M10 + E12 Carnage & Rebuild

[ajordan282]

2 hours ago, Aaron R said:

This is rad. I am down the valley from you in Staunton and remember when that car sold. Mine is a Malaga-ish '74 tii. I very, very nearly did a full rebuild last summer but decided to slam it back together and run it for now. Got a set of injectors from Marty, as well as gaskets and borrowed some tools. Left the pump alone once I freed it up. Marty rules.

 

Excited to see how the rest of the build goes.

 

Might have to pick your brain about the machinist when the time comes ...

Very cool that you recognize the car!

 

A lot of good machinists down your way! When I was in school in Charlottesville there were several around. And after school I ran a CNC business and we outsourced some work to guys in Staunton and Lynchburg. Up here in northern Virginia there aren’t many engine machining options but the guy I ended up using is awesome. Super particular and very willing to share knowledge. Just what I need lol. 

[Tommy]

That's the camshaft locating pin. I don't think it's used with any style of oil pump gears so it is a bit weird that it's delivered with oil pump chain.

[ajordan282]

7 hours ago, Tommy said:

That's the camshaft locating pin. I don't think it's used with any style of oil pump gears so it is a bit weird that it's delivered with oil pump chain.

sweet. I had sort of come to the conclusion that it was added to the bag by mistake or as a courtesy for something they thought I might need. Given that the order included all the motor chains and sprockets including an adjustable cam gear, a cam locating pin would make sense!! 

[ajordan282]

Head is torqued!

 

timing chain feels pretty tight. Not sure what’s up with that. The tensioning rail is all the way bottomed out on the inside of the timing cover. It is a new chain, new guide and tensioner, new crank sprocket, and new IE cam sprocket….so maybe that’s why? read on here of another case or two that are similar in terms of seeming too tight. Open to criticisms.  
 

speaking of criticisms, it seems like my $166 dollar bolt kit doesn’t include upper timing cover bolts....it’s not like they’re 6 of the most visible or anything….McMaster Carr to the rescue. 
 

 

 

Edited March 21 by ajordan282

[ajordan282]

Would anyone recommend I check Piston to Valve Clearance?  If so can I do it with solder wire like checking squish on a dirtbike?  Maybe I'm asking a bit late since the head is torqued....from reading I think I am probably ok though.  Just looking for a sanity check on this and my taught timing chain mentioned above.  Specs:

 

-Block has not been decked

-Pistons are Euro Tii Piano Tops

-Head is decked .012"

-Head Gasket is 0.3mm thicker  (.011")

-Cam is stock

 

And another question - I don't need to do any fanciness with the cam sprocket timing do I?  I do have the adjustable IE unit.  Since I'm basically at stock crank to cam height I assume there's no magic to be performed.

 

I think I am in the unsweet spot of reading to much to be blissfully ignorant, but not enough to understand all of the technical engine mumbojumbo. 

Edited March 21 by ajordan282

[Aaron R]

My cam chain was pretty tight once the tensioner was in, as I recall. I had the head decked I-forget-how-much (20 thou I think but don’t hold me to it), chucked a stock head gasket in it, never checked anything, and sent it. Runs like a top. 
 

Of course, ymmv and I am an idiot, so. Grain of salt and shit. 

Edited March 21 by Aaron R

[ajordan282]

I’ve convinced myself to move on for a handful of reasons, not just that I don’t want to pull the head and clay it lol. I’ll definitely survive, hopefully it’ll survive. 

[ajordan282]

Had a bit of a discussion with my machinist about facing the used 228mm flywheel I just picked up from @Squid's 02 (who by the way was a great seller to deal with, thanks again!)

 

Overall thickness at the friction surface is .560" and manual states no less than .532" so we are good there I believe.

 

However, we are discussing the "step" or "lip" between the friction surface and the surface the flex plate bolts to.  The current step on the used flywheel is .011".  Larry's bible, The Engine Rebuilder's Association handbooks, state the step should be .011".  Reading on here, I have found that the 2002masters state .3mm-.55mm (.012-.022").

 

The flywheel that came out of the car which is for some reason potato chipped and destined for the scrap pile measured total thickness of .565" and had NO step which is also "wrong" as far as I can tell, but somehow seemed to work fine on the short drive I took in the car.

 

Do I accept Larry's .011" step, or fight for more? Why??  

Edited March 22 by ajordan282

[ajordan282]

throwing parts on until it runs. taking me forever because I keep standing back and just staring at it like a caveman. shiny metal good. me like. hope it run and no boom. 
 

btw machinist put a .011 step on the flywheel, showed me in his fancy book where it called for that. I wanted 12-20 thou based on research here but oh well. Should be fine considering the original flywheel had no step and the action/engagement felt fine. 
 

 

Edited April 21 by ajordan282

[bergie33]

Yep, they need that step in the flywheel.