How to use 6025-1 Cam Removal Tool?

[Cabbage Fumes]

I can take a few pictures on Friday. I have no info on the tabs except that they look like they are a stop to prevent the frame from bottoming out on the head, something like that. I keep mine rotated out of the way. As far as training, I suppose it was at dealerships since I don’t think civilians were meant to have these. 

[man_mark_7]

On 8/4/2021 at 5:48 PM, Furry Camel said:

I can take a few pictures on Friday. I have no info on the tabs except that they look like they are a stop to prevent the frame from bottoming out on the head, something like that. I keep mine rotated out of the way. As far as training, I suppose it was at dealerships since I don’t think civilians were meant to have these. 

Thank you! Pics would be extremely helpful.

 

Here is what the lucky keeper-of-the-treasure was able to dig up when we discovered some pieces were missing. Maybe the bottom one is the "Base", and maybe the top one is the "Block"?

 

thanks again so much for your help

mark

 

[Cabbage Fumes]

Those are two different versions of the tool. The bottom base is missing its upper pieces, the smaller part above the larger base pictured is the lower part (base) that mates with frame in question. It is upside down in the picture. The studs go in those two holes and go through the frame you have. I’ll send pictures later today. 

[Cabbage Fumes]

Ok so this is the complete tool. Base, pressing frame, press block, fixing hardware. In the last picture, note the clearance cuts on the studs so the rocker shafts can pass through. 

[man_mark_7]

On 8/6/2021 at 1:55 PM, Furry Camel said:

Ok so this is the complete tool. Base, pressing frame, press block, fixing hardware. In the last picture, note the clearance cuts on the studs so the rocker shafts can pass through. 

 

 

 

What an ENORMOUS help! Thank you so much. Thank you also for your prior comment about large threaded bolt on the top cross piece being offset and this goes towards the exhaust side of the head so that these valves open more and don't clash with intakes!

 

mm

[Son of Marty]

You can make just the top frame work, many here have. You'll need two pieces of all thread with nuts and two normal washers six large fender washers and four head bolts, set the head on it's side, the all thread goes in the middle head bolt holes with two of the fender washers to protect the head then the four head bolts with the four remaining fender washers from the bottom up to raise the head off the bench, I wrap a bit of blue tape around the threads of the head bolts to keep then from sliding out along with the washers and nut on the all thread, now turn the head so the valves are up and remove the all thread nuts and install the frame then when you tighten the nuts be sure to start with a bias to the exhaust side. 

 

I should add that the fender washers I use have a layer of duct tape on the head side to prevent marring the head.

Edited August 11, 2021 by Son of Marty

[man_mark_7]

The Cam has left the building ?

 

After pulling the cam I noticed the front valves possibly just kissed each other since the fixture snugged down more on the front of the head vs. the back. I think that's probably what the little swingy-down things I wasn't really paying enough attention to are for.  Second photo is rear of head showing a gap with fixture and 3rd pic shows the front of the picture possibly slightly over-tightened. If the swingy thing was down I assume it would have started exerting more force on the rear of the fixture until it too contacted the head. There was more than enough room for the rockers to clear the cam lobes coming out. I had to crank down the fixture until the center cam journal could clear the rockers.

 

Now it's on to the next challenge. Getting the rocker shafts out. I was an idiot and accidently drove the plug on the front of the exhaust shaft deep into the shaft. I'm guessing that's a non-recoverable error that means I'll be finding some new rocker shafts. 

 

Does anyone know of a good source for rod material that is the same diameter as the rocker shafts that is long enough to drive them out?

 

mark

[tech71]

3 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

After pulling the cam I noticed the front valves possibly just kissed each other

Very possible they are bent now, they bend pretty easy.

Did you have something under the head to hold it up ? Failure to do so will also result in bent valves.

Hope you are having the head overhauled.

[Son of Marty]

I use a old rocker shaft that I sanded down to fit loosely in the head to drive the old shaft out. That probably doesn't help you but if you measure the shaft diameter you should be able to find a smaller rod that will do.  As for your plug when you get the shaft out look to see if it's covering a oil hole if not I don't see why you cant run it, the price of rocker shafts is quite high now.

Edited August 11, 2021 by Son of Marty

[jimk]

I have used a hardware store drill bit extension that is nearly as long as the head.  Last few inches are easy go.  Is larger diameter than the plug hole and smaller than the shaft od.

[man_mark_7]

1 hour ago, tech71 said:

Very possible they are bent now, they bend pretty easy.

Did you have something under the head to hold it up ? Failure to do so will also result in bent valves.

Hope you are having the head overhauled.

I really think they only just barely kissed. I was watching them pretty closely. I should have seen if I could slide a feeler gauge between them, I think I could have made a .002" pass.

 

The head was resting on the fixture base which keeps the valves from touching anything.

[tech71]

4 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

I really think they only just barely kissed. I was watching them pretty closely.

 

4 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

The head was resting on the fixture base which keeps the valves from touching anything.

Excellent, well done.

Still, might as well check out valve condition with a simple leak check.

Invert the head  and fill the combustion chambers with diesel, solvent, charcoal starter. whatever.

Wait a few hours and check it out.

The faster it leaks out the more leaky the valve

[man_mark_7]

42 minutes ago, tech71 said:

 

Excellent, well done.

Still, might as well check out valve condition with a simple leak check.

Invert the head  and fill the combustion chambers with diesel, solvent, charcoal starter. whatever.

Wait a few hours and check it out.

The faster it leaks out the more leaky the valve

How do you know how much is evaporating vs. draining through the valves? I guess I could lay Saran wrap over the head after filling the chambers. Hmmm, now i need to check if Saran wrap will melt in the presence of charcoal starter fluid.

[tech71]

I said simple remember? Not necessary to overthink this?

I filled them up and went to bed, in the morning I had 1 chamber still full, 1 chamber completely empty and 2 chambers considerably less than full. And quite a bit of diesel on my workbench.

Next time I'll set the head on a drain pan or something?

Machine shop confirmed, bent valves and/or pitting on the seats on 3 cylinders.

Edited August 11, 2021 by tech71