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Fjord door card rehab questions


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Working on Fjord’s doors.  Vibration dampening and sound reduction done, updated door stops and dome light switch installed, door latches and locks lubed with Liquid Wrench Lock & Hinge Dry Lube (appears to be an updated Teflon material), rattle-proofing grommets installed at lock and latch bars.  Now to the soft stuff: the dreaded door cards.  The issue? They’re not that bad.  Definitely worth saving.  BUT.... the lower corners have picked up enough water over the years that they have delaminated.  You can riffle them between thumb and fingers like the pages of a phone book.     But they’re intact, each sheet retains its individual integrity, and I think they can be relaminated and stiffened up, if I can find the right material(s) and technique (only get one shot, I suspect).  I have reviewed all the threads I can find on door cards, including Simeon’s helpful blog, but this “relamination” doesn’t appear to be covered in any of them.  Needless to add, I am open to ideas from the more experienced. 

BF336A2A-A0EA-45F5-B7B9-F48F4591B81B.jpeg

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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About any water resistant glue and clamping will relaminate  the corners, but It will still show somewhat because the paper laminates themselves have swelled up from the water and won't return to the normal thickness, so there will always be a bit of a bulge in the corners. It's not a lot but it depends on how picky you are and replacement backing boards are available.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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I have recently finished putting together my Fjord. What I have done with door cards for this and a previous '02 is to use the paper door card as a template for making new ones. The material that I used was very thin and cheap wood paneling. Here are pics. 

 

I replaced the batting with very thin polyester batting from a local fabric store. Then I used spray rubber cement, very lightly on the new door card, placed the batting on it, then cut to fit, including the holes.

 

Here are a few words of caution. If the wood is not thin enough, the door clips won't fit in the holes. If you don't cut the new panels close enough, the doors won't close when the panels are installed. I'm sure you know how I learned these points.

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Looks good! What did you end up using as a glue? I was thinking of Fastbond 2 h20 proof. I have the same deal on the corners of a set of black cards I'm going to swap out of my car. As a carpenter I thought of making new wood ones as shown above.  I even have the materials in my shop.  But the re-lam looks like a good alternative as I'm not going to keep them after I swap them out for Saddle/Tobacco, I just want them to be good for the next owner who gets them.

1973 2002

1985 R100RS

1987 635csi

2002 Boxster S

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Thanks for the query.  To my surprise, the text I intended to post with these photos did not post.  To summarize, I used two techniques and sets of materials.  To address the floppy edges, I painted each leaf with Titebond II waterproof wood glue, reaching as far into the folds as I could push the glue.  Like painting each page of the phone book of a small town.  Then as you see in the photo, pressed together with clamped plywood strips faced with plastic sheets (you don’t want the plywood to bond to the cardboard).  To reinforce the clip holes, I first adhered squares of fiberglass sheetrock tape across the holes, then slathered JB-Weld onto that surface, poking it into the walls of the hole and being careful not to build up any surfaces (there is not much tolerance for the clips to fit).

 

I was a little disappointed that the Titebond didn’t dry any stiffer, but was happy with the way it compressed to yield a board no thicker than the original, and it’s stiff enough and as you see, ramrod straight. I intend to paint the rest of the cardboard either with Titebond or with some other waterproof coating to enhance water resistance.  Thompson’s waterseal does not dry adequately, so still looking for alternatives there.  I have one more door to do, so if you undertake this job please let me know what you use!

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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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FYI: Marine grade precut door cards are available from Aardvarc Racing, http://www.2002parts.com/bmw/door-panel-kit.html

 

Use 3M 08090 Super Yellow Trim Adhesive. Available at your local autoparts store.

 

 

 

 

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Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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Andrew, do you still like the same solution you used for the aluminum plastic trim?  That’s next.

 

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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I originally used the Mylar form Aarvarc too. Don't recommend that, it flattens out after 4-5 days. Others have recommended using contact cement or super glue to get it to hold the radius.

 

There's another Door Card Rehab thread where Simon masked and painted the strips with silver or "chrome" paint. That looked pretty good.

 

Another thread Danco used real aluminum tape and polished it to almost mirror like finish. This will be my approach for the next set I do.

 

Yet another one used chrome vinyl car wrap and a hair dryer with great success. 

Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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A plethora of choices.  I have studied a couple of those threads; I get pretty bogged down trying to pick the right solution to these “soft” issues.  No “right” answer, and you get one shot — unless, like Danco, you have a warehouse full of old door panels! 

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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https://www.alsacorp.com/alsa_film/economy_films/chrome.html

 

What about trying one of the car wrap films.  I've never done anything small like the door panel trim on a 2002, but I've wrapped a couple of cars.  The stuff stretches nicely, and you can shrink out wrinkles with a heat gun.  Only catch is that I wouldn't want to try this unless the trim had been removed from the vinyl.  

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It looks like Teelinger had good results with a chrome vinyl adhesive from Amazon. His awesome restoration blog has a link in it to the product, and great step by step photos. His looked really good, and his 2002 "Ernie" came out freakin beautiful. I'm probably going to try it.

 

 

 

I'm also curious what Danko used to polish his Aluminum tape. I don't remember seeing what it was, but I my have just missed it.  I have a bunch of rolls of it and it is super sticky so adhesion would not be a problem. I kinda like the idea of having a metal based deal on it. So lots of options out there....

 

1973 2002

1985 R100RS

1987 635csi

2002 Boxster S

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