76 2002 brake master options

[Markwemple]

I haveca stock 1976 2002 and have to sort out the brakes. I noticed that the early e21 master is cheaper than the one for my 76, and more plentiful. Is this a good option/upgrade or are their better options? Since I'm having to replace a lot of the braking system, are there worthwhile mods to make? TIA.

[John76]

The '76 master cylinder provides two pipes to each of the front calipers. One plus the pipe to the rear brakes is the primary circuit.

The second pipe to each front caliper is the back-up braking system.  The later E21 did away with the backup and only have one pipe to each caliper....therefore  40% less expensive (total of 3 pipes vs 5). 😒

 

[Santawillis]

I had a very unpleasant experience with the URO Master, switched to ATE and it works like a charm! 

 

Rafael

[Markwemple]

Where's the best place to buy a rebuilt one?

[Santawillis]

1 hour ago, Markwemple said:

Where's the best place to buy a rebuilt one?

I would just swing for a new one, but you can find rebuild kits and folks have had success rebuilding theirs! What does the master look like? 

[Markwemple]

13 minutes ago, Santawillis said:

I would just swing for a new one, but you can find rebuild kits and folks have had success rebuilding theirs! What does the master look like? 

I haven torn it down to see if there is any pitting or scoring

[Santawillis]

How does it look from the outside? See if the booster has any sign of fluid, usually a good sign of a bad master! Are you yanking it because you are not getting fluid at the calipers? It could be swollen lines to the calipers and drums, especially if they are original! 

 

I think my original set up works just fine for most of my spirited driving, a new master definitely helped.

 

Rafael

[Markwemple]

It has corrosion on the outside. I'm going through the system because a line blew and want to be sure the rest is 100%. I'm replacing all the hard and sof lines and slave cylinders and taking  a close look at the calipers to see the seals, bore and bleeder.

[tech71]

59 minutes ago, Markwemple said:

I'm going through the system because a line blew and want to be sure the rest is 100%

Then replace everything, Not aware of anyone selling "rebuilt" MCs, thats telling.

Brake fluid attracts water like crazy.

[Mike Self]

When you pull your M/C, run your fingernail down inside the cylinder bore.  If you can feel pits with your fingernail, try honing the cylinder.  If that doesn't work., you might check with White Post Restorations (White Post VA).  They will bore and sleeve the cylinder with brass or stainless steel to standard size, the fit with all new innards.  That may be less expensive than a new ATE M/C.

 

mike

[Markwemple]

42 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Then replace everything, Not aware of anyone selling "rebuilt" MCs, thats telling.

Brake fluid attracts water like crazy.

Rebuilt was an assumption. I've found that a lit of new bits are rebuilt. Just mostly new stuff but with an original body. Like a m/c with new seals, rod, piston and so on, but relined body.  Built to as new specs. Hell. We had a "new" hot water heater installed a couple of years ago, but the plumber admitted there were probably some used bits in it due to covid shortage issues