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Pramono

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  1. Do you still have the heater box assembly with brackets and wiring harness? Please PM me for more information. Thanks.
  2. Rich, if you still want to sell them, send me your pay pal.
  3. If you have the metal clamps that hold the cables down (2x for the heat & defrost, 1x for the heater valve/fresh air flap), then I'll consider it at that price. Thanks, - H
  4. Shipping would be to 94102; would you take an offer of $40, plus paypal fee and shipping? Thanks, - H
  5. I'm interested. Will you be at Bay Area '02? We can arrange for an exchange there. Thanks.
  6. How to Reuse Heater Motor Metal Fan Blades The replacement heater blower motor is no longer available as a complete assembly; only the blower motor itself. Many of us would like to keep the original metal or aluminum fan blade, but it’s almost impossible to remove the fan blade from the old/seized motor without destroying the pressed in the plastic bushing that the fan sits between. By this decade, any of these bushings have also become brittle and separated. If you have a very early metal blade that came with the set screw, then you may be able to transfer and reuse the blade if the set screw is not rusted out. PRDesignSF has been proud to offer you the plastic fan blade that adapts to the new motor. Since there is a lot less weight for the motor to turn, it puts less stress on the motor, allowing it to last longer while providing almost the same airflow. For those who would like to save and reuse the metal/aluminum blades, we have created an adapter screw from stainless steel that will work. Now you will be able to reuse the metal blade and make it look more original. Here's a quick guide to removing the blade safely without destroying it. The one thing that you do not want to do is attempt to yank the blade off the shaft; you will damage the blade. The metal shaft needs to be cut off and press out. You could reuse the plastic bushing if they are still in good condition, or if you do not want to take a chance for the bushing to become separated in the future, you can use the new adapter screw that we made. With the motor out, separate the plastic body housing by prying the tabs and they will split up. Remove the press-in clip at the end of the shaft and cut the upper support arm bearing housing. This is to create some space for you to be able to cut the shaft. Now you can pull the internal parts out, including the stator, from the housing. There is a square clip at the back of the bearing support arms; pry it with a screwdriver and the support arm will become loose, but still attached to the shaft. It’s seated in a spherical race. You should be able to move it around to create enough space to cut the shaft now. With the shaft cut off, turn the fan upside down and support it with a 14mm deep socket. Now, you can use a punch to drift the shaft out. The bushing will be separated and the fan will be free. The plastic bushing consists of two separate parts, the top half features a built-in key to lock the blade, and the bottom half to keep the upper bushing from coming off the blade by pressing into it. You can clean up the blade, but be very gentle with an aluminum blade: It’s very easy to deform the blade. The adapter screw is very easy to install. Twist the adapter through the fan center hole and tighten it with the nylock nut. Use an 8mm Allen and 14mm socket to tighten the adapter screw. Tightened to 16-18 Ft-Lb. Mark approximately 5 mm from the upper fan body to the shaft; too far out and the fan will interfere with the fresh air flap. You can also tell if you’ve put the fan at the right depth if you have the chamfered edge slightly sticking out from the adapter. Tighten the set screw using a 2mm Allen into the shaft. Because the set screw is cupped, it will bite into the shaft and secure it. Be sure to use thread locker (medium strength) on the set screw to prevent it from backing out. You could also apply a dab of paint on the top of the set screw to provide additional protection from backing out. Optionally (Recommended), you can also cut a divot into the shaft to provide a flat area for the set screw to sit in; it’s still a good idea to apply thread locker onto the set screw. To test proper blade orientation, power up the motor (Male -, Female +). When the blades are facing you, they should be turning counter-clockwise. If you feel a lot of vibration (Light vibration is acceptable), then most likely the blades were not straight. Looking from the side of the motor, check if all the blade’s center ridges are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the shaft motor, otherwise, they are out of balance. With this, now you have the option of reusing your metal/aluminum blade or plastic blade. Either metal (Used) or plastic fan blades can be purchased from our store as well. Contact us at www.PRDesignsf.com or email [email protected] Happy ’02 motoring! View full article
