Electric upgrade advice

[Pdxguy]

xr4tic and ohgodno, do you have wiring diagrams of your set up you would consider sharing? 

 

PaulTWinterton- Those LED lights look great, but dang you are right about expensive and I didn't even figure in the cost of replacement turn switches that trip the relay for the lights. 

 

Thanks all,

Dennis

[xr4tic]

2 hours ago, SteadFast said:

Where did you get your battery tray/mount from?

 

I made it, welded up some angle iron and bolted it in.  The tray weighs more than the battery lol.  Aluminum would have been better, but I haven't attempted to weld that yet.

 

[xr4tic]

2 hours ago, Pdxguy said:

xr4tic and ohgodno, do you have wiring diagrams of your set up you would consider sharing? 

 

PaulTWinterton- Those LED lights look great, but dang you are right about expensive and I didn't even figure in the cost of replacement turn switches that trip the relay for the lights. 

 

Thanks all,

Dennis

 

I've got scribbles/notes jotted down on various pieces of paper strewn about.  I'll see what I can gather up.

[Pdxguy]

22 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

 

The very best taillight solution is 

classicautoleds.com 

 

Pricey but AWESOME.

 

Front corners, look at Sirius leds.  Double the output of all competitors. 

Pricey is right, dang. And that is without the new blinkers that respond to less voltage. Have to check the couch for coins

 

xr4tic and ohgodno, do you have wiring diagrams of the work you did you might share?

 

Thanks, 

Dennis

[SydneyTii]

6 hours ago, xr4tic said:

 

I made it, welded up some angle iron and bolted it in.  The tray weighs more than the battery lol.  Aluminum would have been better, but I haven't attempted to weld that yet.

 

Great tray, mine comes out, but it’s a pain on a Tii, this would be better, need to relocate still in mine, worse place for a Tii battery!

still like the TEP setup, I know some don’t  I can’t see the harm in drilling the shock mounts, the tube if you will, passes right through that section, and as long as it’s done well and rust sealed is a good option if you can’t get an under seat going like me.

Not worried about weight it’s a nearly 50 year old road car?

 

Edited May 6, 2021 by SydneyTii

[ohgodno]

8 hours ago, Pdxguy said:

xr4tic and ohgodno, do you have wiring diagrams of your set up you would consider sharing? 

 

PaulTWinterton- Those LED lights look great, but dang you are right about expensive and I didn't even figure in the cost of replacement turn switches that trip the relay for the lights. 

 

Thanks all,

Dennis

 

Once all my wiring is complete I will gladly create and share the diagram for use with the kit I used - I think I'll need to keep it in the car at all times.

 

[Son of Marty]

The problem with lithium batterys under the hood is keeping it with in it's rated temperature range, lithium batterys that get to hot burn as we all know, from the antigravity users sheet.

 

   in ambient temperatures between -–10°C to 60°C (–4°F to 140°F). Do not operate outside of temperature ranges. Do not jump start a frozen battery. Do not charge ...

[SydneyTii]

24 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

. Do not charge 

Oh I didn’t realise that, how does this work then?

[Son of Marty]

If the battery is to cold it can't chemically convert the charge into stored energy which damages the chemical make up so that it will charge much less or not at all when returned to normal temps, if it's overheated it will start a run away chemical reaction until it catches fire, think burning cel phones or Boeing aircraft       

Edited May 7, 2021 by Son of Marty

[Pdxguy]

On 5/1/2021 at 8:08 PM, Mike Self said:

And since you're starting with a pretty clean electrical system slate, branch your circuits more than the original (6 fuse) setup so that fewer items are on a single fused circuit. 

Any specific suggestions on what to branch off?

 

Thanks,

Dennis