Frustration growing - help with vacuum leaks

[Pablo M]

9 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

In the distributor pull off the rotor and add 3 or 4 drops of light machine oil (think 3 in 1 oil) on the felt pad in the center of the shaft, replace the rotor and twist it back and forth several times, this allows the advance to move smoothly on the drive shaft.

I'll try that too. I have some 3-in-1 oil as well. Thanks.

['76mintgrün'02]

5 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

In the distributor pull off the rotor and add 3 or 4 drops of light machine oil (think 3 in 1 oil) on the felt pad in the center of the shaft, replace the rotor and twist it back and forth several times, this allows the advance to move smothly on the drive shaft.

 

Yes, but take the felt out and put the oil under it. 

 

The 002 distributor may have a little phillips head screw under the felt, which makes removing the center post a little more convenient than the typical spring clip.  (once the points plate has been removed)

 

The 002 uses the larger springs on the weights, which do a better job of returning the advance to zero than the tiny ones in the early style; although the early ones work fine, as long as things are *fresh*.

 

EDIT-- while you're in there, put some grease on the cam and check the dwell, for good measure.

Edited March 14, 2023 by '76mintgrün'02

[larry_in_socal]

Perhaps it is a fuel injector situation?  I know that you probably do not want to go down that rabbit hole, but maybe the drive loosened up debris and now you have a clogged injector?  I had an Audi 5000 once that had been sitting for a while, and I couldn't get the damn car to idle smooth, I used a bottle of super concentrate injector cleaner and it smoothed it right up. Being that the Audi 5000 and BMW TII are both designed with mechanical injector system, perhaps injector cleaner is not a bad idea?

 

 I don't know enough of the TII system and if it even responds well to injector cleaner....perhaps someone could add to this

[tech71]

On 3/11/2023 at 6:33 PM, Pablo M said:

 

I took it  for a long drive to shake it out some more

Sounds like you shook out a few new bugs

[tech71]

3 hours ago, larry_in_socal said:

 I don't know enough of the TII system and if it even responds well to injector cleaner....perhaps someone could add to this

Couldn’t hurt, the car did sit for ten years, change the fuel filter as well

Check compression

Edited March 14, 2023 by tech71

[Pablo M]

39 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Sounds like you shook out a few new bugs

That was the purpose but feels like I’m back chasing the same gremlins. That’s the part I’m having trouble with. Plus the diff problem I did discover (or half shaft, wheel bearing, tbd). 
 

 

36 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Couldn’t hurt, the car did sit for ten years, change the fuel filter as well

Check compression

I replaced the fuel filter (next to radiator) when I replaced all the fuel lines. Unaware if there’s another in need to change. The one in the car was a sketchy auto parts store generic one. I replaced with proper one. 

[dlacey]

18 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Unaware if there’s another in need to change.

Theres a 'rock screen' on the pickup in the fuel tank, if the fuel pump is the E12 style Bosch  then this may have another 'rock screen'... then the one by the radiator you changed already (beware orientation, theres normally an arrow to show flow direction) and then there's a tiny metal gauze filter in the inlet banjo bolt of the Kugel pump..

Anyway, i dont think inlet fuel flow/pressure would be causing your idling misfire... normally that only causes problems at higher power demands...

Edited March 14, 2023 by dlacey

[bmw_e30]

with a car that has sat for 10 years you need to replace thieving rubber or that moves and is electric and create a baseline