  7. How to Reuse Heater Motor Metal Fan Blades The replacement heater blower motor is no longer available as a complete assembly; only the blower motor itself. Many of us would like to keep the original metal or aluminum fan blade, but it’s almost impossible to remove the fan blade from the old/seized motor without destroying the pressed in the plastic bushing that the fan sits between. By this decade, any of these bushings have also become brittle and separated. If you have a very early metal blade that came with the set screw, then you may be able to transfer and reuse the blade if the set screw is not rusted out. PRDesignSF has been proud to offer you the plastic fan blade that adapts to the new motor. Since there is a lot less weight for the motor to turn, it puts less stress on the motor, allowing it to last longer while providing almost the same airflow. For those who would like to save and reuse the metal/aluminum blades, we have created an adapter screw from stainless steel that will work. Now you will be able to reuse the metal blade and make it look more original. Here's a quick guide to removing the blade safely without destroying it. The one thing that you do not want to do is attempt to yank the blade off the shaft; you will damage the blade. The metal shaft needs to be cut off and press out. You could reuse the plastic bushing if they are still in good condition, or if you do not want to take a chance for the bushing to become separated in the future, you can use the new adapter screw that we made. With the motor out, separate the plastic body housing by prying the tabs and they will split up. Remove the press-in clip at the end of the shaft and cut the upper support arm bearing housing. This is to create some space for you to be able to cut the shaft. Now you can pull the internal parts out, including the stator, from the housing. There is a square clip at the back of the bearing support arms; pry it with a screwdriver and the support arm will become loose, but still attached to the shaft. It’s seated in a spherical race. You should be able to move it around to create enough space to cut the shaft now. With the shaft cut off, turn the fan upside down and support it with a 14mm deep socket. Now, you can use a punch to drift the shaft out. The bushing will be separated and the fan will be free. The plastic bushing consists of two separate parts, the top half features a built-in key to lock the blade, and the bottom half to keep the upper bushing from coming off the blade by pressing into it. You can clean up the blade, but be very gentle with an aluminum blade: It’s very easy to deform the blade. The adapter screw is very easy to install. Twist the adapter through the fan center hole and tighten it with the nylock nut. Use an 8mm Allen and 14mm socket to tighten the adapter screw. Tightened to 16-18 Ft-Lb. Mark approximately 5 mm from the upper fan body to the shaft; too far out and the fan will interfere with the fresh air flap. You can also tell if you’ve put the fan at the right depth if you have the chamfered edge slightly sticking out from the adapter. Tighten the set screw using a 2mm Allen into the shaft. Because the set screw is cupped, it will bite into the shaft and secure it. Be sure to use thread locker (medium strength) on the set screw to prevent it from backing out. You could also apply a dab of paint on the top of the set screw to provide additional protection from backing out. Optionally (Recommended), you can also cut a divot into the shaft to provide a flat area for the set screw to sit in; it’s still a good idea to apply thread locker onto the set screw. To test proper blade orientation, power up the motor (Male -, Female +). When the blades are facing you, they should be turning counter-clockwise. If you feel a lot of vibration (Light vibration is acceptable), then most likely the blades were not straight. Looking from the side of the motor, check if all the blade’s center ridges are 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the shaft motor, otherwise, they are out of balance. With this, now you have the option of reusing your metal/aluminum blade or plastic blade. Either metal (Used) or plastic fan blades can be purchased from our store as well. Contact us at www.PRDesignsf.com or email [email protected] Happy ’02 motoring!
  8. That is wonderfull, im glad that you able to reproduce the cables. How about the double bowden cable, if the dia to big, it may not be able to go through the valve lever pinch bolt.
  9. I don't use nylon lock. With 15/64 shaft core, its gonna be pretty tight fit. You can add a drop of glue to secure it, but even without the glue, I don't think it's going anywhere. It hardly have any weight to go against any centrifugal force.
  10. I have checked the physical property of the fan blades, It's made of Polycarbonate. It can withstand up to 124 Deg Celcius (Deflection temp under load), Heat resistance up to 136 Deg Cel, and a melting point of 280-320 Deg Cel. I don't have the breakage freezing temperatures info. Weight is 1 oz. Hope it answer some questions.
