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Weber 32/36 issues


ingramlee

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Hi Folks, 

 

I recently... this past weekend to be exact, installed a new Weber 32/36 DGV 5A from Pierce Manifolds Inc..  I have two problems that I haven't been able to solve. The first problem I believe has to do with proper manual choke setting. Question: When I pull the choke all the way out are the choke flaps suppose to close completely or should there be a slight air gap? I cannot get the car to start and continue to run unless I hold the accelerator at about 1200 rpm for about 2 minutes. After about 2 minutes I can push in the choke and the car will idle at about 800-900 rpm then runs fine after that. The second issue I've noticed is 2nd gear is very sluggish, meaning it doesn't accelerate like it did before the new carb, all other gears accelerate just fine. For the record, I did not transfer any of the old jets to the new carb, Should I? I simply installed it straight from the box. The choke starting problem only happens over night or after the car has sat for several hours but the 2nd sluggish is constant. I feel myself starting to ramble so I'll stop now. Any help is appreciated.

 

Thanks...

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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There should be a fast idle cam that raises the rpm when the choke is engaged.  There is a little screw to adjust the idle speed, that hits that cam.  Try turning that screw in a bit.

 

I would definitely look inside the new one and write down the numbers on the jets/air correctors and emulsion tubes.  I would also check to see that the float is set for 40mm if it is brass, or 35mm if it is plastic.

(at least I think those are the numbers... if not someone will hopefully correct me)

 

Open up your old carb too and write the jet sizes down, so you will know what you have to work with.

 

Search will bring up the most common jetting prescriptions and you can compare what you have to them.

c.d.eisel's is the one I use, but I did lean it out a bit, once I had the AFR gauge to make an informed decision.

Tom

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49 minutes ago, flagoworld said:

You got a manual choke? There isn’t an adjustment screw. There is an S shaped linkage attaching the choke to the throttle. Bend it tighter to increase fast idle speed.

+1  I learned this on both Webers that I fitted to my 73--the first one in 1979/80 and the second a few years ago.  In both cases the "fast idle" wasn't, and it would stall when cold.  I had to bend the linkage as above to jump the idle.  It now idles at over 2k when cold and the choke knob is all the way out--necessary for our cold winters--and it doesn't stall any more. 

 

And of course as you push the choke knob in, the idle speed decreases simultaneously until you're down to your normal idle speed with the knob all the way in.  that idle speed is adjusted with the screw that bears on the accelerator linkage.

 

mike  

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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4 hours ago, flagoworld said:

You got a manual choke? There isn’t an adjustment screw. There is an S shaped linkage attaching the choke to the throttle. Bend it tighter to increase fast idle speed.

Yes its a manual choke. I will fiddle with the S shaped linkage.

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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My electric choke with proper fast idle set up spins at about 2K when I start and I kick it down after about 60s and it idles OK then. So that seems to be a good place to get the manual linkage set to.

 

Assuming your valves are set well and timing has not changed (and correct :)) and the car ran fine before the new carb, I would tinker with the mix screw on the carb following the Weber instructions that came in your box. If none did, I can take a snap of mine and send. As I have said before, when I set up my new 32/36 this spring, I was quite amazed at how minor tweaks to the mix affected the punch/acceleration.. off a bit and it road nice... sweet spot and it jumped in all 4 gears :)

 

Randy

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1975 - 2366762 Born 7/75

See the whole restoration at:

http://www.rwwbmw2002.shutterfly.com

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Randy,

 

My carb did come with instructions that I followed. I will try following them again. The car ran really well before the new Weber. The only problem I had was the mixture screw was stuck and would no longer turn. 

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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I assume you mean the mixture screw on the old carb :)

 

Also, when I ordered new carb recently from Pierce competitor (Carbs Unlimited), they offered for a small fee to jet it as needed. I gave them the CD jetting prescription that Mint referred to and I assume they did it (should really open it one day and make sure - ha ha ).

 

But with that as a baseline and following the 32/36 setup instructions, I was able to get things dialed in. If you just bought a 32/36 with no jetting done, not sure what the default is and that could be part of the issue.Maybe a call to Pierce will give you that answer. Maybe they knew it was for a 2002 and they jet accordingly, but I think that is a long shot??

 

I am no expert by far, but carbs have jets and other parts pieces for idle, low RPM, high RPM etc, and a default set of jets might give you good behavior at one time, but bad behavior at another set of conditions. 

 

Sorry, totally vague but maybe best next step if mix tweaking does not help is to pop the top and figure out the jets. 

 

Tons to read and educate/confuse you on the FAQ on this topic :)

 

Randy 

 

 

 

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1975 - 2366762 Born 7/75

See the whole restoration at:

http://www.rwwbmw2002.shutterfly.com

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Randy,

 

I did have the option of having them jet the carb for a fee. I couldnt decide on Carl vs CD jetting so I decided to just go with how it came from Pierce. Maybe not a good choice on my part. The funny thing is, outside of it being a little sluggish in 2nd gear it runs really well once it finally starts and warms up from the initial choke issue so I don't think its far off at all.  I think what i'm going to do is open it up and check the jets and either install the jets from the old unit or buy new ones based on either CD or Carl's prescription.

 

Walter

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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