M10 + E12 Carnage & Rebuild

[Aaron R]

Try it with the CS injector hooked up and firing. It runs for between 10 and 30 seconds depending on temp, so it might make your hard starting easier. 

[ajordan282]

yea cs injector will definitely help with starting, I’ve somewhat brought mine back from the dead but am leaving it out of the system now as the car starts easily enough. Real problem is the car is undrivable as is, you gotta have your foot way in it just to keep it running! Basically dies if it gets below 2k rpm and that’s the same cold or warm. 

[Aaron R]

Super frustrating. I'm sorry, man. Getting the distributor into spec sounds like a good place to go next, since it's warm or cold. Mine had the points replaced with Pertronix a long while ago, and I replaced that with a 123 Ignition unit, so I have no frame of reference for points, unfortunately.

 

Sometimes a big air leak from the plastic intake runners can cause dumb things to happen, but from what I have heard they tend to clear up when warm and things expand.

 

I'm pulling for you. If anything occurs to me that is actually helpful, I'll weigh in.

 

FWIW I just chased a terrible hesitation that turned out to be loose fuel pump wiring. So I would double check the electric pump connections and make sure it's happy. I know there's fuel pressure, but I dismissed fuel pump because it ran, and it turned out that was my problem.

[ajordan282]

3 hours ago, Aaron R said:

Super frustrating. I'm sorry, man. Getting the distributor into spec sounds like a good place to go next, since it's warm or cold. Mine had the points replaced with Pertronix a long while ago, and I replaced that with a 123 Ignition unit, so I have no frame of reference for points, unfortunately.

 

Sometimes a big air leak from the plastic intake runners can cause dumb things to happen, but from what I have heard they tend to clear up when warm and things expand.

 

I'm pulling for you. If anything occurs to me that is actually helpful, I'll weigh in.

 

FWIW I just chased a terrible hesitation that turned out to be loose fuel pump wiring. So I would double check the electric pump connections and make sure it's happy. I know there's fuel pressure, but I dismissed fuel pump because it ran, and it turned out that was my problem.

I’ll get it eventually!!! I appreciate the feedback. FP is on the way, looking for an alt still. 
 

I am just worried something is not correct with the kfish. I don’t want to have to pull it off and send out again

[ajordan282]

another note to add - with key in the run position (but engine off) I am only seeing 10V across the coil terminals.  Battery reads 12.5V.  This seems wrong.  Plan to run 12v direct from battery to coil to see if that makes a difference.

 

[tzei]

Check for air leaks. Check what voltage your fuel pump see too.

[jimk]

52 minutes ago, ajordan282 said:

another note to add - with key in the run position (but engine off) I am only seeing 10V across the coil terminals.  Battery reads 12.5V.  This seems wrong.  Plan to run 12v direct from battery to coil to see if that makes a difference.

 

It may be way back in this thread, but if ignition points are still inuse, with the key in the on position and points closed, power to the coil passes thru the resistance wire (or ceramic resistor).  The coil + won't read battery voltage but the running voltage.

Edited May 8 by jimk

[ajordan282]

3 hours ago, jimk said:

It may be way back in this thread, but if ignition points are still inuse, with the key in the on position and points closed, power to the coil passes thru the resistance wire (or ceramic resistor).  The coil + won't read battery voltage but the running voltage.

yes the car is still standard ignition setup with an 002 distributor.  has the rectangular white fenderwell mounted resistor. dern. was hoping i was on to something.

 

can anyone speak to a n improperly tuned kfish causing such issues?

Edited May 8 by ajordan282

[ajordan282]

Here’s a video I took last night. I unbolted the exhaust at the back of the downpipe thinking maybe something had gotten in it over winter and plugged it up. No change though. Car is not warmed up in this video but it acts just the same when warmed up. 

Edited May 9 by ajordan282

[Aaron R]

That sounds a lot like how mine sounded but worse. Mine wasn't getting enough fuel. I don't feel qualified to say if there's anything with the K pump, though. I just freed up the stuck plungers on mine and it has been behaving properly. My issue was the electric pump, but I would probably be chasing fuel supply.

 

Are the lines from the tank to the engine new? Did you attempt to clean them if not?

[ajordan282]

52 minutes ago, Aaron R said:

That sounds a lot like how mine sounded but worse. Mine wasn't getting enough fuel. I don't feel qualified to say if there's anything with the K pump, though. I just freed up the stuck plungers on mine and it has been behaving properly. My issue was the electric pump, but I would probably be chasing fuel supply.

 

Are the lines from the tank to the engine new? Did you attempt to clean them if not?

I haven’t touched the lines between the tank and the hard line. Tank appears very clean. Hardline has been cleaned and all rubber under the hood is new. Car has a new fuel filter under the hood. I ran a gallon of fuel thru with the old filter and the line unhooked at the kfish before replacing rubber lines and filter. 
 

today I replaced the points condenser and alternator. It runs better, I can let it dip into the 1000’s but if I let off the pedal she gone. 
 

still can’t get dwell to 60*….??? Maybe my meter is bad. New points are gapped to .016. Still reads 42*. 

hooked up my AFR and it hovers around 16 with partial throttle holding at 2k rpm. 

 

fuel pump won’t be here until Sunday. Call your mothers. 
 

 

Edited May 9 by ajordan282

[Aaron R]

Were you able to get the pump in? Curious if that did anything.

[ajordan282]

56 minutes ago, Aaron R said:

Were you able to get the pump in? Curious if that did anything.

No it hasn’t arrived yet, wouldn’t recommend ordering form RM European this is the third time I have and the parts never show up on time lol. Also sometimes they don’t send order confirmation or shipping info. I am pretty convinced it’s not the pump though, I tested the flow rate and the dead head pump pressure and both were good, so maybe it’s a bit of a problem but I think there’s something else going on. I removed the injection pump and injectors last night and am having it rechecked. 

[Aaron R]

What a PITA. Hope you get it figured out soon! 

['76mintgrün'02]

On 5/9/2024 at 4:41 PM, ajordan282 said:

still can’t get dwell to 60*….??? Maybe my meter is bad. New points are gapped to .016. Still reads 42*. 

 

Your meter must be bad.  The Innova 5568 timing light has a built in dwell meter (as well as a tach and volt meter) and a variable advance setting to let you read the amount of advance the distributor is giving throughout the rpm range.  It is a very useful tool.

 

Tom