  11. A few months ago, I wrote an article about repairing the heater valve bracket. You can see that article by clicking the link here. I really thank all of you for reading and all the responses received from the 2002 community. I had a tremendous request on the parts that I designed. Therefore, I decided to make some improvements to the bracket as well as additional parts that make rebuilding the heater box easier. I have gathered and made some special components/parts for those who want to rebuild the box themselves, starting with a new design heater valve bracket. I was fortunate enough to find a heater box top with an intact bracket. I was able to follow the shape of the original bracket, and because of that, the new design will be almost identical to the original bracket. The kit will also available with the other following items: • Heater valve lever with pinch bolt • Rubber grommets and delrin bushings (custom made) • Pre-cut foam kit for the flaps, heater core and perimeter box seals • Heater motor with a new fan blade Those who are interested in the parts can contact me at [email protected] This is the picture for the foam & grommet kit. On the left are foam strips for the perimeter box seal (furthest left), and then the heater core seal. In the upper middle area is the foam for the defroster and heater air flaps. Underneath that are two big rings for the heater core outlet. Below that are the flap grommets (the 7 small circular ones). Beneath that is the four relay shaft delrin bushings for the defroster and heater flaps. Beneath that is four spring clips that also go onto the flap shafts. To the right of that is the foam for the fresh air flap. To the furthest right is the foam for the outer box. Version 2 of my heater bracket reinforcement! I’ve updated it so that it looks very similar to the original bracket that was created from the factory. This time, the bracket is made in aluminum, making it lighter than the previous version. If your heater fan motor is seized or making noise, you don’t need to worry. I will show you how to get a replacement parts or you can get it from me. The heater fan motor is still available from Bosch, part # 0 130 007 002. The fan motor comes with a 6 mm shaft, or just slightly under ¼ “. If you buy a ready made fan blade with a ¼“ bore, it will be loose. The only option is to buy a plastic fan blade from Grainger, part # 5JLL6. It should be 5-9/16” Dia, CCW, with a 3/16” bore. This is the closest fan blade to the original aluminum fan blade, except that it is made of plastic and is lighter. Enlarge the bore with a 15/64” drill bit, but make sure that you drill it straight and on center, otherwise it will end up having a wobble (slight wobble is acceptable). I made a special jig to perform this job, since I do quite a bit of these repairs. Once the fan blade is done, press fit it onto the shaft with the clip facing away from the motor, and if you want, you can drop a little glue to make it more secure. You don’t need to balance it, since the blade is so light. It should provide you with plenty of CFM - I think it blows slightly stronger than the original motor. See the pictures below. These images show how I align the fan so that I can drill the fan perfectly centered. The grommets for the heater core outlets are very difficult to acquire. Even though the part is still being made by BMW, they are not available unless someone has old stock (NOS). Most of these grommets are dry, brittle, and torn after 30+ years. You can use sealer or putty to keep it together and seal the box from leaking out air, but it won’t look pretty. I found a replacement heater core outlet grommets (¾”x1/4”x1-⅝”) that were very similar/ acceptable to the original ones, and with slight modification, it would look like almost an oem part (see pictures). The rest of the parts are straightforward, except for the fan blade which was a little bit tricky to do. If you look at the pictures below. I put together a kit for what is necessary to rebuilt the heater box. This is the same kit I use to rebuild heater boxes. These are the grommets for the heater core outlets. The white area is where it is going to be trimmed - Without trimming this, the grommet won’t fit. It would need to be cut ⅜“ from the inside diameter. What you should get is this You should fit it onto the box with the flat side facing to the outside of the box, as shown. But from here, there is still some further modifications that need to be done. Unless you cut out a groove for the pipes, you will have a hard time putting the top cover onto the assembly. This is why I modified the grommets, grind the inside diameter following the outlet heater core pipes by using a die grinder or round file. It should be approximately ground at 30º - 45º. Both the top and bottom of the grommet will need to be cut, but on the opposite sides! This will help the top cover fit easier. After you grind out the groove, it should look like this: On the left side is the outer side of the box; the right image shows what it looks like on the inside. Note that both cuts are opposite from each other! This should make it a lot easier to install the top. Trust me on this. I hope this articles will help whoever wants to do their own Heater Box rebuild. If you need help, just email me on the address above. Keep yourself warm during winter season. Happy Motoring! View full article
