engine and drivetrain Replacing Flex Disk

[outgear]

The Flex Disk on my 1975 2002 has pretty well disintegrated. I'm in the middle of replacing it and can't figure out how to get at the nuts that are facing the transmission. The transmission support is blocking access and I can't get a wrench on them. I searched the forum and from the posts it seemed pretty straight forward with no mention of any access problems. Is there some trick I am missing?

Thanks,

Bruce

1975 2002 Sienabraun

[_z_]

when we did mine on the lift I think we had to rotate the shaft to get to all of them ???

Don't quote me on that one tho.

BTW: my mechanic buddy calls those 'shimmy biscuits'

[BLUNT]

mmmmmmm biscuits

[Supergeek]

When my father and I replaced mine we put the front of the car on ramps and lifted the rear on stands. We did remove the transmission cross member and placed some wood under the transmission to support it. Leave the car in neutral so you can rotate the driveshaft by hand. Its much easier to loosen the bolts that way. You might have to loosen the center bearing too. Just remember to line up the trans and driveshaft or the guibo will fail prematurely. The bolts were a pain in the ass to remove, but putting everything back together was easier. Good luck.

David

[outgear]

Thanks for sharing your experience. I was hoping not to remove the cross member since no one else mentioned it, but I was coming to the conclusion that it was going to be the easiest answer.

Bruce

[KFunk]

There's no need to remove the cross-member, but it is a tight fit to get the wrench in there. You should be able to get enough hold on it to break the bolt loose. I've done it twice with rear of car on jackstands, and never removed the cross-member. Yes, I usually rotate the rear wheels/driveshaft to get to bolts I need, then set parking brake to get it loose.

[DanOKC]

Agreed, I've never pulled a crossmember to change a flex disc. Most but not all 17 mm wrench, open end type will fit in there on front side of the crossmember.

[outgear]

I'll take a look at it again tomorrow. I could get a wrench on both sides of the other four and was able to get those loose. My wrench just may not be in the "most" category for the nuts on the transmission side. I couldn't figure out how to get the wrench in there with the cross member in the way.

Thanks for all the help.

Bruce

[rabbit]

Just did mine 2 weekends ago with out removing cross member. I was able to use one of those boxed end wrenches that hinge right near the box to secure those boltheads facing the trans. Check your manual and replace your center bearing if it looks bad while the whole mess is apart.

[Guest Anonymous]

the 17mm bent end wrench in the original tool kit is ideal for holding the nuts while you turn the bolts

[c.d.iesel]

as you see in the photo above WHEN you install the new GUIBO,

insert the new bolts in alternate direction. Your nuts should be with the trans metal flange, or the metal d-shaft flange. NOT with the rubber guibo.

Please use only new BMW bolts and nuts with washers. These should be

high strength and with a locking nut. If your reusing GOOD correct hardwear, use BLUE 242 LocTite on clean threads. DO NOT remove the metal band that comes with the new GUIBO untill all the bolts are in place.

The band aids in alignment of the flanges and guibo holes.

When you reinstall the trans support - renew the mount - they take

a beating and wear/fail quickly. Pack fresh wheel bearing grease into the front of the d-shaft flange hole that slides on the trans output shaft.

Inspect the center d-shaft rubber hanger and beariing at this time.

Exhaust pipe bracket at the trans, and adjustment of the trans shifter platform up against the tunnel floor(with insulatinig pad)should also be checked at this time.

have fun and work safe !!

[outgear]

Thanks for all the info. I'll be back under the car later this week for the second attempt.

Bruce