Rear Axle remove from trailing arms

[granth]

What is the process to get the rear stub axles out of the trailing arms? I was able to press the axle loose but it hits the trailing arm and will not come out. Also was not able to get the bearings inside to move at all any tips/ticks? Here are a couple of pictures...

thanks

http://www.brakefade.com/files/fs/bmw_2002_outer_axle_inside.JPG

http://www.brakefade.com/files/fs/bmw_2002_outer_axle_inside_contact.JPG

http://www.brakefade.com/files/fs/bmw_2002_outer_axle_outside.JPG

I know the nut needs to come, but was using it with a puller to try and push the bearings out?

[76duece]

If you are trying to get the stub out without taking that nut off, it ain't gonna happen. Get that nut off and use a drift to punch the axle out. If nothing is spinning, it sounds like the bearings are in heaven somewhere. Get some new ones. Autohauz sells a nice rear bearing kit with the axle seals included-last time I checked. Also, when it does come apart, note the order of the spacer and the thin washer like shim. That has to go back correctly with the correct one in the correct axle. It is critical, otherwise you're gonna have to measure them and the trailing arm it self to get the right one back in the correct arm.

[brad_c-ville_VA]

you can't push the outer bearing inward through the hub. there is a center piece inside the hub that will keep it from going through. like mentioned above, you have to use a drift punch and tap them out from the back side.

i used a hammer, some pieces of 2x4 and patience to get the axle out. to reinstall new bearings i used a piece of gas pipe that was nearly the same diameter as the bearing's outer race. greased up the bearings real good, stuck 'em in the freezer overnight and installed them using the pipe and a hammer to tap them in. i used my drift punch to *carefully* tap at 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock on the outer races once i thought the bearings were in as far as i could hammer them.

good luck!

[scestes]

I just did this with the trailing arms for a 2800cs, and though it's a little different, in the end it's kinda the same. For the 2002 you would do it like this.

1) get the nut off with an impact wrench or huge breaker bar

2) use a gear puller on the wheel spindle. Throw the impact on the gear puller and it will ease off really easy.

3) Use a drift to drive the stub axel through with a good heavy wooden mallet or the like.

4) use the gear puller on the bearing if it's stuck to the stub axel

5) drive any bearings in the trailing arm out by alternating blows against 4 alternating edges

this is the procedure I just used on my CS trailing arms.

[TobyB]

Your pics are awfully close, but are we looking at E21 trailing arms with perches welded on?

The stub axle should clear the perches as it comes out... BFcopperHammer's always done the deal for me, and

I've done way too many of these...

t

[PeterVarga]

Removal of stub axle on 2002 trailing arm is with 20 ton bench press. Disconnect half-shafts, brakes etc. Remove pivot bolts and place

entire trailing arm on platen of press. Support work with metal blocks and 4x4 blocks. Place metal rod or pipe between end of press piston and work. Outer diam of rod must pass through support structure of

trailing arm. Remember to press from outside toward inside.

In same manner, use pipe coupler inside tube to press against outer

race of bearing. Stack rod/pipe through inside and press out each

side while supporting work on metal blocks. Slowly press parts apart. They move when there is enough pressure on them. I guarantee it. Be safety conscious becaause if the work shifts, it can be dangerous. Keep body parts a safe distance from trajectory path and wear safety goggles!

There is a bearing removal tool that fits inside the tube and serves as a resting point for your push rod or pipe. Powerbuilt tools has a moderate cost offering.

[c.d.iesel]

.....do not bugger-up #5, the bearing spacer tube inside !

Access to a TON-PRESS is best - but with patience,

a holding vice, brass punches, HUGE-Hammer.......

Assembly is more important - not damaging the new bearings,

causing new ball dimples in the new races. Got a

machine shop nearby that can help you? Final torqueing

of the axle nut is best left when the control arm is back on

the car and it's sitting on the ground, brakes bleed, and

an assistant holding the brakes on for you.

[BillWilliams]

in this article in the FAQ Construction Zone for a few pictures to describe what the fellows above describe.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/p,408925/#408925

One of those big 1/2" IR air guns is your best good friend to remove and install that big nut. My IR gun has never balked at that nut.

[granth]

Got them out thanks for the help, the problem was the flange that supports the rear spring it would not allow the axle to come out (see pic) and you can see the spot where it would hit. So maybe the trailing arm is bent? The other side came right out without any problem past the flange.

thanks

http://www.brakefade.com/files/fs/bmw_2002_rear_trailing_arm_flange.jpg

[bmw1602.com]

Just removed mine and started to box them......for sure take some measurements! Might be bent!!!!!!!!

Also MAKE sure to properly brace/fixture/jig the trailing arm during the welding.....leave it fixtured until totally cool down....

take more measurements after, to make sure nothing warped.

Preparation is everything in welding. Cleaning/grinding/fixturing... The actually welding is only 10% of the process.

be careful...... always take some measurements......