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Trying to sort 1600


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Hello all! New to the forum here.

I have owned 2 2002 in the past, a 1972 and a 1973. I just trailered home a 1969 1600 that was a project/track car for a previous owner.. all of the work looks to be well done but there are a few areas of concern and sadly I am now in the process of sorting out what to keep and what to replace… the first issue is the brakes… they work, -ish.. the pedal goes all the way to the floor and will stop the car but dont inspire any confidence whatsoever..

the fluid reservoir is full and I dont see any obvious leaks…. Any thoughts on where to start sorting this are very welcome.

cheers

T

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I would bleed the brakes first see if things firm up before starting to throw parts at it, that will come soon enough.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Shoot us a picture of one of the calipers, too-

the early 1600's had tiny 2- pot calipers for a while,

and they were paired with that style main reservoir...

 

The reason I mention this is that they are the only '02 series brakes that aren't worth fixing.

But if it was a track car, it may have something much, much bigger.

 

The rear shoes, if not adjusted, can eat up a LOT of pedal travel.

 

t

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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It looks like an early 69 1600 with single circuit brakes. I have just such a car in almost stock configuration with the original brakes. As mentioned above it's probably the MC or brake shoes in need of adjustment. While inspecting the brake shoes also inspect the drums for wear. Badly worn drums cause also cause such symptoms. If you need to replace the MC, the 320 MC is a direct replacement except that the fluid reservoir tank is of a different shape. The 320i MC is readily available and affordable.

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There's a chance that the setup has never worked properly. E.g. the master cylinder may be too small for the calipers mounted. But more information is needed. Also 1502 has 2-piston calipers that are weak. The pads are sized like a larger side post stamp.

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Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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It looks like your calipers are on the wrong side, do the bleeders point up or down?

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I’m a little embarrassed to say that I didn’t even look. I will check tomorrow when I pull the rear wheels off. Thank you.

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Dangus- those are either 320 or 1600 calipers.

They only have one bleeder, on the back.

 

Having 'been there and done that' in your loafers I'd find a couple of 

late 320I hubs, some vented Volvo calipers, and buy a pair of 1977 vented rotors.

And then find some 0.070" fender washers, and have big front brakes.

 

Because everything else takes maintenance, and the big Volvo brakes last approximately forever.

 

Plus, when you do need to work on them, they're easy, whereas the stock system involves taking the hub

off to change a rotor.  And then unbolting the rotor, which is a right pain.

 

t

eats dessert first, too.

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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8 minutes ago, TobyB said:

and the big Volvo brakes last approximately forever.

Just like their cars😎.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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