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Have any of you converted into synthetic?


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If you change your oil on a regular basis(every 3k), it's not worth the change to synthetic. Anymore, it's tough to justify the expense for synthetic in a street car.

Cris

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we did in benetton's 76, which we had rebuilt the motor, broke it in for 5k miles on dino oil, the switched to synthetic. no oil burn after 30k before we sold the car.

i tried it in my e30 318is, and wound up using a qt/1700 miles, so i went back to dino.

for new motors, once broken it correctly, its the way to go.

72 2002tii

1988 535is  “Maeve”

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I have been using synthetic oil for more than 15 years. It is simply a better oil.

I agree with Lee, only put me back to 29 years. I chose it to handle the added heat when I turbo'd my 02 then and after sending samples to oil labs for anaylsis at 12K miles with "ok to contionue to use" results, I am certain a good synthetic is superior! (my NA cars were sampled and run the oil to 30K miles). Try that with dino oil that come with extras (their own contaminants in the bottle).

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Does synthetic do any good to reduce oil burning at all? I never really look at the stuff because I wasn't even aware that it could be used in the M10.

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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Does synthetic do any good to reduce oil burning at all? I never really look at the stuff because I wasn't even aware that it could be used in the M10.

You ask "at all". Oil consumption, yes, burning no, Oil leakage no.

If you have leaks, fix them if there was something in the oil that plugged the leaks, it would plug other places too, so no is the answer.

Oil burning, no, that is mechanical wear and it can't be fixed either. If you have stuck rings, your engine is in bad shape, get some Auto-RX (it dissolves deposites and lands them in the oil filter-have Chev photos), it may loosen them so they seal again. I would also use this stuff in a barn find engine that has been sitting.

Oil consumption - yes, technically, but probably not noticable unless your oil is running very hot. Hot oil boils away (up to 25% by volume depending on oil quality). The best synthetics in the same ASTM test are down to about 5%, poor synthetics, about 15%. If you wanna know, search the web for oil volatility.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Wow, thank you for your very long and detailed answer to my question. I know what my engine needs in terms of rebuild, so that's not the issue I was concerned with. But I will consider the options you have given me.

If you wanna know, search the web for oil volatility.

I think you may mean "oil viscosity", right?

1. the state or quality of being viscous.

2. Physics. a. the property of a fluid that resists the force tending to cause the fluid to flow.

b. the measure of the extent to which a fluid possesses this property.

"My dad was right, it was cheaper just to buy a new car."

'75 Golf Yellow Automatic 2002 with Weber 32/36 DGAV - "Karl"

railwayKarl-1.jpg

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I have got to agree with Lee on this one too. I am using Red Line in both the 02 and the new MINI. That stuff is just great protection should anything out of the ordinary be encountered in the engine. I do change it regularly too (6K) with a filter. MINI recommends changing it at 15K!

BTW, no oil burning in either car. The 02 has 80K on the current engine.

Good Luck,

Mike (#87)

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In my 4x4 diesel work truck i use all synthetic gear oils,which i change yearly at around 1200hrs.

I change the dino engine oil VERY regularly. (every 150hrs) After more than 9000hrs the inside of the engine still looks new !!

Mal.

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