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Just bought a 74


ZBock60

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Hi, I'm new to the world of 2002s but I have been haging around the FAQ for a few weeks learning and gathering information. I just bought a running 74 with a lot of extra parts and plan to use the car as my daily driver with a few updates. I set myself a budget of $5000 to make the reliable and perform a little better. My first question is does this seem like a reasonable budget? Also what are some things I should look at replacing/rebuilding first? I just would like to know what would be the top prioity of making sure the car is safe and won't destroy itself while I drive it. On my list of upgrades are refreshing the entire suspension, an msd electronic ignition, and new clutch. Then in the future rebuild the extra engine that comes with the car. This is kind of the order I plan on rebuilding the car in. Another question I had was what in your opinions are the best manuals to have when working on these cars? I have a haynes right now but would like another hard copy book if necessary. I also plan on posting some pictures in the projects area. Thanks for any input.

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First thing I'd do is go through the brakes. Flush the system and make sure everything is up to snuf. And if you really get a wild hair, upgrade them as it's fairly simple and there are a number of tutorials on this site and PLENTY of people who can answer questions for you along the way.

And I think $5K is reasonable to get this car safe and driving well BUT you didn't give us much info to go on as to its condition... Keep the shiny side up!

Matthew

Chastity: the most unnatural of sexual perversions.

74 tii, 99 BMW R1100R, 99 E320, 01 S4 Avant

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Assuming you don't have major rust issues, $5K should be ample.

As above - do the Brakes first - bleed, adjust, new pads and shoes. Properly adjusted rears are key to a good pedal feel. Change the diff/trans fluids now too.

then tires and suspension - bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks/struts (unless it already has bilsteins).

Then get under the hood.

Welcome!

Paul in Richmond
'70 Chamonix
'85 535i, 2000 R1100R

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My advice would be to avoid the "bling" type upgrades i.e. seats, wheels, upholstery, etc. until after you've gone through the car mechanically. Brakes, belts, hoses, bearings. structural suspension components, wiring, etc. don't have the glamour factor, but they sure add to the integrity of your car. There's plenty of time for the other stuff. As fars as manuals, keep your eyes open for the factory blue books. Do a search on this forum to get an idea of what they are and what to look for. There are even reprints of these that come up from time to time on this forum as well as Ebay. Chilton and Clymer both have decent manuals. Out of print or used books come up often on Amazon at very decent prices. McCartney's restoration guide has lots of useful info, too. And don't be afraid to ask questions on this forum. The information here is invaluable.

Never let school get in the way of your education!

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You'll get a lot of help here if you edit your message and put in some details like how long it's been sitting or if it was in use.

Besides the brakes which really are the first thing, I'd recommend replacing the hoses and belts when you flush and refill the radiator. You could at the same time change the thermostat so you wont have to revisit the job later - keep the old one as a spare (we all do). I'd do the same with the plugs/wires/cap and keep them as spares as well.

Also drain and refill the transmission and differential. You don't need the fancy stuff if you do that once a year.

Get some biodegradable degreaser and clean the engine 1st - it's no fun working on a crud encrusted machine. It's also much better when you look for leaks after you'v had it running. Cover the distributor with a baggie and some foil before you do this so you wont mess up the ignition.

Check the 2 rubber drains in the space between the engine and the cabin and make sure they allow water out.

Motor mounts - does the engine shake when idling? When it's off try pushing on the engine sideways from left to right to see if the mounts are still attached and whole

How are the seat belts? Is the steering tight and no clunks?

Last - if the car did sit for any length of time drain and refill the gas tank and change the filter AFTERwards.

Post some pix and good luck!

Is fuel efficiency really what we need most desperately? I say what we really need is a car that can be shot when it breaks down.

- George Carlin

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Thanks for the help so far! I have posted some pictures and as far as I know it hasn't been sitting long. It was driven daily up until about a month ago when the owner got a new car. The car is currently driveable and I drove it from Denver to Colorado Springs.

If I am going to work on the brakes first should I do the brake upgrade? I like that the car has 2 brake lines per front cliper, is there an upgrade I can do and keep the dual lines? I spoke with a guy that said he used a setup off a valvo but I don't remember what model mainly becasue this was before I had purchased the 2002. Thanks for your help.

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Congrats! I'm just 8 weeks into my '76 and loving it.

Rather than MSD or Pertronix, I prefer the Crane XR700, XR3000 system, it uses an optical trigger and installation is foolproof. Crane Cams was sold recently, but the units are still available, though you may need to hunt for them.

I have used MSD and Pertronix in the past and they're a definite improvement over points/condenser. But, the Crane system is a definite improvement over the MSD/Pertronix, esp. if fitting to an old dist.

That said, I lust after an electromotive crank triggered system with separate coilpaks, but I don't want to have to take out a mortgage for the ignition system.

Cheers!

1976 BMW 2002

1990 BMW 325is (newest addition)

1990 Porsche 964 C4 Cabriolet

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15 minute job :

remove the 3-nuts at the top of the front struts - at

the inner fender, jack up the car - push down on the wheel

to lower the strut and fish your hand up to the top,

underneath the weel well, and wiggle out a thick aluminum spacer

ring sitting up on top of the strut, lift the strut/wheel up

back in to it's hole and start the nuts finger tight- and lower

to the ground to finish tightening those 3-nuts (6 total)

now your car will handle, steer, feel better.

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'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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You'd be surprised how good the stock brake set up is when you have all new parts on the car.

Everybody says "oh my brakes suck, I need to go with big brakes" when all they really need to do is replace all the worn out stock parts.

If you want some instant gratification, give a shot at polishing the paint. Glosshaus is a pretty good product http://www.shop-atlantic-euro.com/servlet/the-GlossHaus-Detailing-System/Categories as is Meguair's . You can do it by hand or get an electric polisher.

"SAVE 'EM FROM THE CRUSHER !"

_____________________________

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You'd be surprised how good the stock brake set up is when you have all new parts on the car.

Everybody says "oh my brakes suck, I need to go with big brakes" when all they really need to do is replace all the worn out stock parts.

+ 2 on the above, I've have done upgraded front brakes before & yea it's better, but unless you are going to auto x or put in 290 cam etc... Stock brakes on these cars are excellent, when properly maintained. You might look at replacing the rubber brake hoses front & back if you plan on going through the brakes. They are likely still the original hoses & new hoses will improve brake feel, and are easy to change. Be sure to get wrenches made for flared brake fittings when removing brake lines, regular wrenches will tend to strip the fittings.

2002 owner since 1980

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Thanks for all the advice! I plan an eventual replacing the engine with a 160 horse m10. I have an extra engine to start building with but its not a priority. I will start with the brakes. Does anyone know about the volvo front brake upgrade I posted previously? I think I will upgrade the brakes while im in there and its winter hear in CO so I won't be driving the car too much anyway.

I think then I will move on to the suspension.

Thanks again.

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