  12. A few months ago, I wrote an article about repairing the heater valve bracket. You can see that article by clicking the link here. I really thank all of you for reading and all the responses received from the 2002 community. I had a tremendous request on the parts that I designed. Therefore, I decided to make some improvements to the bracket as well as additional parts that make rebuilding the heater box easier. I have gathered and made some special components/parts for those who want to rebuild the box themselves, starting with a new design heater valve bracket. I was fortunate enough to find a heater box top with an intact bracket. I was able to follow the shape of the original bracket, and because of that, the new design will be almost identical to the original bracket. The kit will also available with the other following items: • Heater valve lever with pinch bolt • Rubber grommets and delrin bushings (custom made) • Pre-cut foam kit for the flaps, heater core and perimeter box seals • Heater motor with a new fan blade Those who are interested in the parts can contact me at [email protected] This is the picture for the foam & grommet kit. On the left are foam strips for the perimeter box seal (furthest left), and then the heater core seal. In the upper middle area is the foam for the defroster and heater air flaps. Underneath that are two big rings for the heater core outlet. Below that are the flap grommets (the 7 small circular ones). Beneath that is the four relay shaft delrin bushings for the defroster and heater flaps. Beneath that is four spring clips that also go onto the flap shafts. To the right of that is the foam for the fresh air flap. To the furthest right is the foam for the outer box. Version 2 of my heater bracket reinforcement! I’ve updated it so that it looks very similar to the original bracket that was created from the factory. This time, the bracket is made in aluminum, making it lighter than the previous version. If your heater fan motor is seized or making noise, you don’t need to worry. I will show you how to get a replacement parts or you can get it from me. The heater fan motor is still available from Bosch, part # 0 130 007 002. The fan motor comes with a 6 mm shaft, or just slightly under ¼ “. If you buy a ready made fan blade with a ¼“ bore, it will be loose. The only option is to buy a plastic fan blade from Grainger, part # 5JLL6. It should be 5-9/16” Dia, CCW, with a 3/16” bore. This is the closest fan blade to the original aluminum fan blade, except that it is made of plastic and is lighter. Enlarge the bore with a 15/64” drill bit, but make sure that you drill it straight and on center, otherwise it will end up having a wobble (slight wobble is acceptable). I made a special jig to perform this job, since I do quite a bit of these repairs. Once the fan blade is done, press fit it onto the shaft with the clip facing away from the motor, and if you want, you can drop a little glue to make it more secure. You don’t need to balance it, since the blade is so light. It should provide you with plenty of CFM - I think it blows slightly stronger than the original motor. See the pictures below. These images show how I align the fan so that I can drill the fan perfectly centered. The grommets for the heater core outlets are very difficult to acquire. Even though the part is still being made by BMW, they are not available unless someone has old stock (NOS). Most of these grommets are dry, brittle, and torn after 30+ years. You can use sealer or putty to keep it together and seal the box from leaking out air, but it won’t look pretty. I found a replacement heater core outlet grommets (¾”x1/4”x1-⅝”) that were very similar/ acceptable to the original ones, and with slight modification, it would look like almost an oem part (see pictures). The rest of the parts are straightforward, except for the fan blade which was a little bit tricky to do. If you look at the pictures below. I put together a kit for what is necessary to rebuilt the heater box. This is the same kit I use to rebuild heater boxes. These are the grommets for the heater core outlets. The white area is where it is going to be trimmed - Without trimming this, the grommet won’t fit. It would need to be cut ⅜“ from the inside diameter. What you should get is this You should fit it onto the box with the flat side facing to the outside of the box, as shown. But from here, there is still some further modifications that need to be done. Unless you cut out a groove for the pipes, you will have a hard time putting the top cover onto the assembly. This is why I modified the grommets, grind the inside diameter following the outlet heater core pipes by using a die grinder or round file. It should be approximately ground at 30º - 45º. Both the top and bottom of the grommet will need to be cut, but on the opposite sides! This will help the top cover fit easier. After you grind out the groove, it should look like this: On the left side is the outer side of the box; the right image shows what it looks like on the inside. Note that both cuts are opposite from each other! This should make it a lot easier to install the top. Trust me on this. I hope this articles will help whoever wants to do their own Heater Box rebuild. If you need help, just email me on the address above. Keep yourself warm during winter season. Happy Motoring!
