Branch Stub / Divider / Temp Sensor Housing Leak

[its55]

It appears that I have a coolant leak between the subject fitting (see pic) and the head. Previous owner refurbished the cylinder head and perhaps did not properly install / seal the gasket, I assume. Can the branch stub be removed without removing the intake manifold?  Looking at things including the pic it appears that it can. Hoping I can carefully remove and reseal. I know the gasket is shared with the intake manifold. Also wondering if coolant can leak through the stud similar to how studs can leak oil on the exhaust side. 

[Son of Marty]

Yes it can be removed with just removing the one shared nut and washer with the front of the intake mani and of course the one long stud on the branch itself. before you tear into it make sure you have a thick washer between the mani and water elbow that sits flat between the two.

['76mintgrün'02]

Check the thickness of the flanges shared by that stud/washer/nut to make sure they're the same thickness.  If they're not, the thinner one will not be clamped down tight, since the thicker one will hold the washer out.  If they're not the same, you can grind the tall one shorter, or make a stepped washer to clamp them evenly.

 

Here's another discussion on the topic.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

This stuff works well with anti-freeze (and oil).  I used it on the nipple feeding the intake manifold on my divider, because it leaked after I turned the hose clamp over (to put the mechanism on the bottom).  There was some chalkiness under the hose and pitting on the nipple, so I used a wire brush to clean it and applied SUPER "300" before slipping the hose back on.  That fixed it.

 

 

 

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION

Permatex Super “300” Form-A-Gasket Sealant is a non-hardening sealant designed to resist heat transfer fluids such as oil or antifreeze. Super “300” resists antifreeze, aviation, fuels, aggressive detergent bearing oils and lubricants.

[Mike Self]

In addition...

Check the mating surface of the fitting:  clean it well, then look for pitting, and also place it against a piece of glass to make sure it's flat.  Over-enthusiastic tightening of the two nuts can bow it just enough to make it leak, and cranking down the nuts more will...make it leak more.  This often happens to valve covers...

 

If you do find the surface isn't flat, take a sheet of emery cloth, tape it to a piece of glass and sand away. After a few strokes, if it's warped you'll see fresh metal around the stud holes but not in the middle.  Be careful to press evenly so you keep it flat against the emery cloth/glass. 

 

mike

[its55]

As usual, all great and useful suggestions! Thanks to all.  I'll probably get started on this after next week and will keep ya'll informed.