Aaron R

Mat it as in “put the accelerator pedal on the floor mat.” Floor it. Open the throttle all the way.

Thank you all. The check valve seems good, the front screen is clear. I'll get into the tank later and check that screen after making sure something isn't blocked, I'll check the WUR adjustment. Again.

Max of 29 degrees after like 3,500. Set at the factory 25 at 2,400. Checked the timing against an adjustable light, and it's consistent between the 123 and the light.

Have checked the banjo, but not the fuel pressure valve recently. Plug wires are new, will check pickup screen.

Hoping you, the 2002 wisdom sphere, can help me out a little. I just got my '74 back on the road (again), and it starts and idles pretty well, but has an annoying issue. When it's dead-dead cold, it accelerates smoothly and all seems well. But once it gets any heat into the engine whatsoever, it will miss and stutter, especially under part throttle. If I blip it from idle to 2,000 rpm or so at a stoplight, it'll backfire a bit. The pump linkages are all adjusted correctly according to the book, it has a 123 ignition Bluetooth distributor in it, a new Bosch AL41X alternator that is charging, the grounds have all been renewed. It started doing this before the new alternator came along, though it has gotten worse. I put clean NGK BRP6ES plugs in it, which made no difference. I also swapped coils, which did nothing. The other day the warmup regulator locknut and top hat were gone when I got back from a drive, so I guess the vibrated off. I have a washer and nuts on there now, and the WUR extends to full distance and moves the lever. The miss was there before this happened, though, so I'm not sure it's that. The fuel filter has less than one tank of gas through it. The oil looks decent. The electric pump is a Bosch from an E28. But since the car runs fine when cold and clears up if you mat it, I don't think it's fuel delivery. Lastly, I had the head and the upper timing cover skimmed last summer, reseated the valves, and put it new valve seals. So to recap -- My tii has a consistent, significant miss/stutter/stumble after warmup at part to medium throttle, especially between 2,200 and 3,500 rpm. It runs and revs perfectly smoothly before the temp gauge moves. It has a bunch of new parts. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I just took a 74tii from 20-odd years in a barn to back on the road. I deliberately didn't calculate the specific total I have spent, but it's gonna be somewhere between $8,000 and $10,000, and that does not include my time. That does not include any body work, but I was lucky enough to get a car that is pretty solid. It has cosmetic rust, but nothing I can't control, and nothing structural. From what you have shown us here, I'd say you're looking at like $8k-$10k as it sits, assuming the engine turns and the rust isn't terrible. It kinda depends what you want out of the car when you're "done." I'd rather have a driver that might have some minor to moderate issues, so I would: Have a look at the floors/frame rails/subframe mounting points/bits of the shock towers not visible in those photos, and assess from there. If there's just cosmetic/easily handled rust and the engine is free and the kfish pump is turning, I'd say it's a win. Get it, make it run and drive, and enjoy the hell out of it. If you want an All Original Neue Klasse BMW 2002tii With Very Correct Numbers Matching Parts And OEM BMW Air In the Tires, that car is a long and expensive journey from that.

My cam chain was pretty tight once the tensioner was in, as I recall. I had the head decked I-forget-how-much (20 thou I think but don’t hold me to it), chucked a stock head gasket in it, never checked anything, and sent it. Runs like a top. Of course, ymmv and I am an idiot, so. Grain of salt and shit.

This is rad. I am down the valley from you in Staunton and remember when that car sold. Mine is a Malaga-ish '74 tii. I very, very nearly did a full rebuild last summer but decided to slam it back together and run it for now. Got a set of injectors from Marty, as well as gaskets and borrowed some tools. Left the pump alone once I freed it up. Marty rules. Excited to see how the rest of the build goes. Might have to pick your brain about the machinist when the time comes ...

So I got some inexpensive outer control arm bushings from Autohaus AZ, and they're just a tad too big. I had been warned that this sometimes happens with cheaper rubber. The inners are UROs, and went in just fine. I ordered a set of the OEM outer bushings, so with any luck I'll be in business when they show up in a week or so. Not sure why I mention it except to mention it. Anyone else had this happen? Again, I was warned it might, so I wasn't surprised. Annoyed, sure. But not surprised.

If you don't mind sharing, what did that cost? I have a similar set of Scheels and I'm thinking about doing a similar thing. Thanks!

I finally drove my '74 tii again yesterday. I took it apart in about May to reseal the engine. Then I got hurt in a motorcycle wreck and couldn't work on it for a good chunk of the summer. When I finally got it buttoned back up in September, it has bodacious rear main and front crank seal leaks. So I had to replace them again. The rear main took me three tries, but it finally looks like I got it dry. Then, I got the car running and idling nicely for about 20 minutes and it suddenly died. Long story short, I chased many ideas about why it refused to restart, up to and including swapping distributors from the 123Ignition I installed in the spring back to the stock tii one. When that didn't work, I remembered that the gas gauge is broken. The car had no fuel in it whatsoever, which would explain why it stopped running so suddenly and refused to fire. So I put gas in it, put the 123 back in, and drove my car around. It is glorious. It needs some tuning, but mostly it is glorious. The detailed saga is on my Instagram @tii_tiime

Victor Reinz seals. Surfaces were lubed, seals square, etc.

The hose routes into the airbox already as stock.

The vent should be clear but I'll check it again. There's definitely some wear in the cylinders to include minor pitting, but I didn't think it'd push crankcase pressures high enough to push out that much oil.

Let me preface my question: I have searched the forum. Got some good info but I am looking for updated info. I just got the engine in my '74 tii reinstalled and running after I pulled it for a re-seal and a new head gasket. The good news is that it runs much better now than it did before. The bad news is that the front and rear crank seals appear to be leaking much worse than they were before. Oil runs out of from under the bottom of the kfish belt cover, and drips out of the joint between engine and transmission. I haven't had a chance to get the transmission back out for a proper look, but I wanted to put the issue here first things first. I didn't sleeve the front of the crank shaft, so I am planning to do that regardless since everything needs to come back apart to investigate anyway. I'll get a new rear main while I'm at it. I have seen in my searching here that there used to be spacers available for the rear main, but those all seem to be NLA now. Does anyone know a source for them? Also, if the rear main plate is cracked or warped, can I get one that fits a later M10, or is that part specific to 2002s? Any and all help would be appreciated! Aaron

Thanks!

Hey all - Does anyone know the dimensions of/a source for the long stud that holds on the water divider? I need new intake studs but nobody seems to sell the water divider stud. Even W-N was a bust, which is unusual.