  13. For those of you who attempt to fix your own heater box, I’m pretty sure you know what I’m going to be writing about.. A while back, I wrote an article about how I created a heater valve reinforcement bracket (you can see it by clicking this link). Since I’m still in this area of repair, I just wanted to give some ideas on how to repair the broken ribs on the heater fan cage. This is what a fixed fan rib cage looks like. The heater fan is mounted on the top section of the heater box with four clips. It is seated in a housing that we called the fan cage housing, since it looks like a cage. The cage consists of protective plastic ribs to prevent large debris entering the fan/ heater box, however, leaves and small debris are still able to go past these ribs. The factory did not make a screen or smaller openings to block the debris, thinking that airflow would be restricted. The ribs are made out of plastic, and as we all know, they become brittle from age and break, leaving even a larger opening (See picture below). Now there’s going to be even more debris entering the box! Nobody wants leaves and dirt blowing into their cabins, so I have found a way to fix these, that will make it look like the original again. I didn't like the idea of installing a screen, since it might restrict the airflow and is tricky to install. Besides, this way, it will make it look almost original again. This is what the heater box looks like before being repaired. Imagine all the debris and leaves that have gotten through over the years! Here is an inexpensive and simple way to fix it, and hope you may have some of these common tools. These what you need: Materials required • Coat hanger • Epoxy/adhesive • Paint/ Spray Paint Tools required • Cutter • Pliers • Marker pen • Dremel Tool • Burring bit You will need to do this repair while the box is out of the car. Besides, I’m sure you wouldn’t want plastic bits flying into your box and core! Step 1. Get a coat hanger and cut the straight part (this is what you will be using for this repair). Using either your hands or pliers, bend the section to match the curvature of the missing/ broken rib. Mark and cut the rod slightly longer than the length required (You will need to trim this later to the exact length). Cut and make as many as you need to replace the broken ribs. (See picture below) Note: There are none of the shortest ribs where the fan motor mounting clips are located; they were left out on purpose to leave clearance for the clips. Step 2. Get your dremel tool and attach the bit to cut/make an indentation on the vertical cross section on both sides where the ribs were connected once. Cut just deep enough so that the coat hanger will seat flush into the cut. (See picture) Step3. Using your cutters, cut the rod to make it fit between the two cuts that you made earlier. (See picture) Step 4. Place the new rib and align it so that it will line up both from top and side, and then apply epoxy to the end piece of the new ribs (see picture…). Step 5. Sand, clean, and paint the new ribs (or the whole housing if you plan on doing a refurbish), and voila, you now have a new “unbroken” fan cage again! (See picture) This is the final product - A fan housing without anymore broken ribs on the cage! Thanks for looking, and have fun repairing your fan cage! View full article
  14. For those of you who attempt to fix your own heater box, I’m pretty sure you know what I’m going to be writing about.. A while back, I wrote an article about how I created a heater valve reinforcement bracket (you can see it by clicking this link). Since I’m still in this area of repair, I just wanted to give some ideas on how to repair the broken ribs on the heater fan cage. This is what a fixed fan rib cage looks like. The heater fan is mounted on the top section of the heater box with four clips. It is seated in a housing that we called the fan cage housing, since it looks like a cage. The cage consists of protective plastic ribs to prevent large debris entering the fan/ heater box, however, leaves and small debris are still able to go past these ribs. The factory did not make a screen or smaller openings to block the debris, thinking that airflow would be restricted. The ribs are made out of plastic, and as we all know, they become brittle from age and break, leaving even a larger opening (See picture below). Now there’s going to be even more debris entering the box! Nobody wants leaves and dirt blowing into their cabins, so I have found a way to fix these, that will make it look like the original again. I didn't like the idea of installing a screen, since it might restrict the airflow and is tricky to install. Besides, this way, it will make it look almost original again. This is what the heater box looks like before being repaired. Imagine all the debris and leaves that have gotten through over the years! Here is an inexpensive and simple way to fix it, and hope you may have some of these common tools. These what you need: Materials required • Coat hanger • Epoxy/adhesive • Paint/ Spray Paint Tools required • Cutter • Pliers • Marker pen • Dremel Tool • Burring bit You will need to do this repair while the box is out of the car. Besides, I’m sure you wouldn’t want plastic bits flying into your box and core! Step 1. Get a coat hanger and cut the straight part (this is what you will be using for this repair). Using either your hands or pliers, bend the section to match the curvature of the missing/ broken rib. Mark and cut the rod slightly longer than the length required (You will need to trim this later to the exact length). Cut and make as many as you need to replace the broken ribs. (See picture below) Note: There are none of the shortest ribs where the fan motor mounting clips are located; they were left out on purpose to leave clearance for the clips. Step 2. Get your dremel tool and attach the bit to cut/make an indentation on the vertical cross section on both sides where the ribs were connected once. Cut just deep enough so that the coat hanger will seat flush into the cut. (See picture) Step3. Using your cutters, cut the rod to make it fit between the two cuts that you made earlier. (See picture) Step 4. Place the new rib and align it so that it will line up both from top and side, and then apply epoxy to the end piece of the new ribs (see picture…). Step 5. Sand, clean, and paint the new ribs (or the whole housing if you plan on doing a refurbish), and voila, you now have a new “unbroken” fan cage again! (See picture) This is the final product - A fan housing without anymore broken ribs on the cage! Thanks for looking, and have fun repairing your fan cage!
