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How to use 6025-1 Cam Removal Tool?


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Thanks to an incredibly generous fellow '02er I have a loaner 6025-1 cam removal tool. That's the good news.

 

Bad news is I can't figure out how to use it! It doesn't seem to line up. If I get one set 4 tabs inserted into intake or exhaust valve rockers, the alignment of the other side seems to be off by about 2-3mm. I have, of course, tried spinning the fixture 180 degrees with no better fit. See pics for illustration of the issue. Ignore the top right rocker, I didn't have the c-clip in place. 

 

I have an E-12 '72 head if that makes any difference.

 

What am I missing? Also, what is the function of the swing down tab on each end of the fixture that are labelled "CS 2000"?

 

Lastly, as one would guess, the stock head bolts are nowhere long enough to cinch the fixture down. I'm therefore assuming I need to find longer bolts with the same diameter & pitch. Can anyone point me to a source for said bolts?

 

thanks in advance

Mark

 

PXL_20210802_211717226.jpg

 

 

PXL_20210802_211850491.jpg

Edited by man_mark_7
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1 hour ago, tech71 said:

I dont see how thats going to work no matter how you turn it. You sure 6025/is the correct tool?

I'm thinking not.

 

I can't find much info, but apparently the 6025-1 and 6025-2 tools should both work. I don't know where the snippet below came from, but this is the only mention I can find. What is the difference between a FI injection vs. SA engine that would make difference in distorting the "Valve Head". What is a Valve Head anyway? Is it another name for a Valve Seat?

 

image.png

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Sorry, completely clueless here, what does the lender have to say? Maybe he can shed some light.

valve head is the tulip part, they are easily bent.

 If you are not careful, you can jam intake and exhaust valves into each other and bend them.  Kinda tricky.

My tool does not look like that and uses the Valve cover studs in the head to crank it down

 

Capture1.jpg

IMG_2956.JPG

IMG_2957.JPG

Edited by tech71
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24 minutes ago, tech71 said:

Sorry, completely clueless here, what does the lender have to say? Maybe he can shed some light.

valve head is the tulip part, they are easily bent.

 If you are not careful, you can jam intake and exhaust valves into each other and bend them.  Kinda tricky.

My tool does not look like that and uses the Valve cover studs in the head to crank it down

 

 

 

 

I'll reach out to lender, but I don't think he ever used it. It is so freshly painted I feel bad using it!

 

I like your style tool, simply because you can use it with the head off and check to make sure the valves aren't clashing. Did you make your own?

 

-mark

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Mark, it's a little hard to tell from the pix, but it kinda looks like your rockers aren't aligned with the cam.

 

As if the rocker shafts aren't quite right.

 

I'm not sure that would explain all of it, but maybe some.

 

Do the rocker relief 'fingers' align with the tops of the valve stems?

 

t

 

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3 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Mark, it's a little hard to tell from the pix, but it kinda looks like your rockers aren't aligned with the cam.

 

As if the rocker shafts aren't quite right.

 

I'm not sure that would explain all of it, but maybe some.

 

Do the rocker relief 'fingers' align with the tops of the valve stems?

 

t

 

Thx & sorry. It's hard to get a good picture with such a wide frame. I should focus in on one cylinder. 

 

The "fingers" (the eccentrics) are all aligned with their respective valve stems - except for the very top right valve (I lost the c-clip in the block for the time being) 😞

 

I can't imagine what is going on, other than that the tool was made wrong? It seems like it was never used, it has a completely fresh coat of paint that is flaking as I slide it into the slots on the rocker arms.

 

PXL_20210803_223107418.jpg

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39 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

Doh - major face palm. I had started to drive one of the rocker shafts out, then decided it was better to first remove the cam to unload all the rocker arms. I guess I now know how far back I need to drive that rocker shaft.....


Problem solved ! 

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Let me shed some light on this.

You only have half, actually less than half of the tool. The "tool" consists of a base with two studs projecting upward that fit into the two holes in the center of the top frame that you have. The other parts you're missing is the block that had the jumbo threaded rod with an integrated ball on one end and a hex head on the other. Plus, the nuts & washers that hold it all together.

