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tii still not running - please help before I shoot myself!


adamm

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this is nearly driving me to tears! the car's almost done, the sun's shining but for the life of me I cant get my car running right! I have been through EVERYTHING for about the fifth time this weekend, checked the checks, adjusted the adjustments and still the engine either revs to 4000 rpm (this is at "idle") and then stalls or barely runs at all before stalling. Nothing appears to be stuck open but is there maybe something internally I'm missing/unable to see that is making it occasionally run up to 4000 rpm? Another weird symptom is that the throttle has no effect on anything. I can put my foot flat on the floor and it wont run up over 4k and on the occasions where the engine is barely running, standing on the accelerator does nothing either. Has anybody else here experienced this - does anybody have any idea what it might be?! pleeeeeease help! sob...

'73 tii arancio borealis - finished?!

'74 lux fjord - gone :(

'73 3.0csi polaris

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slow down, Patience, and put the gun down.

Now - List in full detail your 'Checks' and what you have 'done'

and did you actually look at the throttle linkage and it's movement in the

engine room while the gas pedal is being depressed to see what was-not

actuating ?? Blind Long Distance Diagnosis needs great amount of history

and details as to exactly what you call 'Checking'.

When did this start happening? What was done to the car JUST before

this condition ? - need more info man.

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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ok, i've put the gun down...

i took on the whole car as an unfinished resto about 3 years ago. the guy i bought it off told me he'd had it a couple of years but it turned out he'd actually had it ten when i finally got my hands on the registration documents.

so fast-forward a little and here i am. the engine was completely torn-down, all the necessary machine-work done by a local well-trusted shop. new pistons, bearings, oil-pump etc. list is almost endless i think! head required very little work. injectors were sent for inspection and found to be in good order. only thing that wasn't worked on was the kugelfischer as i believe that they cant really be worked on right? this however has since had the new little seals (i forget their correct name) as it was weeping some fuel the first time it was started up. it has also had new points, condensor, cap, plugs and leads. there is not much that isn't new. the distributor is original but seems to be in good condition.

in terms of checks the timing is dead on - as far as it can be when your car will only run at 4k rpm, i have been unable to run a light on it - and i have been through the kugelfischer set-up manual several times now using my home-made tools. i'm pretty confident that i have this set with in a tolerance that would allow a good level of running - know what i mean?

the throttle linkage actuates all the way up to (and including) the butterfly in the throttle body.

really dont know where else to turn cause i dont have a trailer to take it somewhere and obviously it's undrivable as it is!

i think i have covered everything here that i can. any help or pointers no matter how small would be much appreciated. i am quite mechanically minded although nowhere near an expert and i'm not frightened to have a go myself but this really does have me beaten at this point!

'73 tii arancio borealis - finished?!

'74 lux fjord - gone :(

'73 3.0csi polaris

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fuel pump?

The manual tells ways to measure the amount of fuel that it should deliver in a certain time frame.'

I installed a small fuel pressure guage after the fuel filter and before the Kuglefisher pump. Twice this has helped me diagnose a failing electric pump and dirty fuel filter.

I have never had a tii act like this, I am thinking. A faulty fuel pressure problem may cause a situation like you outline.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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either or you may hava huge vacumn leak.

3421912 hasd plastic which are leakers .little rubber o rings

but the orange car ran like that with a vacumn leak

use wd 40 spray around the whole system to find a leak

If you have plastic tubes email me or call 361 526 2675

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right then, answer a few questions.

it's a new fuel pump so I haven't checked this - perhaps this is something to do.

the inlets are metal so (hopefully) no leaks there but i will check. however, i have always been a bit suspicious of the servos function. would a vacuum leak really cause such a huge surge? i assume i could simply test this by removing the hose from the servos and plugging the end?

'73 tii arancio borealis - finished?!

'74 lux fjord - gone :(

'73 3.0csi polaris

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I don't know much about tii's, but i would upgrade to petronix in this whole process. I've had *similar* problems with bad points - but not that bad. Otherwise, yeah sounds like a vacuum leak.

Patrick Sloan

1975 inka 2002 - 2375719

1991 325iC

2001 325i

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first or a linkage problem. but I admit it is really wierd. I had that happened to me once, something got stuck on one of my butterflies and could not close - the engine rev steady at 4k (I am running 4 butterfly a4 system but I would have the same effect on a reg. tii).

I would test it for leaks by spraying starting fluid or like (make sure you use extreme caution and have a extinguisher handy), around the intake manifold.

You can also isolate the injection pump from the intake butterfly (by removing one of the linkages) and move those independently from each other throughout the range. Eg: with the butterfly in the closed position slide the pump lever from idle to WOT and see what happens. With the pump at idle move the butterfly from closed to WOT. You might be able to gain the insight you need to solve the problem.

I believe you are close to getting it running right, it is probably something simple - sometimes you just have to step back, take a break and it will just click! Good luck

FAQ Member # 91

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You might have igniton issues too. I'd get rid of the points and get a pertronix electronic ignition system. I got a system on fleabay for under $100 and it made my car run great. I was having problems of it breaking up under load and the electronic ignition and new spark plug wires helped a ton. It feels like a new car. I also got the bosch blue coil w/ the internal resistor which helped too. Anyway, just some ignition suggestions. good luck.

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This is weird because some of your symptoms aren't consistent with what you are telling us.

If you hold your accelerator pedal or throttle linkage down flat or up and nothing changes in the car's idle - that would point to a linkage problem. Make sure it isn't something goofy like you connections to the pump are reversed or something weird - just a thought. I know you've checked the linkage but verify all the way from the pedal box up (again) :)

Let's rule out what it isn't.

It's not electrical

It's most likely not ignition

* the points handle spark

* the plugs are spark and combustion

It's obviously not a cooling issue

That leaves air intake, fuel delivery or fuel related items and/or mechanical (linkage, etc.).

1. Are you sure the accelerator isn't binding and not fully returning to its upright position?

2. Have you adjusted the screw inside the TB (i.e. the can on top)?

3. Also, like another member mentioned - check for vacuum leaks

4. What happens if you pump your brakes continuously? does it affect the idle?

5. Is the return spring working on your TB shaft?

apr03-fi-lines.jpg

Timing would be suspect too if it was way too advanced but you said you checked that. If you can really try and find a timing gun to be sure.

Make sure you have the O-rings on the intake as pictured too. This could be contributing to a vacuum leak and check the plastic tubes (if you have plastic ones) as they are prone to cracking.

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Ok, I'm sure you have checked this, but...

... is the idle screw on the tuna can (on top of the throttle body, the external screw) screwed in too far?

You might have a look inside the tuna can to be sure the small spring has not sprung.

Good luck, and report back!

Cheers,

Ray

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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bloody hell! you guys have given me some serious research to do! and i'm stuck here at my desk! want to get home and get it cracked now.

many many thanks to you all for your contributions, as ever i dont know what i'd do without you. i'll let you know how (if?) i get on!

cheers

'73 tii arancio borealis - finished?!

'74 lux fjord - gone :(

'73 3.0csi polaris

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