  15. After 40 something years, many of the heater boxes are out of service or partiallly working. A lot of us just gave up because it seems too complicated to repair, but in reality, it's not so bad. Most of the problem lies within the broken heater valve bracket, although the valve still stays in place. However, the operation doesn't feel solid anymore. You can't repair the bracket, because it's part of the box. I have found a solution by making a special reinforcement bracket... The heater box of the BMW 2002 is simple, yet also a little challenging to rebuild. You really need to pay attention to how the system works before taking it apart. If the car doesn't have an A/C unit, removing the entire box from the car isn't too hard. There are a few common problems that all of us probably have with this box after 40 something years: 1., the blower fan has probably frozen or has become noisy; 2., the heater valve mount has broken and 3., the control cables are frozen, therefore unable to divert the air from defrost mode to heat mode. Your heater box may have one of the above problems or all of the problems. Many of us decided to live with it due to high cost of repair, and now replacement parts are no longer available; perhaps we took on the challenging task to rebuild one these boxes. I own a reputable shop in San Francisco. Me and my employees have been working on many of these beautiful '02s for quite some time. One of the many requests I receive is to rebuild the heater box. Rebuilding the box is not that difficult, but it’s just a little challenging due to small amount of parts available. Some parts are still available fortunately, however some are not. While the heater valve (without the lever) is still available new (but at a very high cost), replacement blower motors are also available, but it doesn't include the fan blade anymore. The heater lever and cable holder screw are also no longer available, and that means you can't get them anywhere except searching for used parts. Therefore you have to be creative. Heater Valve Mount: This is the plastic bracket area which is also part of the box. They break due to age and stress from the valve being opened and closed all the time. Because of weather exposure and rusty coolant, the valve starts to build up resistance when being opened and closed, making the plastic mount prone to breaking where the valve is mounted. And once it breaks, there’s not much else that can be done since the plastic tab is molded together with the whole enclosure. Although it may still work because the valve is supported by the two heater hoses, it doesn't feel solid anymore, and often the heater control cable kinks or bends. However, not all is at loss: I have designed an L shape bracket with spacers. The bracket is mounted and reinforced by rivets directly into the box, and the spacers are there for the heater valve to be mounted inline with the heater core. The bracket is made of steel, and will last much longer than the original plastic bracket on the box. Blower Motor: Replacement motors still available online, but you need to find a replacement fan blade. The motor shaft is 1/4" diameter, so you can buy a 5-9/16" dia plastic fan blade with a 3/16" bore diameter online, but you would need to drill (15/64") it slightly. After that, you can then press fit the fan blade into the shaft. However, the really important part of this is that you need a drill press to drill it on center. Otherwise, if it’s off center, the fan blade will wobble/ vibrate, ruining the whole rebuild process. I’m sure that all of you wouldn’t want to have that! Heater Valve Lever: This part is not available and you need to reuse the old one, but the bigger problem here is the screw that holds the cable. The screw has a hole drilled in the middle for the cable to go through, later being secured with a nut. Over time, the screw becomes rusty and is very easy to break when you try to remove the nut - Usually the nut has become frozen. This is a special screw: it's a 4mm step screw with a hole. The step is there for the screw to rotate freely when the cable push the lever back and forth. Fortunately, for all of us now, I have designed a special screw with a spacer to adapt to a custom heater valve lever that I have designed myself as well. The rest of the process of rebuilding the heater box is straightforward, as long as you pay attention to the flaps and cables operations during removal. Cleaning, painting and repairing cracked boxes is a tedious job. And even then, you would still need to replace the sponges that prevent air leaks from happening. You need to replace the sponge with a good material so that it doesn't degrade quickly. Neoprene sponge/foam is a good material for insulating all the flaps. You can see the pictures below from the beginning of the process to the final rebuild, including the reinforcement bracket and heater valve lever. If anybody is interested in getting these brackets and levers, you can email me at [email protected] Thanks for looking! Note: More photos can be seen in the Google document at this link: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1iMB3TRTFj-hLOTmeSdKWDUFvIdDqwqSx3cPiBtHYHw8/edit?usp=sharing View full article


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