So, it goes thus:

1) Base that is held down (bolted) to the table.

2) Head, slid down onto the base, centered using the studs coming up through the center head bolt holes.

3) Frame (which you have) over the studs, fingers located on the eccentrics (eccentrics loosened and rotated to maximum gap).

4) Block slid over studs. The threaded rod is offset to one side (exhaust) so it pushes the exhaust valves more than the intake valves, since the ex valve heads need to be above the int valve heads at max compression or you'll bend valves.

5) Nuts and washers onto the studs, holding this big sandwich together.

The frame by itself is pretty much worthless without the rest of it.

Looking closely at the middle if the frame on the cross bar, you can see the little indentations from the ball of the pressing threaded rod.

I have this tool in my shop, including the M30 frame. It's too rare to send it to anyone to use, but if you're in the LA area and need it, you're welcome to come by and use it.

 

 

Edited by Furry Camel
Fixing autocorrect bs.
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4 hours ago, man_mark_7 said:

Thx & sorry. It's hard to get a good picture with such a wide frame. I should focus in on one cylinder. 

 

The "fingers" (the eccentrics) are all aligned with their respective valve stems - except for the very top right valve (I lost the c-clip in the block for the time being) 😞

 

I can't imagine what is going on, other than that the tool was made wrong? It seems like it was never used, it has a completely fresh coat of paint that is flaking as I slide it into the slots on the rocker arms.

 

PXL_20210803_223107418.jpg

About half of the time, you need to place the frame over the rockers and note if any dont line up. Then you rotate the cam until that rocker is clear of the cam lobe, slide the rocker sideways and remove the circlip. Continue with any other misaligned rockers. Then place the frame over the rockers again, letting it sit on the eccentrics and shift any of the misaligned rockers to let the frame align with its eccentric. It sounds tedious, because it is. But it's necessary.

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5 hours ago, tech71 said:

 

 

 

 

IMG_2957.JPG

Something to point out that is very important. See how the ends of the "fingers" jut inward like a saw tooth on your rig? That's to get maximum contact with the eccentric which is great. BUT if you have HD rockers like the kind from IE, they are missing the little slot inboard of the eccentric like OEM rockers have. That lack of slot will not allow the inward jutting finger to clear the rocker body and will bind as the rocker moves downward when pressed. So, that means you either have to grind off the sharp angle of the fingers so it is perpendicular instead of angled to use it with HD rockers (it will now work with both OE and HD), or go a different route like driving out the shafts before the cam comes out.

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14 hours ago, Furry Camel said:

Let me shed some light on this.

You only have half, actually less than half of the tool. The "tool" consists of a base with two studs projecting upward that fit into the two holes in the center of the top frame that you have. The other parts you're missing is the block that had the jumbo threaded rod with an integrated ball on one end and a hex head on the other. Plus, the nuts & washers that hold it all together.

So, it goes thus:

1) Base that is held down (bolted) to the table.

2) Head, slid down onto the base, centered using the studs coming up through the center head bolt holes.

3) Frame (which you have) over the studs, fingers located on the eccentrics (eccentrics loosened and rotated to maximum gap).

4) Block slid over studs. The threaded rod is offset to one side (exhaust) so it pushes the exhaust valves more than the intake valves, since the ex valve heads need to be above the int valve heads at max compression or you'll bend valves.

5) Nuts and washers onto the studs, holding this big sandwich together.

The frame by itself is pretty much worthless without the rest of it.

Looking closely at the middle if the frame on the cross bar, you can see the little indentations from the ball of the pressing threaded rod.

I have this tool in my shop, including the M30 frame. It's too rare to send it to anyone to use, but if you're in the LA area and need it, you're welcome to come by and use it.

 

 

Furry Camel - You are awesome!!! Thank you for the details. Any chance you could take a pic or two? 

 

I was wondering what those indents were on the cross bar - makes total sense now.

 

I can't find any "manual" for the 6025-1 tool anywhere. Would there have been a factory publication describing it? Do you know what the two swingy tabs on either end of the fixture which are stamped "CS 2000" are used for?

 

Many thanks!

Mark

 

 

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