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floatinghead

Oil pan sealant placement

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I’m about to put my oil pan back on (subframe out) with new gasket and was curious of previous use of sealant on the old gasket. It’s on the ends only but when I’ve read on previous threads of “ put a dab in the corners “‘I thought they meant sealant on gasket to engine side. This has sealant that’s between pan and the gasket and curious if it makes a difference. The transitions feel pretty smooth so wondering if I’m missing something.  Maybe I’m over thinking it...I have permatex ultra black to use.

 

second pic is gasket flipped to show sealant between pan and gasket. 
 

thanks,

 

baron

355EA48D-F35B-4B8D-9339-10D115E2610E.jpeg

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The factory just used a sealant where the front cover gaskets and the rear seal holder gasket meet the pan rail on the engine side. To make sure your pan is leak free you'll need to dimple the oil pan bolt holes because the pan is so soft the bolts tend to dent the pan toward the block to fix this you'll need a small ball peen hammer and another hammer to tap the first with, hold the pan flange on the edge of your bench using your beer belly with the sump hanging free, place the small hammer in the bolt hole and tap it with the other hammer until the bolt hole is dimpled slightly down work your way around the pan and your good go slow with the hammering the pan is way soft. Then follow the torque specs for the pan bolts and you should be done.

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Thanks for the info and it looks like I can move ahead as i had planned.  I actually picked up a ball pean hammer and flattened out the bolt holes the other day after cleaning it up real nice.  Now on to assembly!

 

baron 

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I usually like to put a thin coat of RTV on the whole gasket, both sides. I don't like leaks and RTV doesn't take that long to clean up. Didn't do this on the last oil pan gasket and guess what it's doing....

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My recommendation is to put a thin layer of RTV on oil pan only then lay the gasket. Add small amount RTV on the gasket where it meets timing cover in front and in rear where crank flange meets oil pan gasket. Hand tighten bolts, wait one hour and then tighten bolts in zig zag manner to 9-11Nm. That how I did it about 6-7 years ago and there is no leaks whatsoever.

 

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Are you reusing a pan gasket?   IMHO as a pro engine builder, you're inviting oil leaks,   bad idea.    That's just me though.

dq

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(edited)

I've used this in the past on notoriously hard to seal areas (translation:  Anything on a British car...).    

 

It's pretty effective at sealing mating surfaces that are damaged/dinged/dented etc.  If you choose to use it, keep in mind that your oil pan will be a bit of a challenge to remove next time.  People either love it or hate it, but it does work.

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/3DPU3?gclid=CjwKCAjwqpP2BRBTEiwAfpiD-29T1wy8Y0aJplt0Ig2X0YLJp2d_Y4HZISIrmwGwRe8Hxgk31KYADBoC6vMQAvD_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=CjwKCAjwqpP2BRBTEiwAfpiD-29T1wy8Y0aJplt0Ig2X0YLJp2d_Y4HZISIrmwGwRe8Hxgk31KYADBoC6vMQAvD_BwE:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!264955915640!!!g!439260813543!

3DPU3_AS01.jfif

Edited by Tdh

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I always had leaks on my oil pan. i redid the seal multiple times and always ended up with leaks near the timing cover. In my opinion, rtv on both sides never hurt!

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This is another alternative on the gasket. I use it in conjunction with ultra-black or grey, in the corners.Never any leak issues.

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2 hours ago, coloincaalpine said:

Are you reusing a pan gasket?   IMHO as a pro engine builder, you're inviting oil leaks,   bad idea.    That's just me though.

dq

No, I’m not reusing. I have a new paper gasket ready to go. I’ve seen the gaskacinch come up in a few threads. So apply a thin layer to both sides then ultra black in the corners?  Sounds like a plan 

 

thanks for all the other comments as well

 

baron

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(edited)

Hylomar never sets, so the seal never lets loose.

And there is no need for dynamite to get the joint apart later.

Edited by jimk

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floatinghead,

    Yes, Apply to both surfaces to be mated,wait several minutes then, put them together. i.e.:  apply to one side of the gasket and the pan,put those together then the other side of the gasket and the block and put those together.

Good Luck, glad to see you're using a new gasket

-dq

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12 minutes ago, jimk said:

Hylomar never sets, so the seal never lets loose.

And there is no need for dynamite to get the joint apart later.

 

I've also heard people use Permatex High Tack.  is that similar to Hylomar?  Or Yamabond?

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