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door to window seal gap


autokunst

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The rubber seals on my doors were cracked and some sections missing.  Realizing that rain would just wash down the glass and into the doors, I endeavored to replace the "squeegee" seal.  I ended up getting all new door trim pieces with the outer seal in place.  It was a quick install, but the new rubber squeegee is is about 2mm from the glass.  That is as useless as the original cracked seals (maybe worse!).  Did I install this incorrectly (is there a trick)?  Or do the new seals just not work well?  Any advice appreciated!

 

Here is the part I replaced.

20230718-doortrim1.thumb.jpg.4aeadcbb81e19d37aadd7511a3e18a3e.jpg

 

Here is the wide open gap with the new part.

20230718-doortrim2.thumb.jpg.d9d195b5bfeec250dd47dc27e91b86ea.jpg

20230718-doortrim3.thumb.jpg.53e6bd219dab98e7e9df032147fa4d34.jpg

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Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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Perhaps loosen the internal lower door window and vent window rails at the base of the door and try to rock the entire door glass and vent window assembly slightly outward. Tighten base fasteners when satisfied with fitment. 

Edited by Mikesmalaga72
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Agree that canting the lower glass can move the upper glass out towards the outer trim seal, but why’s the gap between inside and outside seals that wide? At that width, then the inner side won’t fit/seal.

 

My inner and outer trim seals both touch the glass. So that gap’s too big somehow…

 

Tom

Where we goin’? … I’ll drive…
There are some who call me... Tom too         v i s i o n a u t i k s.com   

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41 minutes ago, visionaut said:

Agree that canting the lower glass can move the upper glass out towards the outer trim seal, but why’s the gap between inside and outside seals that wide? At that width, then the inner side won’t fit/seal.

 

My inner and outer trim seals both touch the glass. So that gap’s too big somehow…

 

Tom

Ah yes, that was a thought I had as well.  I don't know much about the history of this car, but I do know the doors were missing the vapor barrier when it came to us (therefore, fussed with).

 

If in fact the tops of the door halves are "spread apart", I wonder if I can cinch them back together.

 

Regarding adjusting the glass tracks. My concern is that it won't seal at the top anymore.  Plus, it does touch the inner felt strip so the alignment appears reasonably correct.  Anyone else ever experienced this?

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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15 minutes ago, syncrosurf said:

Can't help with the fit, but where did the seals come from?  I need a set.  FWIW my car measures between 5 - 7mm from the glass to the edge of the chrome.

Thank you for the dimension.  It gives me a data point to work towards.

I purchased these from Maximillian Importing Company several months ago.

Stephen Bruns

1968 1600-2  "Stuart"

1973 3.0CS  "Raven"  https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/the-raven-e9-project.26879/

1967 VW Beetle  "Templeton"

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I could be way off the mark here due to a foggy memory so ignore this if it doesn't make sense. when I reinstalled my old trims (because I haven't bought new ones) some 4-6 years ago, I noticed the spring clip that sits inside this outer window trim was offset, and it wasn't that hard to get the trim sitting 5ish mm off its correct position as the seam was on the wrong side of the grove in this spring clip. Similar to the interior door/ backseat side cards along the top edge IIRC. Maybe double check orientation of these. 

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73' 2002tii roundie cr 5spd 2751420

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