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Oil pan sealant placement


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I’m about to put my oil pan back on (subframe out) with new gasket and was curious of previous use of sealant on the old gasket. It’s on the ends only but when I’ve read on previous threads of “ put a dab in the corners “‘I thought they meant sealant on gasket to engine side. This has sealant that’s between pan and the gasket and curious if it makes a difference. The transitions feel pretty smooth so wondering if I’m missing something.  Maybe I’m over thinking it...I have permatex ultra black to use.

 

second pic is gasket flipped to show sealant between pan and gasket. 
 

thanks,

 

baron

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The factory just used a sealant where the front cover gaskets and the rear seal holder gasket meet the pan rail on the engine side. To make sure your pan is leak free you'll need to dimple the oil pan bolt holes because the pan is so soft the bolts tend to dent the pan toward the block to fix this you'll need a small ball peen hammer and another hammer to tap the first with, hold the pan flange on the edge of your bench using your beer belly with the sump hanging free, place the small hammer in the bolt hole and tap it with the other hammer until the bolt hole is dimpled slightly down work your way around the pan and your good go slow with the hammering the pan is way soft. Then follow the torque specs for the pan bolts and you should be done.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I usually like to put a thin coat of RTV on the whole gasket, both sides. I don't like leaks and RTV doesn't take that long to clean up. Didn't do this on the last oil pan gasket and guess what it's doing....

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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My recommendation is to put a thin layer of RTV on oil pan only then lay the gasket. Add small amount RTV on the gasket where it meets timing cover in front and in rear where crank flange meets oil pan gasket. Hand tighten bolts, wait one hour and then tighten bolts in zig zag manner to 9-11Nm. That how I did it about 6-7 years ago and there is no leaks whatsoever.

 

Screen Shot 2020-05-20 at 8.33.35 AM.png

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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I've used this in the past on notoriously hard to seal areas (translation:  Anything on a British car...).    

 

It's pretty effective at sealing mating surfaces that are damaged/dinged/dented etc.  If you choose to use it, keep in mind that your oil pan will be a bit of a challenge to remove next time.  People either love it or hate it, but it does work.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/3DPU3?gclid=CjwKCAjwqpP2BRBTEiwAfpiD-29T1wy8Y0aJplt0Ig2X0YLJp2d_Y4HZISIrmwGwRe8Hxgk31KYADBoC6vMQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwqpP2BRBTEiwAfpiD-29T1wy8Y0aJplt0Ig2X0YLJp2d_Y4HZISIrmwGwRe8Hxgk31KYADBoC6vMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915640!!!g!439260813543!

3DPU3_AS01.jfif

Edited by Tdh
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I always had leaks on my oil pan. i redid the seal multiple times and always ended up with leaks near the timing cover. In my opinion, rtv on both sides never hurt!

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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2 hours ago, coloincaalpine said:

Are you reusing a pan gasket?   IMHO as a pro engine builder, you're inviting oil leaks,   bad idea.    That's just me though.

dq

No, I’m not reusing. I have a new paper gasket ready to go. I’ve seen the gaskacinch come up in a few threads. So apply a thin layer to both sides then ultra black in the corners?  Sounds like a plan 

 

thanks for all the other comments as well

 

baron

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Hylomar never sets, so the seal never lets loose.

And there is no need for dynamite to get the joint apart later.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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