E21 Brake master cylinder swap

[michaelbend]

Hello guys.  Did someone swapped in a e21 master cylinder on a E10?  Need some advice here.
I did swap a 79' E21 brake master cyliinder on my '74 1602. 
I´m having trouble when riding the car.   Pedal brakes start to get stiff after a while... 

I have read somewhere there is a difference in MC rod sizes ?  Any adivice would be appreciated...  Thank you!

[AceAndrew]

I don't know what an E10 is, but a single-line E21 brake master cylinder will bolt directly to the 2002 or 2002tii booster.  The reason why is to clean up the brake lines if you are switching from a stock dual-line system to a single-line system (typically IE/Wilwood).  Rod lengths are the same between the 2002/2002tii/E21 BMC's.

[michaelbend]

Thank you for your advice AceAndrew!  (E10 is the chasis code for all ´02s)

My car is a 74 1602, which have a smaller engine and smaller rear brakes.    My rear brake drums are 200mm, not 230mm or 250mm found on later 2002s....

 

Brake master cylinder bolts directly.  Everything works fine for a while, but brakes gets stiff.

Anyway.. back to try again..... thank you!

[jireland2002]

It would help if you gave us more info.  It sounds like the pads are not retracting.  Probably do to the linkage fro the peddle to the booster.

[andyleonard]

13 minutes ago, jireland2002 said:

It would help if you gave us more info.  It sounds like the pads are not retracting.  Probably do to the linkage fro the peddle to the booster.

+1  If every time you push the brakes you add more pressure and it can't return, eventually the brakes will lock. There MUST be a little free play in the MC rod so the MC piston inside the cylinder can return fully to it's "bleed back" position. Check your linkage and maybe yank back on the brake pedal to make sure there isn't something in the floor/carpets/linkage binding it.

 

If you have the wrong rod or if something is mechanically preventing the MC from full return, pressure will build, locking the brakes. If this happens you can release pressure at the calipers/cylinders by opening the bleeders.

[AceAndrew]

38 minutes ago, michaelbend said:

Thank you for your advice AceAndrew!  (E10 is the chasis code for all ´02s)

 

 

 

No worries.  The code "E10" is not the 2002 chassis reference code, hence my comment.  When someone mentions it, its usually indicative they are fairly new to the community (nothing wrong with that).

 

And +1 to Jeff/Andy's comments.  Be interesting to see what you find.

[TobyB]

If you pull off the master, you just might find what looks like an acorn nut

sticking out of the end of the booster a bit, acting as the point of the pushrod.

If so, that's the adjustment for the travel, and you can shorten it just a bit so that the bleed port on

the master's uncovered.

 

It's more likely your pedal linkage is binding, but the result's the same- brakes that hydraulically lock on as they heat.

 

+1: E10 is not the 2002 chassis code.  E codes started a few years after 2002 production began...

 

t

 

[michaelbend]

 

Well.  Changed almost everything in rear brakes.  New drums, new cylinders, new pipes, new shoes, new hoses.  I did the e21 MC upgrade assuming it was a direct fit.  I hope it is....  Dont know what could be wrong...

 

Quote

6 hours ago, jireland2002 said:

It would help if you gave us more info.  It sounds like the pads are not retracting.  Probably do to the linkage fro the peddle to the booster.

 

 

[michaelbend]

6 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

 

 

No worries.  The code "E10" is not the 2002 chassis reference code, hence my comment.  When someone mentions it, its usually indicative they are fairly new to the community (nothing wrong with that).

 

And +1 to Jeff/Andy's comments.  Be interesting to see what you find.

Yes... Im new here... thank you all you guys for helping...

[michaelbend]

6 hours ago, andyleonard said:

+1  If every time you push the brakes you add more pressure and it can't return, eventually the brakes will lock. There MUST be a little free play in the MC rod so the MC piston inside the cylinder can return fully to it's "bleed back" position. Check your linkage and maybe yank back on the brake pedal to make sure there isn't something in the floor/carpets/linkage binding it.

 

If you have the wrong rod or if something is mechanically preventing the MC from full return, pressure will build, locking the brakes. If this happens you can release pressure at the calipers/cylinders by opening the bleeders.

Thank you so much... will try again!!

[michaelbend]

On 2/13/2018 at 5:59 PM, TobyB said:

If you pull off the master, you just might find what looks like an acorn nut

sticking out of the end of the booster a bit, acting as the point of the pushrod.

If so, that's the adjustment for the travel, and you can shorten it just a bit so that the bleed port on

the master's uncovered.

 

It's more likely your pedal linkage is binding, but the result's the same- brakes that hydraulically lock on as they heat.

 

+1: E10 is not the 2002 chassis code.  E codes started a few years after 2002 production began...

 

t

 

 

On 2/13/2018 at 12:13 PM, AceAndrew said:

 

 

No worries.  The code "E10" is not the 2002 chassis reference code, hence my comment.  When someone mentions it, its usually indicative they are fairly new to the community (nothing wrong with that).

 

And +1 to Jeff/Andy's comments.  Be interesting to see what you find.

 

On 2/13/2018 at 11:55 AM, andyleonard said:

+1  If every time you push the brakes you add more pressure and it can't return, eventually the brakes will lock. There MUST be a little free play in the MC rod so the MC piston inside the cylinder can return fully to it's "bleed back" position. Check your linkage and maybe yank back on the brake pedal to make sure there isn't something in the floor/carpets/linkage binding it.

 

If you have the wrong rod or if something is mechanically preventing the MC from full return, pressure will build, locking the brakes. If this happens you can release pressure at the calipers/cylinders by opening the bleeders.

 

On 2/13/2018 at 11:34 AM, jireland2002 said:

It would help if you gave us more info.  It sounds like the pads are not retracting.  Probably do to the linkage fro the peddle to the booster.

 

 

UPDATE:  Everything´s fine now!  It was the pedal linkage and some pump/booster adjustment.  Thank you guys!!