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Deneb aka Doc Fjord

Solex
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    Dayton, Ohio

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  1. Still looking for 2, but need one (and was going to save one as a spare). Anyone got a source?
  2. '75 2002, stock ignition system (no ad-ons). Only deviation from stock is a Bosch blue coil. What's been checked: points, plugs, cap, rotor, condenser and plug wires are new Point gap is correct at .016 coil was tested for resistance and is within specs +12 volts at the coil's low tension terminal tried a second Bosch (black) coil; no change Symptoms: no spark at all, using a new spark plug connected to #1 plug wire and resting on the valve cover Questions: Should I be using the OEM resistance wire to power the coil or is that diminishing the voltage at the (blue) coil since it has built-in resistance? And if that's the case, where do I bypass the resistance wire (i.e. where does it start so I can cut into the harness and replace it with a regular wire) There's a bundle of three wires inside a blue sheath. I know the two black wires go on the negative coil (#1) terminal--one to the distributor, the other to the tach, and the third clear insulated resistance wire goes to the positive coil terminal (#15). Where does the other black wire go? It's by itself in a second, smaller blue sheath and AFAIK was connected to the positive #15 terminal. Help! Trying to have a running car in time for this weekend's Spring Drive in northern KY. Dene
  3. I worked on my dashboard in April 2019. The dashboard was still in the car, but the windshield was removed. 1) I started by using my Dremel tool for smaller cracks and a utility knife for larger cracks to open them up for the next step. 2) Then I used Polyvance padded dashboard filler, allowing them to stand proud. 3) Sanding was the third step, not just on the now-filled cracks, but the entire dashboard. 4) I cut a pattern for the top of the dashboard out of paper and used it to cut finely-woven, fiberglass veil cloth. 5) After mixing up polyester resin and with a brush, applied it to the dashboard, then laid the fiberglass on top, smoothing it out and putting a thin layer of resin on top to make sure the fiberglass was properly wetted. 6) Sand and then recoat with resin until you have a smooth finish. Repeat as many times as necessary to remove all ridges and valleys. 7) Spray on a primer. Lightly sand and repeat any previous steps until you are satisfied with the finish. 8) I finished the project with numerous light coats of flat back spray paint. Now, in December 2020, the only problem area is along the metal substrate that is mid dash along, on American cars, the seat belt display and goes from the foremost point of the dash to the leading edge of the dash. That area of eh dash developed a crack after last winter. I repaired it using a much heavier patch of fiberglass, repeating the steps of sanding and reapplying layers of resin, then primer and flat black. This winter, there is a much smaller crack developing along the leading edge of the dash and heading back about one inch, tracing the path of the metal substrate. Otherwise, the dash still looks very good. Good luck with your project.
  4. Good to know, Andrew. Thanks for the info about precut door cards.
  5. I have recently finished putting together my Fjord. What I have done with door cards for this and a previous '02 is to use the paper door card as a template for making new ones. The material that I used was very thin and cheap wood paneling. Here are pics. I replaced the batting with very thin polyester batting from a local fabric store. Then I used spray rubber cement, very lightly on the new door card, placed the batting on it, then cut to fit, including the holes. Here are a few words of caution. If the wood is not thin enough, the door clips won't fit in the holes. If you don't cut the new panels close enough, the doors won't close when the panels are installed. I'm sure you know how I learned these points.
  6. I hope you've followed Mike Self's story of Doc Fjord in the Roundel over the past 4 years. years. Here are the before and after pics.
  7. WTB 2 mirror base plates (aka mirror holders, hold downs) BMW part 51-16-1-832-567 and 2 cage nuts
  8. Looking for a mirror holder (BMW part number 51-16-1-832-567) and 2 cage nuts. Please PM if you have these,
  9. Does anyone have the part numbers for the 2 squeegees that are attached to the backside of the metal outer weather strip, one goes against the window and the other against the vent. Thanks for the heads up about the part number and sources for the outer strip? I don't believe that they are available in the US, but hope they might be at W&N.
  10. Been having a terrible time installing a newly purchased set of URO door gaskets. After well over an hour's work we were able to get the vertical section on the B pillar to stay in place, but haven't been able to fit the section that runs up the A pillar and across the roof to stay in place. The OEM gasket was not glued and worked just fine for 40 some years,,, but the new gasket simply won't wedge in between the aluminum lip and the pinch welt--the space between the lip and the pinch welt is simply too wide to allow the rubber to stay in place. What are we doing wrong? Do we need glue? Frustrated minds want to know... Doc Fjord
  11. I believe the part numbers are: SUPPORT LEFT 41211826411 SUPPORT RIGHT 41211826412 Have you tried contacting Restoration Design? http://www.restoration-design.com/store/category/BMW While they don't have the parts listed, they are fabricating lots of parts and may be able to help out. Lots of us have seen that part severely rusted.
  12. Thanks to all. I'm going to give up replacing the c-pillar fabric with headliner material. It makes sense that new headliner material would not match my 42 y.o. headliner. I've got some good choices - black vinyl, blue to match the package shelf, or even nylon fabric that is UV protected. The topic for me is breathing life into Doc Fjord - see Mike Self's articles that mention this project.
  13. Does anyone know a source for matching headliner fabric? I just need to replace the small pieces on the C pillars.
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