contributor to the Faq forum.

The idea of a Universal Joint is to transmit rotary motion between two shafts that are not in line. However, from memory, the BMW manual insists on having everything in a straight line, which defeats the object of the UJs. Maybe the centre bearing (being rubber) is the weak link? One would think if you had the transmission output shaft/Guibo and the centre bearing in line and an upward angle of a few degrees to the diff, all would be well. UJs like to be angled as it works the lube (grease) around its rotating parts. Another of life's mysteries.

That connector is hosed to the block just above the Starter.

That part # 16 14 1 179 992 is for an E30 (according to RealOem.com). I took one of those out of my parts car.......I wondered what it was!

Haha, I love it how people can justify paying interest for using credit card or pay-pal. I guess that's what you get for paying such low prices. I think BLUNT's being perfectly honest. PayPal charges the Seller for its services, so the item becomes more expensive. The Buyer can decide to send a cheque (cost of a stamp) or add PayPal's charges.

That's exactly the one. I guess there were only 20+, not 40+. It's an age thing.